OK I have an '89 Cherokee 4.0L with the H.O. open cooling system and the aux fan won't turn on when it should though it does turn on when I flip on the a/c, I have it on a switch for the hot days but I want it to work like it should
so what should be on my list of things to check/ poke with my multi meter?
also read something about a temp sensor on the radiator for the renix systems?

 

I went wheeling. I couldn't quite get through some mud so I backed up and let my friend try in his Jeep. When I came back and started it, I couldn't get my engine to rev when I put my foot on the gas. It started right up. When I went to turn it on again it started right up, had the same problem and then it went back to normal. I kept wheeling and then drove home with no problems.

Any ideas on what went wrong, should I worry about it?

Thanks,
Jon

Sent from my iPhone using CherokeeFM

 

SKYLINE... it could be a couple diferent things going on that Ive expeienced first hand.
A bad Throttle Posision Sensor could be the problem. I took my first ever XJ on its first ever trail ride back in the day and my T.P.S. got fried from mud, water, dirt, etc... getting in the engine bay and muckin up all the sensors that sit at or near the throttle body. Check all the connections to the TPS and IAC and MAP sensor. If they look good. Get underneath your Jeep and give a few beats of a hammer to your cat convertor to make sure the honey comb inside hasnt been busted loose. This ceramic honey comb stuff can and will bust apart and will completly clog your exhaust system. Happened to me and I couldnt get my rpms past 1800.
My guess would be the TPS is going out if it hasnt already. All those sensors right around the throttle body work together and it wasnt untill I replaced all the sensors(TPS,IAC,MAP) that my idle and reving problem quit. And my Jeep ran better than it ever had sinced I owned it
Just my 2 cents. Hope it helps though

 

If it is any of the above, will it happen again? I had absolutely no difference in driving from before I wheeled.

 

If any of those sensors are out or you have a clogged cat, your jeep would be running like crap 100% of the time. Unless one of the wires to any of the sensors is partialy(spelling?) exposed and hitting metal and causing a short. Or you could have some mud/gunk somewhere which was making your jeep run like pooh and it flew or bounced off when you were driving and its all good now.

 

Ok I thought it was maybe just mud. I'm still learning the difference between: mud that momentarily makes you Jeep run poorly, the random Cherokee noises they are famous for and an actual problem.

Thanks, and I'll take note if it runs like crap again. I don't think it will. I was pushing my Jeep a little too much there and probably picked up to much there until it fell out.

Sent from my iPhone using CherokeeFM

 

Ok so my jeep is cutting out around 2500-3000rpms. Its basically when i hit the throttle to speed up and from 2500-3000rpm's it will just cut out and not go any faster but once it gets over 3000rpms it'll take off again then it'll shift and do the same thing again...Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

Ok so this may be a no brainer question, but I can't find info in it...but the rubber seals or covers on the tie rod ends are they supposed to be cut or have a part that is "ripped" open? I was doing an alignment this afternoon and noticed it and its been bugging me?

 

If the boots are torn you need new ones

 

Ok that's what I though but I saw that they were torn pretty much the exact same...it was also the same on the steering column part....so they all need replaced...do I need to buy new tie rod ends then?

 

Depends on if you can get the tie rods off with out messing them up. I bought some boots from the auto parts store and it seems to work ok. They only had red when I got mine. But tie rod ends dont cost a whole lot either. So I geuss it comes down to how the rod ends are working. If they seem fine just put new boots on.

 

Ok...one more question...if u to were just walk up to a jeep say and grab the tie rod assuming it was all good grab it and twist it back and forth should it move like flex and have a some play from inside the boot area? Or should it not move like that?

 

Mine has some play in it (you can twist it some) but if you can lift up and down on it that would be play...in a bad way.

 

Ok cool, yea it just twists back n forth a lil but not up and down or anything...so just some new boots and I should be good, thanks...

 

I put a good running 99 wrangler engine in my 90 xj(friends engine he put in a 5.3 chevy) It runs but is backfiring out the exhaust.I've tried to reset the distributor 3 times and I'm getting a little frustrated.I had to use almost everything from the xj on the wrangler engine(longblock) I have alot of mechanical experiance but not on 4.0's I read the manual and can't figure why it won't run smooth..thanks in advance for any help..

Donnie