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Old Jan 22, 2015 | 05:32 PM
  #48001  
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Originally Posted by SoCalDude
First off, I want to say thanks to everyone on this forum. If it weren't for this group of people, i would have surely pushed my jeep off a cliff in frustration on more than one occasion . I recently discovered a big crack in my poorly put together homebrew cold air intake and noticed that there was a whole mess of junk in my throttle body and intake manifold (mostly oily, also due to a clogged ccv/pcv). I kept digging deeper, cleaning out the sludge, one thing led to another, and now I have my cylinder head off and siting on the work bench. It is a 2000 XJ Sport 5-speed with the dreaded 0331 Cylinder head. I'm wondering if it's worth putting back on or if i should just bite the bullet now when it's already off and replace it with a new beefier one. How likely is it that this is going to crack on me any time soon? I've never had any notable coolant loss, there's no cross contamination between coolant and oil, the head gasket was completely intact, and there are no visible cracks in the cylinder head. It has been overheated before and it's warped maybe a couple thousandths in the middle. If I didnt replace it, I would get it machined and Lap the valves, I just don't want to put money and effort into a flawed part if it's going crack on me in the near future The Cherokee has about 125,000 miles and i plan on keeping it for as long as i can. Thanks for any and all advice!!
put a tupy 0331 head on it, direct bolt in and better peace of mind
Old Jan 22, 2015 | 05:33 PM
  #48002  
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From: west chester, pa
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Originally Posted by ehall
DPDT switch
the function of DPDT switch is ON-OFF-ON. Apparently he want power to all three positions. So that wouldn't work with his needs
Old Jan 22, 2015 | 05:55 PM
  #48003  
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Year: 1991
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Originally Posted by XJwonders
the function of DPDT switch is ON-OFF-ON. Apparently he want power to all three positions. So that wouldn't work with his needs
DPDT can be wired up for three circuits three positions, maybe not the way he wants but some way

-------------------------

might be better just searching for "8-pin 3-position switch" since those can be wired up just about anyway imaginable

Last edited by ehall; Jan 22, 2015 at 06:46 PM.
Old Jan 22, 2015 | 08:25 PM
  #48004  
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
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Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
Basic electrical question:
I want a three position switch to run two lights as follows:

Position 1: Light 1 on
Position 2: Both lights on
Position 3: Light 2 on

What am I looking for in electronics terminology so I can find it? Relay/amperage isn't an issue here; just the switching aspect.
Are you using relays to power the lights? If so this can be done easily with a SPDT switch. Instead of hooking the lights up to the N/O side of the relay (pin 87), wire them up to the N/C side (pin 87a). Supply power to the center pin of the switch and run the throws to the coil on the relays. Presto, switch applies power to one or the other relay, thereby breaking that circuit, or applies no power and both lights are illuminated.

A second switch with its own relay would be prudent so you can actually turn this stuff off lol
Old Jan 22, 2015 | 08:28 PM
  #48005  
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
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Originally Posted by salad
Are you using relays to power the lights? If so this can be done easily with a SPDT switch. Instead of hooking the lights up to the N/O side of the relay (pin 87), wire them up to the N/C side (pin 87a). Supply power to the center pin of the switch and run the throws to the coil on the relays. Presto, switch applies power to one or the other relay, thereby breaking that circuit, or applies no power and both lights are powered.

A second switch with its own relay would be prudent so you can actually turn this stuff off lol
Wasn't planning on running a relay if I could find a sufficient switch. It's only 4ft of LED strips when they're all running. And the controller has an on/off function, but I'm trying to work around the shortcomings of a cheaper module instead of buying the $130 loaded with features I don't want.

And way to do it with a toggle switch/rotary/anything else? Or am I gonna need relay(s)? I really don't care for electrical. I'd rather pay for a harness when one's available
Old Jan 22, 2015 | 08:37 PM
  #48006  
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
And way to do it with a toggle switch/rotary/anything else? Or am I gonna need relay(s)? I really don't care for electrical. I'd rather pay for a harness when one's available
Not really unless you find a fancy-*** special not-switch that opens circuits instead of closing them. Changing the shape of one doesn't change how they work

I can do a diagram for you if you like.
Old Jan 22, 2015 | 08:39 PM
  #48007  
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Originally Posted by salad
Not really unless you find a fancy-*** special not-switch that opens circuits instead of closing them. Changing the shape of one doesn't change how they work

I can do a diagram for you if you like.
I'd appreciate it. And I referenced types cause I didn't know if there would be specialty applications where, for example, a rotary commonly used for X may be built to operate differently than standard parts bin switches


Edit: Bonus question: Could I use a DPST center open switch:
Light 1 to position 1
Light 2 to position 3
Leads to both to position 2
Using diodes to prevent power from flowing through position 2 when position 1 or 3 is selected?


