Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown

Cherokees got a universal wiring harness from the factory, so all those wires are already in the door (just FYI). The good news it you don't have to worry about plugs if it didn't come with them. The most popular changes are to add a soundbar above the front seats or to relocate the door speakers to the kick panels on the floor.

You can simply put quick connect weatherpak connectors on the speaker lines, or you can find the write-up that shows how to use ZJ Grand Cherokee door plugs to easily utilize full power accessories.

On a side note, you can add on the parts to get power accessories, and they'll plug right in. If that interests you, the ZJ door plugs would be your best bet. If you don't care, and you're willing to move your speakers and lose power mirrors, you won't have any wiring to worry about.

Originally Posted by salad

Strictly speaking they are not identical. The blocks basically were reinforced but changes were made in the head and the cams.

The other thing is that there is a difference in emissions performance and compliance between OBD-I and OBD-II models. For example, most (if not all) of the OBD-I XJs do not have downstream O2 sensors. Also being OBD-I, the modern "plug it in and check monitors" style of testing does not work.

What is it you're trying to accomplish? Get an entire vehicle registered and tested or have an engine swap certified?

Originally Posted by dalibor

Thanks a lot for the response! I am just trying to register an imported car XJ 1991 in Czech without paying too much emission-based (norms: Euro I, Euro II, etc..) "eco-tax". The official local Jeep database however has only data on 1994 cars and younger.
How do I find out whether the engine is OBD-I or II? By a year? If I can show that my 91 is identical to 94 engine, that would certainly help

Originally Posted by salad

Not really unless you find a fancy-*** special not-switch that opens circuits instead of closing them. Changing the shape of one doesn't change how they work

I can do a diagram for you if you like.

Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown

I'd appreciate it. And I referenced types cause I didn't know if there would be specialty applications where, for example, a rotary commonly used for X may be built to operate differently than standard parts bin switches

Edit: Bonus question: Could I use a DPST center open switch:
Light 1 to position 1
Light 2 to position 3
Leads to both to position 2
Using diodes to prevent power from flowing through position 2 when position 1 or 3 is selected?

That's purely hypothetical. I'm probably using the wrong terminology, and it may be completely impractical/impossible

Originally Posted by MBXJ98

Well the clutched fan on my xj kicks on for the first few seconds of driving but I'm pretty sure its normal. Could the electric fan be on due to the ac being on?

Originally Posted by Will_Root

Even when I have the ac off the fan will still roar when I start to drive off.

Originally Posted by dalibor

Thanks a lot for the response! I am just trying to register an imported car XJ 1991 in Czech without paying too much emission-based (norms: Euro I, Euro II, etc..) "eco-tax". The official local Jeep database however has only data on 1994 cars and younger.
How do I find out whether the engine is OBD-I or II? By a year? If I can show that my 91 is identical to 94 engine, that would certainly help

Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown

Got it figured out with a DP3T with help from an electronics forum

Originally Posted by cruiser54

Pretty normal. The silicone fluid inside has settled down and cooled inside it overnight.

Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown

Got it figured out with a DP3T with help from an electronics forum

Originally Posted by cruiser54

Pretty normal. The silicone fluid inside has settled down and cooled inside it overnight.

Originally Posted by Will_Root

Is there anyway to fix that?

Originally Posted by 884x4

Damn 242 is still jumping out of 4lo.
Even with the new boost werks linkage.
It's pissing atf from the hack and tap anyways so I'm gonna go find a 231.
I found a few with my spline count on the trans(21 cause it's an 88) but there all at like 200k.
I was just gonna grab a sye kit and the 231 boost werks linkage for it but now I'm thinking while I have it apart to do a rebuild kit and HD chain....thoughts? I wanna keep costs under 500$ and the cases I found are all at 200$.
I have a wheeling for warriors even to go to the first of March and this thing needs to run top.
Guess the boat sides and cage are gonna be held off until summer cause of this freaking case

Originally Posted by 884x4

Damn 242 is still jumping out of 4lo.
Even with the new boost werks linkage.
It's pissing atf from the hack and tap anyways so I'm gonna go find a 231.
I found a few with my spline count on the trans(21 cause it's an 88) but there all at like 200k.
I was just gonna grab a sye kit and the 231 boost werks linkage for it but now I'm thinking while I have it apart to do a rebuild kit and HD chain....thoughts? I wanna keep costs under 500$ and the cases I found are all at 200$.
I have a wheeling for warriors even to go to the first of March and this thing needs to run top.
Guess the boat sides and cage are gonna be held off until summer cause of this freaking case

Originally Posted by salad

To prevent it from cooling and settling? You could never turn your engine off, that'd be the easiest!

The fan clutch is a regular wear item. Replace it if you want, they don't last forever.



HD chain might put your over budget, depending on all the other parts, but rebuilding a 231 is pretty easy if the hard parts are still good. You could simply save money and rebuild your 242 instead?