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XJ Ask the Question Thread
Any way that i could check them?
AC does not work, so i rarely use it, and there is a little spot where there is some cracking in the vacuum line going from the main line to the servo. I was thinking of just getting a new servo but if i could just replace that small line that would be great. Any ideas as to where to get one? Any way that i could check them?
Hardware and automotive stores will commonly have vac lines. Another component is the check valve- a one way passage- always good to pull them out of the lines and see if they function properly. Remember which way they go!! I'm sure Ken will have diagnostics sheet up soon 

CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 8,357
Likes: 102
From: Canton, MI
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Cruise control has been finicky lately. Just installed a new-to-me clock spring and a JY engine servo.
- Most times when I turn the cruise control on the servo will not kick in to hold the speed
- Sometimes the cruise control light will not come on at all
- Horn still works and there is no airbag light, even when the cruise control light will not come on at all
- Sometimes after failing to engage the servo, the cruise control light will turn off and will not come back on after pressing the on button
Any ideas?
Thanks in advance
- Most times when I turn the cruise control on the servo will not kick in to hold the speed
- Sometimes the cruise control light will not come on at all
- Horn still works and there is no airbag light, even when the cruise control light will not come on at all
- Sometimes after failing to engage the servo, the cruise control light will turn off and will not come back on after pressing the on button
Any ideas?
Thanks in advance
Why a YJ servo? Is it compatible with XJ circuit wiring?
Location wise idk exactly. There is one on the pass side firewall where vac line comes out and splits into two lines. Another one or two on the lines into intake manifold, they should be pretty close to manifold. Poke on google and do site specific searches here jeepforum, naxja and pirate for some images/diagrams.
I have a 2015 Cherokee Latitude with Active Drive II. I hear a high-pitch whine more often than not when it is running. I have been told by service mgr at dealer where I purchased car, that it is a water pump and is common among Cherokees (not necessarily Latitudes). He said Jeep is aware but there is no fix.
Has anyone heard of this problem?
Can anyone confirm this is common?
Can anyone confirm Jeep has no fix or resolution for this problem?
Can anyone indicate a possible fix?
Thanks.
Ken
Has anyone heard of this problem?
Can anyone confirm this is common?
Can anyone confirm Jeep has no fix or resolution for this problem?
Can anyone indicate a possible fix?
Thanks.
Ken
Junior Member
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
From: 70729
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
XJ frame reinforcements:
Save $64 and go with the full "C" design from Hooligan or spend the $64 and forgo the extra vertical wall, but have extra bracing up into the front wells and a supportive lip on the floorpan with the ones from Ruffstuff? Or go with neither because there is a better option from ________?
Save $64 and go with the full "C" design from Hooligan or spend the $64 and forgo the extra vertical wall, but have extra bracing up into the front wells and a supportive lip on the floorpan with the ones from Ruffstuff? Or go with neither because there is a better option from ________?
Herp Derp Jerp

Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 18,251
Likes: 17
From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
I have a 2015 Cherokee Latitude with Active Drive II. I hear a high-pitch whine more often than not when it is running. I have been told by service mgr at dealer where I purchased car, that it is a water pump and is common among Cherokees (not necessarily Latitudes). He said Jeep is aware but there is no fix.
Has anyone heard of this problem?
Can anyone confirm this is common?
Can anyone confirm Jeep has no fix or resolution for this problem?
Can anyone indicate a possible fix?
Thanks.
Ken
Has anyone heard of this problem?
Can anyone confirm this is common?
Can anyone confirm Jeep has no fix or resolution for this problem?
Can anyone indicate a possible fix?
Thanks.
Ken
XJ Cherokees rolled out of the factory in 1983
Herp Derp Jerp

Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 18,251
Likes: 17
From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
XJ frame reinforcements:
Save $64 and go with the full "C" design from Hooligan or spend the $64 and forgo the extra vertical wall, but have extra bracing up into the front wells and a supportive lip on the floorpan with the ones from Ruffstuff? Or go with neither because there is a better option from ________?
Save $64 and go with the full "C" design from Hooligan or spend the $64 and forgo the extra vertical wall, but have extra bracing up into the front wells and a supportive lip on the floorpan with the ones from Ruffstuff? Or go with neither because there is a better option from ________?
I like the Hooligan Offroad units because of how they completely cup the frame rail. I am biased against them because they say call it a unibody stiffener... ffs. They're uh definitely seriously thick. lol
I don't think the RuffStuff design with the lip onto the floor pan is really necessary. I'd buy the Hooligan stiffeners and pick up a front and rear set to complete the vehicle. HD Offroad Engineering has some http://hdoffroadengineering.myshopify.com/
Newbie
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
From: Central Jersey
Year: 1999 & 2000 Red
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I have a 2000 XJ (111k)..when starting out there is a grinding noise which seems to be slower than road speed. I jacked each wheel up and the wheels are tight and no odd sounds when spun. Pads and rotors look good. Did the NASCAR wiggle driving and the noise did not change when loading and unloading the front end. This makes me think it's not the wheel bearings.
What else should I look at?
What else should I look at?
Location wise idk exactly. There is one on the pass side firewall where vac line comes out and splits into two lines. Another one or two on the lines into intake manifold, they should be pretty close to manifold. Poke on google and do site specific searches here jeepforum, naxja and pirate for some images/diagrams.
No, I don't lick fish.



Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 11,169
Likes: 26
From: Northern Kentucky
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
1992 4.0
Throwing codes 12 (recent battery or computer disconnect) & 17 (Engine stays cool too long)
Not too worried about #12, even though it's been forever since I've disconnected either, #17 is definitely a truth fact though. I recently replaced the thermostat from a 160* t-stat to a 195* t-stat and it STILL scarcely hits operating temps. I'm quite sure it's the temp sensor/sending unit I'm just looking for recommendations on which ones to get and which to stay away from.
RockAuto.com sells Airtex/Wells (which I've heard wonderful things about their fuel pumps
), Standard Motor Products, Delphi (which I've always had good experience with), and AC Delco (also good from my experiences).
Anyone have any other suggestions or warnings?
Throwing codes 12 (recent battery or computer disconnect) & 17 (Engine stays cool too long)
Not too worried about #12, even though it's been forever since I've disconnected either, #17 is definitely a truth fact though. I recently replaced the thermostat from a 160* t-stat to a 195* t-stat and it STILL scarcely hits operating temps. I'm quite sure it's the temp sensor/sending unit I'm just looking for recommendations on which ones to get and which to stay away from.
RockAuto.com sells Airtex/Wells (which I've heard wonderful things about their fuel pumps
), Standard Motor Products, Delphi (which I've always had good experience with), and AC Delco (also good from my experiences). Anyone have any other suggestions or warnings?
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 12,692
Likes: 6
From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
1992 4.0
Throwing codes 12 (recent battery or computer disconnect) & 17 (Engine stays cool too long)
Not too worried about #12, even though it's been forever since I've disconnected either, #17 is definitely a truth fact though. I recently replaced the thermostat from a 160* t-stat to a 195* t-stat and it STILL scarcely hits operating temps. I'm quite sure it's the temp sensor/sending unit I'm just looking for recommendations on which ones to get and which to stay away from.
RockAuto.com sells Airtex/Wells (which I've heard wonderful things about their fuel pumps
), Standard Motor Products, Delphi (which I've always had good experience with), and AC Delco (also good from my experiences).
Anyone have any other suggestions or warnings?
Throwing codes 12 (recent battery or computer disconnect) & 17 (Engine stays cool too long)
Not too worried about #12, even though it's been forever since I've disconnected either, #17 is definitely a truth fact though. I recently replaced the thermostat from a 160* t-stat to a 195* t-stat and it STILL scarcely hits operating temps. I'm quite sure it's the temp sensor/sending unit I'm just looking for recommendations on which ones to get and which to stay away from.
RockAuto.com sells Airtex/Wells (which I've heard wonderful things about their fuel pumps
), Standard Motor Products, Delphi (which I've always had good experience with), and AC Delco (also good from my experiences). Anyone have any other suggestions or warnings?





