Ok I got a bit of a question, I bought a 1997 jeep cherokee sport with 4.0 automatic, vehicle ran perfectly for 375 miles clear home from Denver, then today (after I washed it) i threw a check engine light for a TPS sensor or MAP sensor. seemed to idle a bit rougher to, so I checked the connections on the sensors to make sure nothing got wet and all was fine. I disconnected the battery(and hooked it back up) and the check engine light was gone, but now it seems not to want to idle decently, will jump between about 950 and 1200, and another interesting thing it does is the voltage will fall off to what appears to be nothing and the check gauges light will come on. I searched a little but didn't find much so any help would be appreciated it do what once though before I washed it, so I am unsure if I'm dealing with one or two problems

 

Ok so I changed the oil a little while ago and bow I have no power until it's been warm for ehhh 5 mins or so. And the oil pressure is 75+ at times. I have a good idea what it could be. But I kinda wanted another opinion. Never had my engine apart yet. Not to excited about doing it bc it's winter time now. But does the str8 six have valve guides? Or does anyone have decent idea what it could be?

 

Hey everyone. I am hoping someone has an idea of what is going on with my 2000 Jeep Cherokee. I just had a new blower and heat sensor put in 2 weeks ago. Neither one was working at all.
So now I have good heat. But, for some reason, that is all I have. It does not matter if I turn it on hot or cold (red or blue) I get heat. I even turned the AC on and STILL.... it only blows out heat.
Any ideas?
Thank you
Lam316
Elderlam@hotmail.com

 

Auto tranny 96 Country 155K. Overheated engine/tranny a while back. Engine is fine - tranny maybe not. Changed fluid and then 2 months later changed out a gallon of fluid and threw in some Lucas Tranny Fix. Remaining problem: when cruising level at 55 with cruise control, torque conv (I think) occasionally wants to "unlock" and rpms jump up about 300 (from 1750 to 2050). I can push down on accelerator and it will lock up again but once it is not accelerating, it tends to unlock again. Doesn't do it all the time - may every other time on freeway - maybe one time in three.
TPS?????? Solenoid???????? Mechanical damage?????????

Thanks in advance.

 

Keep hearing about the interchangability of parts back and forth on the XJ ZJ.
Are the D30 front ends a direct swap (Excluding gear ratio's)?
Got a killer deal on a front and rear axle off a 93 ZJ.
I want the back cause it has the complete disc brake setup but the front will come with it too.
My 99 has had a terrible welding job done to it replacing the lower control arm mount and I was going to replace the whole axle anyways. If the ZJ D30 is a direct swap I may have lucked out.

Yes I did a search. terms are too generic and I get all kinds of hits that tell me squat.

 

Is the voltage Regulator part of the alternator or is is an external part?

 

Hey Dukie Thanks... i need a new dash board becuase most of
the lights does not work... also the distance meter does not work
and the AC and heater cant be moved position to another, now it is on front glass.... so i want to change it with all of the wiring...
the only light i have i dont understand what is the use of it... it is like an arrow orange and it light when i press the throutle... do u know what does that mean...........

 

My 95 did the same thing...It may be related to the resistor located on the passenger side under the dash, near the fan motor. Seems like my resistor went out and caused the fan switch to go out too, or vice versa. Anyway, I got a new resistor for like 5 bucks on line and replaced it, it's got a 4 prong plug, under the plastic cover, you can't miss it. After that I pulled the heat/ac unit out, then cut the old factory plug out and wired each wire individually into the switch (the old plug was toasted!). After that I had all 4 speeds and it doesn't smell like burning wiring anymore...

 

sounds like idler pulley bearing/ and or belt

 

Ya, I agree...it sounds like bearing squal...you should check the under side of the water pump. There is a little pin hole, if it is dripping coolant the bearin seal is bad if not, check other pullies.

Get a can of spray lube(not wd-40) and spray the center of each pully. One at a time, when the sound stops that is the pully/part that needs to be replaced...

Good luck

 

Hello Folks, I have a bit of a problem with my new (new to me) 2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee - No Engine Crank and No Engine Start. Everything work fine when I insert my FOB and swithc to the on position. Lights, radio, window, I hear the fuel pump, but when I move to the start postion, nothing. The Jeep won't attempt to start. It happened to me 4 times before the dealer replaced the Wireless Control Module (WCM) in October 2010. It just happened again on 12/23. I am frustrated with this whole thing. Dealer says they can not diagnose because every time they try to start-it starts! and the diagnostic test they do does not report anything. What can I do? Any way to simply avoid all this wireless-mess and convert to simple key start? Any suggestions on what I should do? Thank you for any advice.

 

I'm fearful that might be the case but nothing was add on.
I just installed a new head.
Full tune up with all new parts.
New ball joints all around.
Rebuild drive shafts.
Brand new $1,000 tires and replacement rims.
New headliner.
New starter.
New battery.
New Pioneer disc player.
All fluids changed including differentials.
Body work is perfect.
New rear bumper.
New Magnaflow exhaust!

I priced similar XJ's selling locally and they want $4,000

I'm going to do battle with the adjuster shortly and won't settle for less than $3,500 !!

 

im guessing its a 5-speed cuz i have that light too, its ur shift light, that tells u when its the most economical time to shift gears...

 

hope u get it let us know.. but dont be too shocked if they laugh at u, mine actually did...

 

Where can I get a new resistor?