Any aftermarket yj or tj fenders fit my 98 xj

 

What's the normal fail point for a CPS?

My jeep had a crank but no start after filling the tank at a gas station. Tried everything from unplugging and replugging in the CPS to pulling the battery cable. I pulled the intake manifold a week prior, to replace the gasket. So the sensor wire moved around a little. However since I got it towed home; it's started and restarted just fine. I have a new Mopar CPS on the way, but just makes me wonder why it'd drop signal like that then be just fine right after. Tolerance test reads as it should. What would make a bad one have continuity?

 

Well... question is, how do you know FOR SURE it was the CPS? I haven't had one fail on me yet, but from everything I've read, it's not really a "fail-ing" part, it's a "it's dead" part. Just quits all of a sudden and that's it. No, "Hey it started working again" or "it's running like crap because of the CPS". You'll just get crank, no start.

BUT, that's not the ONLY cause of crank, no start. I had a bad MAP sensor cause a crank no start on me one time. Don't just assume it's ONE thing on a vehicle with so many sensors.

 

i just came into possession of a 89 2 door pioneer. it has the straight six and manual trans so pretty stoked. My question is that the two other xj i have have the long relay/fuse box on left side of engine bay. This one does not. was there a certain year or model that didn't have this? or has someone monkey f**ked with the wiring?
Thanks.

 

Nope. Renix Jeeps do not have the PDC (Power Distribution Center) under the hood. That didn't show up until 1991(?)

 

How drunk are you right now?

It's between the battery and the coolant pressure bottle. It should have an oddly shaped flat cover over it.

 

From the reading I've done it's rarely the stator in the distributor (aka cam position sensor), will cause a crank no start. That never is intermittent when that goes out. I haven't heard of a map sensor cutting spark or fuel. I know it's not a fuse since it's running again. I've read of other's CPS's intermittently going out prior to completely crapping out. I've read a lot of posts where people suggest replacing the CPS about every 100k. I'm getting good tolerance tests from the plugs to the ECU. I do a lot of driving up to the mountains where I'm out of cell phone range. This just freaks me out how stranded it can leave me (I was headed to the mountains before I experience this). So the hunch would be worth it if I don't experience the issue again. The cost of the sensor is better than finding out later it was the CPS and either having a cold night on the mountain or an extremely expensive tow bill.

I have no CEL. I'm showing proper load readings from the from the MAP sensor. My throttle body and each sensor is spotless. What do you suggest then? I do understand the CPS is just a hall sensor which can't really wear out.

 

Doesn't look like this though does it?



Click for full res

That's the PDC... thought Renix called it something else, am I wrong?

 

Looks like this on a Renix:

 

Ok... your terminology threw me off. Most folks refer to the Crankshaft Position Sensor (on the transmission bellhousing) as the CPS. When that fails, it fails... doesn't "start to fail" or "fail intermittently". As far as the MAP sensor goes, I hadn't either until it happened to me... and for whatever reason, it interrupted power to the fuel pump itself As far as the Stator goes, it should throw a code if it's failing or out of sync (especially on an OBDII system such as yours).

Refresh your grounds, check your connections, check the resistance on your coil, pull the spark plugs and inspect them - along with making sure they have the proper .035" gap, check your relays and relay connections, make sure there's no corrosion anywhere on any electrical terminal or connection, make sure the ground on your battery is tight, and make sure there are no breaks in the insulation to your wiring before you start replacing parts without knowing exactly what the problem is. It's just going to end up costing you more money in the end.

 

I was initially talking about the CRANK position sensor. However i threw out the stator because it would also cause a crank no-start.

I've replaced cap, rotor, plugs, and wires about a year ago. I've also replaced all my charge wire and ground wires about 6 months ago (2 awg). I used a 10 ton hydraulic crimper so everything is to a proper industry standard. I have spotless terminals with no corrosion what so ever. I also am running zinc military terminal tops. I went through everything and it looks good still. Connections should be miles ahead of factory.

 

Okay, maybe they didn't call it the Power Distribution Center (proper noun), but it's still the power distribution center lol

 

lol.... true. I guess I should have worded it differently, but it sounded like he was looking for something that looked like the PDC on HOs, so I was lettin' him know it wasn't there haha. I honestly couldn't remember what to tell him to look for instead though. Good ole' cruiser to the rescue!

 

Ok. Well, the simple answer to your question is that the CRANK position sensor either works or it doesn't. There's not a whole lot of components internally in the sensor. Essentially a magnet with an insulator and a tiny wire connected to it. Once the wire breaks, it won't work anymore.



Obviously, this isn't the EXACT one used in our Jeeps, but it's the same principle.

 

ok so i just bought a used 91 cherokee and the blower motor does not run( no airflow on any setting). i have a new blower motor installed and a new blower motor resistor installed and still the fans do not work on any setting. I dont know what else could be the problem if you know pls help. Thanks