macgyver

So pretty sure I know where this thread is going to lead, but I'm open to suggestions.

Just trying to replace my upstream o2 sensor, however the fricken thing won't budge. I've tried a standard wrench, adjustable, and even vice grips which tore it apart only to not have it budge. Attempted to tighten it a bit and then try to loosen again thinking maybe it'd budge but that didn't work. I've PB blasted the hell outta it. Even tried cutting the wires and getting the other end of my closed wrench on it which didn't last long given the vice grip damage. Only thing left I can think of will be to clean the hell outta everything and apply a torch for a min or two and try the vice grips again. However a bit hesitant as I've a transmission leak going on so everything is coated in fluid.

Again, open to suggestions...

Jooman07

tranny fluid is all the way up towards the upstream sensor?

Heat would probably be the best bet, I would just be careful and keep it contained in that area. Maybe even running it for a while so the manifold heats up to operating temp and then applying heat will cut down on the time you'd have to have a torch in there..

Just and idea..

Cane

yep i'd get it up to temperature and by being careful not to burn yourself on the exhaust / muffler / cat, i'd try this way. then if that doesn't do it clean everything and use a torch

IJM

Mine came right off after I heated the bung up with a torch.

CCKen

Use Mapp to get the bung red. Use a pipe wrench to remove it.

dans98xj

When I changed mine I had to break everything off of the old sensor and get a standard socket with a breaker bar and cheater pipe. It was in there good. I did not have access to a torch or MAP gas.

nujeepguy

tried all wrenches,,,went to muffler shop. they used "smoke wrench" for 1 minute, vice grips loosened it. $20

Cummins93

X2 mapp torch and a big pipe wrench. Don't be afraid to use a cheater bar. I have had great success with Harbor Frieght wrenches. Haven't been able to snap one yet even with 4 feet or cheater bar. If you have access to oxy acetylene I would implore you to use that first. It will get the fitting hotter which means less work for you.

cruiser54

I love living in Arizona........don't have to deal with that crap.

DFlintstone

Gosh, thanks Pete, Agreeing with heat and the pipe wrench. If there is any way to strike it with a hammer while applying max torque...the shock -wave sometimes helps. Hitting-taping, the pipe wrench on the back can also help it bite in better, an art there....

I spent $16 on a can of this Kroil. After only a couple of experiments I'll recommend it. Yes, spendy, but really just a little dab, (drop) is all it takes. I expect my can to last meany years>>> http://www.kanolabs.com/

CCKen

I heard Bimmer moved to AZ. Do you get to visit with him often?

jordan96xj

Yeah, once you get Kroil, you really don't mess with anything else (For those reading, yes, it is that good). I started with one small spray can (the smaller sized one). It lasted an entire year, and I used it all the time.

I got introduced to it a few years ago, working on a Honda, and have not been without it since.

cruiser54

Remember I promised to leave your best friend alone.....

cruiser54

Red alert. Red alert.

If Don spent $16 on penetrating oil, it must be great!!!!!


Actually, it's worth every penny, even to a guy who squeezes a nickel til the buffalo ****s.

macgyver

Well, crappy update. Heated the hell outta the sensor, attached a socket and breaker bar and applied my entire body into it. Now the socket spins around it with force (the ends have been rounded out on the sensor) and the sensor hasn't budged an inch. To top it off, the socket is now stuck on it and haven't been able to bash it off with a hammer. Any new suggestions? I'd prefer not to have to remove and replace this portion of muffler as it was just replaced about two years ago with all Borla parts.