Ralph77

So in my travels I came across what I believe are both new driver's and passenger side axles. Complete. Mopars ones. $150. The part #'s seem to be the ones for my Jeep. '00 XJ with a non ABS Dana 30. Guessing I have the LP one. So assuming it is $150 for both am I crazy or is that crazy cheap? Would the Spicer Ujoint for my Jeep be the 5-760X?

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/TWR5760X

I believe that to be a Spicer one. Can probably buy those for $20 each. To the best of my knowledge my Ujoints are fine but at some point might go in there and do a little preventive maintenance. Almost wondering if I should grab those shafts if I am right about it being both for $150. Any thoughts?

motopunks

Cool, yeah. Doing my reading I have learned that brake fluid loves moisture and when it (hydraulic line) gets hot...trouble ensues. So I'm thinking a good flush of the system might do the trick. There's no bleed valve and it's the master/slave assy; so I have to take it out, to the bench and flush/re-bleed it. I could do it on the truck, but, it's almost easier to do it at the bench, plus I can give it a good inspection and clean out. Hopefully that save me a few bucks.

wizardpc

Anybody heard from CCKen lately?

I was thinking about him the other day and how I hadn't seen him in a while. Looks like he hasn't logged on to this forum since June. I also checked a couple of other forums and same thing. I'd hate to hear something happened to him.

CurrySoSpicy

Some of the forum leadership has tried to reach out to him. No word so far.

Noah Wallace

I've tried everything to get this upstream o2 sensor out, which is now stripped. I've tried sprays, vice grips, hammer. Any advice?

EZEARL

Maybe this will help:
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/stu...sensor-233971/

emzdogz

Over the last 5 years or so I've had lots of overheating probs on my '95 2-door 4.0 Cherokee, 145000 miles. Drives really nice. The Jeep is real plain, roll up windows and no gauges, just idiot light for temp.
That light used to just come on when you were already overheated - hey thanks!

But since the time it overheated bad enough to require a head gasket, as well as radiator and water pump, the guy at that shop installed some other water temp sensor which causes the water temp idiot light to act differently.
Now it glows lightly as the engine comes up to temp, then darker for a bit til the thermostat opens, then goes light again - so light you really can't see it in daylight. Gets a little redder at stop lights, etc.
Or if it's totally overheated, then yeah, it glows bright, bright red, like before.
When I discussed this with the mechs who did the work, he said not to worry, they didn't have exact part available (temp sensor?) and that the light glowing was ok, not to worry. Unfortunately I can't communicate in detail with him, because he's only Spanish speaking, I'm only English speaking, mostly.

So I'm wondering if he hooked up the sensor for a gauge model Cherokee, rather than the simple yes or no one for the idiot light models.

Have had yet another radiator put in this year (different shop), but not a new cap, and the cap failed and it overheated again, not too badly this time.
Got new cap on order.

Does it seem possible that my idea is correct? That if the sensor and wiring that goes to a temp GAUGE is used in conjunction with idiot light, the idiot light can vary it's rosy glow depending on engine temp?

thanks in advance!
Em in Tampa
95 XJ 2-door 4.0, black

EZEARL

Should have went this route. Maybe it can still be done.
http://www.naxja.org/html/techarticles/gauge/Gauge.htm

emzdogz

thanks for the link. The thing with my idiot light wasn't done on purpose, to purposely create that effect - it's just what happened when they used the wrong sensor. Maybe I'm way off as to why the light now behaves as it does, it's just a guess.
Yeah I'd love to switch one of the better-equipped instrument panels in.
thanks again!
Or might get an aftermarket gauge and mount it somewhere.
Will run that link by the guy who might help me out with the work. (since he knows what he's doing, and I don't really)

EZEARL

Might want to run a mechanical gauge soon even if it's only temporary. I did the swap years back. It's really plug and play making sure you have the oil and temp gauge sensors meant for gauges.

wizardpc

I think that's EXACTLY what happened.

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/j...+/+sensor,4748

You want one that says "with LIGHT" and not "with GAUGE"

They're cheap. Now, your 95 actually has two temperature sensors. The one that's easy to get to on the front of the engine? That's not the one for the instrument cluster.

No, the one you need to replace is at the back of the engine:

EZEARL

Pretty sure I "modified" an open end wrench to get that one out.

jdjonesdr

I'd be trying to find out why it overheats so much.

Does it have A/C? If it does, do you have the second aux. fan on the radiator? Do it turn on when you turn on the A/C?

I'm in a lot hotter climate than you are, and if mine starts to overheat at all, it's because something is up with that aux. electric fan.

As for the heat guage, I agree with swapping the dash for one with gauges.

hzoltaan

This is my first US car... (being a European)
We do not have vacuum-stuff for stuff what can be solved by simple links...
So, I thought, that 2.1D 1990 XJ will be a simple tractor in comparison with other cars... When I eliminated the failing CAD system I removed meters of vacuum tubes and connectors, and valves, and tidbits "I don't even know what good for"s. The problem is, that now I realized, that winter is coming and heater is stuck on defrost.
which is normal, having no vacuum any more in the bloody system.


Can anyone tell me where vacuum goes into the ventilation system? I seem to have 2 tubes right next to heater core coolant pipes, so I'm guessing they are those. one black one pink.


and please, do tell me what looking things I need to connect.
Never dealt with vacuum before, either simple links or electric motors controlled the things. So, after the break booster what comes?
I have there a T junction (looks like more than a simple T... some kind of a valve...) that feeds the vacuum tank... there is another T what was feeding the system... Do I just connect that to the black or... to the pink...??

hzoltaan

Actually I found this:
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/xj-...bility-223068/


Which shows a black (vacuum feed) and a violet (water valve) going into the magic box under the dash. I think the water valve is already out in my case (installed an electric heater and I want no extra bits in the cooling system of a sissy 2.1TD which will overheat just looking at a well sized hill. )


So I'm guessing that closing off the violet (it must be my pinkish) and feeding the black with vacuum I should be OK. Right...?