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XJ Ask the Question Thread
02-19-2014, 09:57 PM
Herp Derp Jerp
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Parham, ON
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Custom trackbar is a good point. Not just for length but to clear all that junk. Might get into the territory of 2WD front axles.
So you still haven't shared with us why you want to donk an XJ...
Not sure what you mean by that, the seller ships internationally. There is also an American distributor here with that product: http://www.airflowamerica.com/?page_id=127
1st, dont buy a pulled motor or a car with one that doesnt run right. rebuilding these motors is costly [usually if its got bad compression usually the pistons need replaced, and those are $300 a piece].
the adapters for almost all jeep transmissions are available through mercedesdiesel4x4.com. theyt also build motor mounts and shaved pans so that the pan can clear the axle.
im using a NSG370 so i have more range, but an AX15 will work fine as well.
heres my thread. i have the car and now all i have to do is get the parts for the swap.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f46/project-nikita-63473/
the adapters for almost all jeep transmissions are available through mercedesdiesel4x4.com. theyt also build motor mounts and shaved pans so that the pan can clear the axle.
im using a NSG370 so i have more range, but an AX15 will work fine as well.
heres my thread. i have the car and now all i have to do is get the parts for the swap.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f46/project-nikita-63473/
02-19-2014, 10:01 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Chickamauga Ga.
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Down, boy! Heel!
02-19-2014, 10:06 PM
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 inline 6
Question on Rear tire mounting
Why are there no tire mounts for jeep cherokee hatches? Is the door structure, hinges, or cylinder lifts too weak to mount the tire in place of the license plate?
02-19-2014, 10:12 PM
Moderator of Jeeps
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Location: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
Not sure why you'd need to bumpstop an oil pan. Set bumpstops on coils so that axle doesn't touch it?
Custom trackbar is a good point. Not just for length but to clear all that junk. Might get into the territory of 2WD front axles.
So you still haven't shared with us why you want to donk an XJ...
That said, the point is to go lower. Biggest limitation is the oil pan contacting the axle. I know there are hot rod/rat rod/minitruck solutions to that, but I'm having trouble finding info.
And for the record, donking is lifting to fit bigger rims. I just want to lower (not even slam) and keep stock tires.
Yes
02-19-2014, 10:23 PM
Herp Derp Jerp
Join Date: Nov 2011
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Gonna be 2WD, and why not? I'll be replacing the Camaro with an XJ and using it as a commuter/backup for when the YJ is down. I don't want two project vehicles, but I don't wanna drive a stock Jeep. If I drop the XJ, I won't be tempted to offroad it.
That said, the point is to go lower. Biggest limitation is the oil pan contacting the axle. I know there are hot rod/rat rod/minitruck solutions to that, but I'm having trouble finding info.
And for the record, donking is lifting to fit bigger rims. I just want to lower (not even slam) and keep stock tires.
I've heard of the concept, but I'm having trouble finding info.
That said, the point is to go lower. Biggest limitation is the oil pan contacting the axle. I know there are hot rod/rat rod/minitruck solutions to that, but I'm having trouble finding info.
And for the record, donking is lifting to fit bigger rims. I just want to lower (not even slam) and keep stock tires.
I've heard of the concept, but I'm having trouble finding info.
Interesting idea.
02-20-2014, 06:32 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: N.Y.
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Down to misfire in cyl 1 only , when I changed the plugs the one that came out of # 1 the side of the insolator was broken around the electrode, yes did a compression test 1 is slightly lower then the rest
02-20-2014, 06:32 AM
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Alright 96 xj country getting a 4.5 lift, comes with the tc drop, buts i want To get a sye for it. Idk which would be best or whatelse ill need. It's an automatic with the np 231. Any help?
02-20-2014, 06:37 AM
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
02-20-2014, 07:03 AM
Herp Derp Jerp
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
02-20-2014, 07:24 AM
Moderator of Jeeps
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Location: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
http://www.ratrodnation.com/forum/ra...pan-clearance/
Still looking for info on notching the axle.
02-20-2014, 07:44 AM
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
02-20-2014, 07:56 AM
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO from a 91 Comanche.
Hello, I am a newbe and this is my first post. I have a 1994 jeep Cherokee SE. 4.0L, 6 cylinder.
Problem: cranks but no start. Not even a sputter.
problem first occurred after sitting for 3 days during an unusually cold weekend (9 degrees F.)
I Replaced: fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel pump relay, crankshaft position sensor (the one on the bell housing), camshaft position sensor ( the one that sits between the distributor and distributor cap).
Fuel rail has pressure, and there is blue/white spark from distributor to spark plug when I crank the motor.
I am machanically inclined but not electronically inclined. I saw some threads talking about wire harness issues and so I checked my Chiltons manual and tried to follow instructions about testing for grounds/opens etc.. at the computer module (PCM?), but my wire colors and locations don't match what the manuel is saying so I am not sure how to proceed.
Jay.
Problem: cranks but no start. Not even a sputter.
problem first occurred after sitting for 3 days during an unusually cold weekend (9 degrees F.)
I Replaced: fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel pump relay, crankshaft position sensor (the one on the bell housing), camshaft position sensor ( the one that sits between the distributor and distributor cap).
Fuel rail has pressure, and there is blue/white spark from distributor to spark plug when I crank the motor.
I am machanically inclined but not electronically inclined. I saw some threads talking about wire harness issues and so I checked my Chiltons manual and tried to follow instructions about testing for grounds/opens etc.. at the computer module (PCM?), but my wire colors and locations don't match what the manuel is saying so I am not sure how to proceed.
Jay.
02-20-2014, 12:21 PM
Newbie
I replaced almost every part of my cooling system. Jeep is a 1989 Jeep Cherokee. It had the Closed Cooling system and I am trying to convert it into an open System. I messed up something along the way and now can't quite figure out what's wrong. It still overheats very quickly. T-stat has been replaced 3 times, water pump replaced, fan clutch replaced. Vacuum's are working. Maybe lines are mixed up? Also heater no longer works. Only puts out cold air. Hopefully this Provides some insight for those more knowledgeable in this. I have pictures but not sure how to post them.
02-20-2014, 12:39 PM
Newbie
It'd Be easier to show you I have several pictures. I've replaced the radiator and re ran some of the lines...Incorrectly... Hopefully picture I attached comes through.
I removed the coolant tank. Added a Heater control valve. Everything is the same pretty much except the lines. I added a 3 core radiator. I added a cap in the middle of the line that goes to the radiator. Bottom right you can see the cap. The cap on radiator at the top doesn't run to anything. Also there's an overflow bottle to the left of the block.
Below is a link to photobucket with several pictures of the setup in detail and in larger detail.
http://s1297.photobucket.com/user/bu...slideshow/Jeep
Last edited by Bucky; 02-20-2014 at 01:25 PM.