That's purely hypothetical. I'm probably using the wrong terminology, and it may be completely impractical/impossible

Last edited by NewKindOfClown; Jan 22, 2015 at 08:42 PM.
Old Jan 22, 2015 | 09:47 PM
  #48008  
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Default Roaring noise

Okay so on my '99 XJ when I first start it up after it's been off for more than about 30-45 minutes it roars when I start to drive off. It doesn't sound like that when it is just idling. Just when I put my Jeep in drive and drive off. I'm pretty sure it's just the electric fan because when it idles the fan comes on like every 10 seconds. But I'm not sure if it is the fan. I just think it is. Can someone please help? Thank you in advance

Last edited by Will_Root; Jan 22, 2015 at 09:52 PM. Reason: Misspelling
Old Jan 22, 2015 | 10:32 PM
  #48009  
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Originally Posted by Will_Root
Okay so on my '99 XJ when I first start it up after it's been off for more than about 30-45 minutes it roars when I start to drive off. It doesn't sound like that when it is just idling. Just when I put my Jeep in drive and drive off. I'm pretty sure it's just the electric fan because when it idles the fan comes on like every 10 seconds. But I'm not sure if it is the fan. I just think it is. Can someone please help? Thank you in advance
Well the clutched fan on my xj kicks on for the first few seconds of driving but I'm pretty sure its normal. Could the electric fan be on due to the ac being on?
Old Jan 23, 2015 | 01:15 AM
  #48010  
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I have a bone stock '94 XJ. This Summer I want to take the doors off and I've heard multiple people say its okay to and others say the unibody will fold in half? Please help!
Old Jan 23, 2015 | 01:24 AM
  #48011  
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Originally Posted by WhiskeyRiverXJ
I have a bone stock '94 XJ. This Summer I want to take the doors off and I've heard multiple people say its okay to and others say the unibody will fold in half? Please help!
Does this answer your questions?
I don't have all my pictures here on the work computer, but this is one of six jumps that day (not the fastest/highest one), and I wheeled it stock (doorless) on Blue-Blacks and a Red trail.




Tons of people have done this, and nobody has ever had a problem from it.


(And yes, I had a bunch of scrap metal, a D35 axle, a full cooler, used motor oil, a spare tailgate, two spare tires, both doors, and some other stuff in the bed when I jumped it)
Old Jan 23, 2015 | 01:36 AM
  #48012  
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
Does this answer your questions?
I don't have all my pictures here on the work computer, but this is one of six jumps that day (not the fastest/highest one), and I wheeled it stock (doorless) on Blue-Blacks and a Red trail.


Tim jumping the manche - YouTube


Tons of people have done this, and nobody has ever had a problem from it.


(And yes, I had a bunch of scrap metal, a D35 axle, a full cooler, used motor oil, a spare tailgate, two spare tires, both doors, and some other stuff in the bed when I jumped it)
So without a cage is okay as well? Is an MJ unibody as well? Sorry I'm just really cautious.
Old Jan 23, 2015 | 01:42 AM
  #48013  
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Originally Posted by WhiskeyRiverXJ
So without a cage is okay as well? Is an MJ unibody as well? Sorry I'm just really cautious.
I understand. I wouldn't make a habit of jumping a Cherokee without a cage, regardless, but the reduction of structural strength with door removal is insignificant. If you're worried about it, get some unibody stiffeners (which are a good investment if you plan to wheel it for a few years). As for the MJ, it's a hybrid design. The front is unibody, almost identical to an XJ, but the rear is a boxed frame design onto which the bed bolts.
Old Jan 23, 2015 | 02:21 AM
  #48014  
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
I understand. I wouldn't make a habit of jumping a Cherokee without a cage, regardless, but the reduction of structural strength with door removal is insignificant. If you're worried about it, get some unibody stiffeners (which are a good investment if you plan to wheel it for a few years). As for the MJ, it's a hybrid design. The front is unibody, almost identical to an XJ, but the rear is a boxed frame design onto which the bed bolts.
Oh okay cool. I won't be wheeling again for a while, and I don't plan on jumping it either lol. And as for the doors, they're manual windows/locks so the only wires I'd have to worry about are the door speakers and the mirror assembly right? Or are there other unknowns I have yet to discover?
Old Jan 23, 2015 | 02:28 AM
  #48015  
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Originally Posted by WhiskeyRiverXJ
Oh okay cool. I won't be wheeling again for a while, and I don't plan on jumping it either lol. And as for the doors, they're manual windows/locks so the only wires I'd have to worry about are the door speakers and the mirror assembly right? Or are there other unknowns I have yet to discover?
Cherokees got a universal wiring harness from the factory, so all those wires are already in the door (just FYI). The good news it you don't have to worry about plugs if it didn't come with them. The most popular changes are to add a soundbar above the front seats or to relocate the door speakers to the kick panels on the floor.

You can simply put quick connect weatherpak connectors on the speaker lines, or you can find the write-up that shows how to use ZJ Grand Cherokee door plugs to easily utilize full power accessories.

On a side note, you can add on the parts to get power accessories, and they'll plug right in. If that interests you, the ZJ door plugs would be your best bet. If you don't care, and you're willing to move your speakers and lose power mirrors, you won't have any wiring to worry about.



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