OK, here's how my tie rods look now, covered in $hit and grease:

 

lol... well, the TREs you bought come pre-greased, so no need to worry there. But yeah, no need to lube up the threads on anything. They come together and turn for adjustment just fine without it.

 

EDIT- Just found this one as well.. As I'd need all the goodies to go with it, this looks alright.
Thoughts on this c-list welder? Here is the fleabay version.http://www.ebay.com/itm/Portable-Suitcase-Welder-Kit-Machine-Mig-125-Amp-Black-Electric-Welding-Gun-Mask-/112087104705?_trksid=p2352135.m2548.l4275

 

How difficult is it to remove a lunchbox locker? I just got a 93' sport parts jeep and I'm not sure what differential it has as the cover was missing, I haven't had the chance to inspect the axle yet.

 

I am replacing my steering gear box and putting beefier bumper plates and spacer on the 2000 Cherokee. There are two bolts getting hung up in the frame. It seems like there is a plate or spacer inside the frame there.




Inside of frame where the bolts go for steering gear box.


1. Can this be removed? May make getting bolts out and new bolts in easier.
2. If removed will the beefier plates and Steering box spacer make up for it missing from inside frame?
3. With the potential stress from the steering gear box, was this internal spacer designed to help keep the structural integrity of the frame from crushing or cracking?

 

I wouldn't waste your money on that cheapy welder. Looks too much like the Harbor Freight flux welder - which is also not worth the money. It's not even truly setup correctly to do flux.

The lincoln on the other hand, is a good setup.

 

It's a gusset to prevent the box section from collapsing.

 

It is rusted to the point that it has lost it's structural integrity. I prefer to replace rusted parts - esp, if they have lost strength due to rust!
Even if you have to make, weld, or cobble together something rust free, it would be better.

Even drilling over-sized holes and welding in tubes for the bolt holes!

 

Asked this last night but realized this morning I asked in Grand Cherokee section...whoops. So I'm rebuilding my stock front driveshaft on my 2000 Cherokee. I'm having trouble getting the dust boot to slip over that metal lip. Anyone have any tips for getting that sucker on?

 

Does this mean my inner seals are shot? Are there inner seals on a 8.25?

 

Nope no inner seals. The axle bearings are lubricated by the diff oil.

 

Salad: forever saving me time, money and frustration. Thanks!

 

Well at least I'm useful here... lol

 

So I have a dilemma. I replaced the passenger side window regulator and assembly maybe 1.5years ago. It worked great and then about a month ago it started acting up and didn't always want to work. It finally stopped working once I got it up. It started working this past weekend when i had my door panels apart fixing it so the back windows would work from the back doors. Now my passenger side window is down 4-5" and I don't know how to get it back up. I fixed soders on both switches to no effect. I also checked the wires in the door crease and the only two that were broken were for the speaker and door lock so they both were fixed. If anybody knows how to get the window back up manually or something I'd greatly appreciate it. It's suppose to rain this Thursday. It's a 98 with the 4.0 and power everything.

 

Did you lube everything up when you replaced the parts? You could've burned out the motor if there's too much resistance