Well, as I intend to use it more than once. I'm waiting to at least buy a crafstman. $80.

I gotta wait for funds anyways, I need new trans mount, and motor mounts (gonna buy brown dog) and some drill bits for the RC crossmember.

 

Harbor freights work great. Iv got one in all size drives. Plus they have lifetine warranty on all hand tools. Same warranty as craftsman. The only issue iv had with mine were then needed to be used a few times before the really loosened up nd became perfect.

 

I've had HF things before, just always thought a torque wrench from them would be something to avoid.

 

Honestly their hand tools as in sockets ratchets wrenches and all arent that bad. My wife works at one and i get everything for about 30-40% off and I buy all kinds of stuff. Some of their stuff is cheap junk but you can tell as soon as you pick it up. I plan on getting one of their pro series tool boxes soon. They are so nice and worth the money.

 

Im always trying to find fault with HF because a lot of people talk trash on them but overall Iv had a great experience with them. My little $10 hf angle grinder has done great, just got done using it to do the rear 1/4 cut and fold. Once folded, I tack welded the panels together with my HF 90amp flux core welder. I replaced the flux wire with some decent wire though. The only thing that Im not sure on it my 21g air compressor from them that didnt work last time I tried turning it on. Could be something simple, havnt looked into it yet.

 

Any help guys?

 

I wouldnt think the flare would need removed. I removed my flares and there was one metal bracket directly above the wheel that hooks from the wheel well to the fender. If you can get by until you get to the good welder then attempt to, otherwise the hf welder is worth a shot. My 90amp hf welder is rated up to 3/16 steel. I wouldnt trust it for that thickness but I put it to the test and passed. I welded a rear trans mount in on a fwd car and its holding up great. I know theres a few bolts at the bottom of the fender near the door jam that need to be removed. Also, pop the hood and remove the bolts running along the top of the fender. Lastly, the fender should be bolted to the nose of the jeep. You may need to pop off the little circular clips that secure the plastic splash shield to the backside of the flare, unless you remove the plastic clips that hold the splash shield in the wheel well and remove the fender with the flare and splash shield in one piece.

 

Welded my upper door hinge with everything in place. Have someone hold the door open where it needs to be, and weld it. Might need to remove the check arm to open it wide enough. I took mine out a long time ago when I did the doorless mod.

 

Is there a place to buy factory style coil buckets and control arm mounts? I don't need beefy ones though just the factories

 

No. No one is going to waste time manufacturing thin junk.

What are you trying to do?

 

How long did it take you guys to get your stuff from ruff stuff? Ordered like Tuesday and haven't gotten a shipment confirmation yet.

 

I don't really remember. Tried calling and fussing at Dan?

 

Not yet lol.

Dirtboundoffroad is taking their time it seems too.
Currie shipped same day as did Barnes 4x4

 

Plug in the code scanner and see what comes up and drive to see any real time problems.

 

I did mine with fender on. pull the pin on the door check so it'll open more.
HF welder will do it, don't use their wire it sucks.