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I got all of the flacky rust off, but there is still some small amount of rust but nothing too bad.
It never starts out bad. Rust sucks more than anything on earth.Originally Posted by ccooper1234
I got all of the flacky rust off, but there is still some small amount of rust but nothing too bad.
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I had to mutilate my last oil filter to get it off and didn't pay attention to see if the gasket on it came off.
Changing my oil now and when I got the old filter off the gasket pictured came with it...
Looks like a filter from days gone by left its O-ring on there! It's supposed to just be flat metal.Originally Posted by Xj88
Is there supposed to be a gasket in the oil filter housing or no?I had to mutilate my last oil filter to get it off and didn't pay attention to see if the gasket on it came off.
Changing my oil now and when I got the old filter off the gasket pictured came with it...
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What year XJ? 97+ is supposed to beep constantly until you fix whatever it's complaining about (key in with the door open, headlights on with engine off and door open are all I encounter)Originally Posted by joaopaulo
does anyone know the place where we can fix or regulate the sound when we forgett to turn off the lights or forgett the key in ignicion ? this because my jeep now after i put the key to start play the sound about 4 or 5 times and its not normal ...earlier i think only played 1 time but now i dont undestand why play repeated , and i dont know the place or where i can fix that....thankyou
CF Veteran
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it never starts out bad. Rust sucks more than anything on earth.
x472027472972927482Originally Posted by bhennessee1
it never starts out bad. Rust sucks more than anything on earth.
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cruiser54
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May 16, 2024
- Join DateAug 2011
- LocationPrescott, Az
- Posts:43,971
- Year1990
- ModelCherokee (XJ)
- Engine4.0
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Liked:1,578 Times in 1,279 Posts
I love Arizona............
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This is a 00. TB and sensors have been cleaned, not replaced.
O2s aren't brought into the equation until after the engine has warmed up. I'd *test* your MAP and TPS, check out the coolant temp sensor too.Originally Posted by NewJerseyXJ609
It feels like I'm getting a slight miss inn my idle ONLY while the engine is warming up. No CEL to speak of. I just can feel it and also watch the tach flutter. It runs like butter when it's warmed up. She sits at 20hg of vacuum at idle. Any ideas? O2 sensors? This is a 00. TB and sensors have been cleaned, not replaced.
When was the last tuneup?
CF Veteran
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x472027472972927482
Hey at least its easy it access those nuts if the welds breakOriginally Posted by a_shirey
x472027472972927482
Moderator of Jeeps
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O2s aren't brought into the equation until after the engine has warmed up. I'd *test* your MAP and TPS, check out the coolant temp sensor too.
When was the last tuneup?
CTS may be easiest to test. Unplug it and drive. If that fixes it, replace the sensor.Originally Posted by salad
O2s aren't brought into the equation until after the engine has warmed up. I'd *test* your MAP and TPS, check out the coolant temp sensor too.
When was the last tuneup?
Moderator of Jeeps
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Hey at least its easy it access those nuts if the welds break
I was thinking that, too.Originally Posted by ccooper1234
Hey at least its easy it access those nuts if the welds break
CF Veteran
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Hey at least its easy it access those nuts if the welds break
If those welds break JCR is getting a piece of my mind. Lol. Originally Posted by ccooper1234
Hey at least its easy it access those nuts if the welds break
Holes were patched...kinda. Entire floor is rusted. Bought another heep.
Newbie
After my exhaust fell off just after the cat the cat fell apart or no doubt had already been destroyed. Anyhow long story short the exhaust shot a fireball at my gas tank and burnt the wiring harness and the rubber fuel lines. So I replaced the wires and the fuel lines and now I am only getting 4 volts to the fuel pump. I have tested the fuel pump and it spools right up when hooked up to the battery.
So any ideas on the reduced voltage, a bad ground maybe?
So any ideas on the reduced voltage, a bad ground maybe?
CF Veteran
Question to someone that rebuild their from DS.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,ca...parttype,10469
Can I just get this and 3 u joint to rebuild the front dS. The center ball assembly is in good shape still and can be reused right??? Can't get a straight answer
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,ca...parttype,10469
Can I just get this and 3 u joint to rebuild the front dS. The center ball assembly is in good shape still and can be reused right??? Can't get a straight answer
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http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,ca...parttype,10469
Can I just get this and 3 u joint to rebuild the front dS. The center ball assembly is in good shape still and can be reused right??? Can't get a straight answer
If you can get the ball and its race out without damaging the piece that it goes in (highly unlikely). Then all you need is that and u joints. I'd just get the whole new piece, I ****ed mine up trying to get the old one out, got the new SPICER replacement part for like 50 dollars from northern driveline.Originally Posted by sycoglitch
Question to someone that rebuild their from DS.http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,ca...parttype,10469
Can I just get this and 3 u joint to rebuild the front dS. The center ball assembly is in good shape still and can be reused right??? Can't get a straight answer
CF Veteran
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If you can get the ball and its race out without damaging the piece that it goes in (highly unlikely). Then all you need is that and u joints. I'd just get the whole new piece, I ****ed mine up trying to get the old one out, got the new SPICER replacement part for like 50 dollars from northern driveline.
I'm trying to find the piece the ball sits in but they don't show for my year. Wasn't sure if it was the same. Ill check northern driveline, thanks and yea is rather get the piece that the ball sits inOriginally Posted by bhennessee1
If you can get the ball and its race out without damaging the piece that it goes in (highly unlikely). Then all you need is that and u joints. I'd just get the whole new piece, I ****ed mine up trying to get the old one out, got the new SPICER replacement part for like 50 dollars from northern driveline.
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If you can get the ball and its race out without damaging the piece that it goes in (highly unlikely). Then all you need is that and u joints. I'd just get the whole new piece, I ****ed mine up trying to get the old one out, got the new SPICER replacement part for like 50 dollars from northern driveline.
Here's a pic of the damage from getting the old race out, and the part number. And the old one is a nice paper weight/conversation piece on my desk.Originally Posted by bhennessee1
If you can get the ball and its race out without damaging the piece that it goes in (highly unlikely). Then all you need is that and u joints. I'd just get the whole new piece, I ****ed mine up trying to get the old one out, got the new SPICER replacement part for like 50 dollars from northern driveline.
