Pfff.. missed that. Lol. You might want to watch where they take it, someone might called it totaled. Then you'd have to deal with that.

Or did you have it looked over yet?

 

Cool. Wasn't sure how it was really held on aside from rust lol

 

My insurance had it towed to a local place I had another car fixed there before they are a little pricey but do good work idc if they don't paint it to save money lol its a jeep is not supposed to be pretty

 

I have a 1998 Jeep Cherokee 4.0 lt with a starting problem. When i get into the jeep and turn the key it sometimes, not always, cranks and cranks and cranks... then i stop, turn the key off and turn it on again and it starts right up. Bad injectors? fuel pump? I just changed the spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, and rotor and that didnt do it. Next is replacing injectors.... what do you guys think?

 

Im told this is a bad check valve and nothing to worry about unless you replace the entire fuel assembly(whatever that means). This is popular with 98s(mine does it too). Turn the key over to on, hold for 2 seconds, repeat a few times, then crank it. Itll start right up.

 

That is a bad check valve in the fuel pump but put a fuel gage on it and start it up let it build pressure in the fuel rail and record the reading then shut it off it should drop about 10 psi at frist then watch the gage if it drops more then 20 psi within 15 minutes then you got a bad fuel pump check valve change the pump I had the same problem with mine and I hqd to do the poor man prime which is where you cycle the key to build up pressure in the fuel rail and I bought a new bosch pump and no problems and that was last year

 

1988 Jeep Cherokee Laredo AW4

Transmission bucked going down the freeway at 55, also did it 2-3 more times on a 10mile ride.

Noticed the Trans oil level is at the bottom of the stick. Hoping thats my issue.

Which fluid do I need to get for the AW4 and how much to fill from the bottom of the dipstick?

 

Why not do this? Drain the fluid by pulling the plug in the bottom of the pan. Put 3.75 quarts of Dex/Merc fluid in through the dipstick tube. Check the level to verify using the instructions on the dipstick.

 

Is it odd I'm texting him advice and you are posting advice on here? Lol

 

Where you and I are involved, nothing surprises me!! LOL.

 

I did what you mentioned. But......

Only 1.75qts came out when I removed the plug and let it drain for 20min. I put 3qts in, let it idle for 15-20 min. Checked it and it was a hair above full.

Test drove it after that and in a 5 mile ride it "bucked" once. I'm beginning to think its not trans related. I'm going to start a thread so I don't overdo the ? Thread.

Although the trans fluid was brownish when draining now its a nice red/pink color.

 

I found "fuel system cleaner" I think its liquid, do you think its good for the jeep? Has anyone tried it?

 

Don't take this offensive. But there are a LOT of knock off products in your region. Best bet is to try to find some Seafoam. Or have it ordered somehow. Maybe talk to a reliable shop about their products.

When I was deployed, I saw a bunch of knock off products. Especially being so much closer to China.

 

Ok guys here it goes, I am lifting my jeep soon with a 6.5" long arm rough country kit, a Tom woods SYE and CV shaft. I will also be doing a ZJ tie rod swap along with a Durango power box and a ZJ brake booster (if I am forgetting anything I need let me know) I have stock HP D30 and D35, I plan to eventually do a rear axle swap, re-gear, locker, shafts, ect. My question is can I lightly run 35's off stock or should I stick with 33's until I attend to my axles, it is NOT my DD and I like big tires and lift, I am planning to do some light to medium wheeling mostly in mud and on the trails.

 

Thank you. I found this product at the Mitsubishi dealer, but is there any reliable product to be used on jeep? e.g. from Mobar? I mean, its a liquid which is poured in the fuel tank....