No the settings are all the same. Idk it was weird. Everything looks plugged in. I guess I'll have to check in the morning.

 

The only thing I can think of is check your wiring...make sure you didn't get something fused somewhere.

 

check the wires that connect to the back of the sub then back to the amp. If you can take a diff sub and try it with where your current sub is. that way you can isolate if its the actual sub or the wiring. make sure there is no cuts or breaks in the wires that could be shorting it out. also some amps have a protection mode where they stop putting out power, so in theory it doesn't blow a speaker out. so you could have a faulty amp to or at least make sure its getting power from the truck in the first place. last thing i would check is the connections on the back of the deck if its not getting signal from the deck it will never work.

 

when u give it gas it backfires,spits,n sputters.i have changed the plugs wires cap roter dist. coil crank sensor fuel filter.it dosent have a crossed wire and it was set tdc b4 new dist.was put in.what can i do to fix this problem

 

Thanks everyone for the help. I found a power wire loose.

 

Did you check the fuel pump? it could be on its way out...or at least the fuel pressure if its not getting enough gas it will not run right no matter what you do.

 

I have a bad vacuum line i know this cause that's what the check engine is saying and i know its not the gas cap cause i replaced that with a bran new one from the dealer.
So now my problem is i dont have days to waste finding and trying differnt lines any suggestions to find quickly which one is bad? or maybe just a diagram of all the lines i don't know how expensive they are maybe i should just do them all in one shot and be done.

 

New to this site sorry if this is the wrong thread!

I have a 2000 Cherokee Sport, 4L with a bad rear seal. I have the starter out the pan unbolted but can't get enough clearance to get it out. Is the only answer to unbolt the motor mounts and lift the engine? If so what else should i unbolt?

Thanks for all your help,

RAD

 

You could. Not having to do this yet; I would carefully jack the unibody up. Extending the suspension travel might give the room needed to wiggle it out. Basically creating distance between the pan and the differential. You might have to raise both sides simultaniously. Or jack the motor up.

 

Unfortunately without the motor being able to hold @ idle there is noo quick way. If u are sure its a vac line... u got to go through all of them. Inspect them closely. Ur jeep doesn't give a crap if u don't have time. U have to make the time to do it right and patiently. Sorry bro.what code # is being thrown?

 

there's a good chance it's in your switch, man. If i hold mine, like to change lanes, but without completely turning it on, mine will stay solid. But, if i move the lever all the way, until it clicks, both work fine. so, i'd say to check your switch, in the column.. you'll be able to see a dark mark against the plastic and contact points, if it's burned out. i know that's what my problem is.. just haven't found a cheap replacement switch yet.

 

If my water pump pully is whining dose that mean its going out ?

 

It means the bearings are soon going out. Once that happens water will no longer be pumped. That doesn't end well.

 

Are there any magazines strictly for Jeep Cherokee? Like a builders magazine or anything?

 

Good evening guys-

Have an 86 2.5 4wd and about a year ago the vacuum actuator stopped shifting into 4wd. don't need the front axle engaged that much so I have been pulling the actuator off whenever I did need it and engaging manually. It's a pain in the butt so I did a search here and found many folks have changed the split axle for a solid one.

Sounds like the best solution but I wonder what the downside is to doing this. Any suggestions?