Like this.



Remove the distributor cap and cut a "window" into the side of the distributor cap at the #1 spark plug wire post . The "window" should be large enough to allow easy visual inspection of the position of the distributor rotor at the #1 spark plug wire post. Reinstall the distributor cap.

Install a ¾" wrench or socket onto the vibration damper retaining bolt. Rotate the engine in a clockwise direction until the #1 cylinder is at top dead center. Align the timing mark on the vibration damper with the "0" degree mark on the front cover timing scale. The tip of the distributor rotor should be near the #1 spark plug wire post.

Disconnect the distributor electrical connection. Remove the distributor holddown clamp, holddown bolt and distributor. Remove the distributor cap and rotor.

Place the distributor housing upside down in a soft jaw vise. Scribe a line 1/2 inch from the end of the distributor locating tab. Cut the distributor locating tab at the scribed line with a saw.

Remove any burrs and metal filings from the distributor. Reinstall rotor.

If necessary, using a flat blade screwdriver, turn the oil pump gear drive shaft until the slot is slightly past the 11 o'clock position. The oil pump gear drive shaft is accessible through the distributor mounting bore in the engine block.

Visually align the modified locating tab area of the distributor housing with the holddown clamp bolt hole.

Turn the rotor to the 4 o'clock position.
Lower the distributor into the engine block until it seats. The rotor should now be very close to the 5 o'clock position.

Reinstall the distributor cap with the cutout "window". Rotate the distributor housing until the trailing edge of the distributor rotor tip is just departing from the #1 spark plug wire post terminal .

Reinstall the distributor holddown clamp and bolt.. Reinspect the position of the rotor to the #1 spark plug wire post to insure that it has not moved.

Install the new distributor cap, reconnect the distributor electrical connections.

Revised 07/03/2012

 

Thanks for the help guys. I took it down passed smog but there is a slight misfire/loss of power. the timings spot on but the CO reading was high at 15mph. If it wasnt for the new cat it would have failed. The smog guy said it was probably fuel related. Any suggestions as to what is causing a high CO? Maybe the MAP sensor or clogged injector? Its got new O2 sensor,CPS,TPS and distributor.Thanks Again for the help.

 

The stock injectors are possibly dirty. Best to replace them with later model ones. Programbo here on CF can help you out.

FWIW, the stock injectors were prone to springing leaks esternally and spraying gas on the manifolds, causing engine fires.

 

Any body running clear gearz diff covers? Supposedly some kind of super strong polycarbonate that's tougher the metal diff covers seeing as how my xj only sees mud an never really and rocks at all I'm considering getting one with a rock guard like so I should be fine right?

 

Should be yeah and that's cool! I just don't see why you'd need a clear one? Guess you'll know if your low on fluid and what not lol

 

I'd put that on a strict show jeep but not on mine. My diff is rarely clean enough to even see the color it's spray painted so no point in seeing the internals

 

No "need" for one by themselves there stronger then stock and look pretty bad *** for only $75

 

Wow good price

 

There currently on sale

 

Just checking them out and this came across. Show for sure but not for the trail rig.

 

That's what these are for besides there are no rocks here at all except for the rock garden at the skyjacker shop

 

I don't trust something that warns:
Wash with soap and water only. Chemicals such as brake fluid, gasoline, paint thinner, etc will damage or destroy the look or integrity of your cover.

I'll stick with my Riddler, but that's just me.

 

Didn't see that

 

Lol, that thing wouldn't last one day at rausch

 

I know, but he said he doesn't have any rocks there.