On a 88 Renix while doing the motor mounts can I just remove the oil filter and unscrew the stud that goes inside the filter to do the motor mount or do I have to remove the whole Oil Filter adapter?

I got about 2 hours and would like to swap out my mounts. I may just do the driver side until I get a define answer.

 

So last week, I was removing AC components off my jeep, and in order to access one of disconnects for the AC Condensor, I had to remove the battery. And I put the battery on the backseat, not on concrete. When I put battery back in the engine compartment, I had problems starting ever since.

First few days, it would be 1/2 second delay than usual to start up. Then after than, it would take 1-2 seconds delay to start up. Last Tuesday, it wouldn't start up, I would have to get it jumpstarted. Morning and afternoon, I would jumpstart it just to drive somewhere.

Today on my lunch break I was looking for parasitic draw. I had a coworker turn the key while I was probing stuff.

The battery is at 12.43 volts and when he turns the key, it drops down to 3-4 volts then slowly o back up to 12 volts after 10 seconds.

I proved the solenoid wire. When he turns the key, it goes up to 2-3 volts.

The starter works beautifully when it's jumpstarted though. And the coworker says it is making normal clicking sound, no grinding or whatsoever.

The battery is 2-1/2 year old.

Anything else I need to prove or check?

 

^Odd. Sounds like time for a load test on that battery. It's voltage should not take that long to recover from an attempted start.

 

Moving the battery around may have dislodged some Lead Suphate and shorted out some plates.

A 2-1/2 YO battery is starting to push the limits of longivity for a cheap battery.

If you can pull the caps off the top of the battery, look inside at the electrolyte level. It should be around 1/4" above the plates. See if the plates have excessive Sulphate build up.

 

I've done it without removing the OFA numerous times.

 

Advance Auto Parts will test any battery for free, they do the test right in front of you and the result is printed so they cant sell you something you dont need.

 

Thanks for the info.

Which line going into the Radiator and which is out. I am presuming the upper is in and the lower is out.

Doesn't putting the auxiliary cooler in front of radiator block airflow and contribute to over heating?

RSWiser

 

A friend agreed to help me install a replacement exhaust header/manifold. What is a good replacement? I've seen the big bore Staineless ones, and the ones with new flex joints installed, any difference or ups / downs for those? I just replaced my motor & trans mounts with OEMs and don't really offroad much (mall crawler whaaaaat) so I just need something good for longevity over power. I imagine those Borla big bore ones are better for power.

 

The trans fluid will already be partially cooled from passing through the rad, and the trans cooler will drop the temp farther. The air passing by should receive minimal heat from the fluid in the auxiliary cooler, so the air won't really be any warmer. It also didn't block as much air as you might think. Remember, it's just a small radiator. It's designed for air to pass through.

In addition to this, the engine coolant and trans fluid balance temperatures a bit when they pass through the rad. The now-cooler transmission fluid will have a direct impact on the coolant temp

 

Thanks for the info. I'm going to get on this next week.

RSWiser

 

indeed that was the case. And I often see the top of the battery being wet. I couldn't figure it out and realized it was leaking from the cap.

Last night I went to advance auto and had it load tested. Confirmed it was bad and had it replaced under warranty.

All is good now. Thanks! Ken and Steve!

 

Changing rear outer bearings on my jeep tomorrow.

8.25 rear end.

Bought the bearing and the seal.

Is there any other way to get the bearing out without a slide hammer? Think I can sawzall through the bearing super careful and then pry it out?

 

I wouldn't risk it. Got a local parts store? Autozone? A lot of them will rent out parts, and they pay you back when you return it so its essentially free. Go get a bearing puller.

 

I'm installing a new Dana 211229x onto a grand cherokee shaft and the joint in the New part feels notchy, actually has a bit of a click.
It was the same thing when installed on my xj front shaft. It was ran that way for about 75km, removed and was still a little notchy. Should I run it as is or am I doing something wrong? The spring seems to line up nicely inside the spindle and center ball bearing, at least from what I can see and feel

 

I have seen people use a 3' pry-bar to remove them. But the bar had a bend at the tip that seemed to help.
A rented-for-deposit bearing puller would be best.
A saw could leave behind metal shavings inside the axle tube.