No no i totally agree, i was just saying that was my guess. He should clean it and check to see where it leaks from once its all cleaned up

 

I rented one from the parts store, but hf sells the same one. It is the **** for u joints.

 

i searched their website for ball joints and u joints and didnt find anything

 

I saw it on there one day, I'll find it for ya.

 

Hmmm. I'm gonna say no because I'm not exactly sure what you are referring to. Funny you should mention that though because even though this annoying miss had been present since I bought this thing, it did seem to get worse after I replaced the oil pan gasket which did involve removing the distributor. I did get it back in with the #1 plug terminal where it was supposed to be and it started right up with no problems.

 

what i meant is should changing the control arm bushings effect the toe-in toe-out?

 

No

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/automot...cles-4065.html

There's also accessory sets on there with different adaptors and spacers. The one I rented came with all kinds of ****.

 

Oh ok, i was under the impression you said there was one for U joints and ball joints lol but yeah im 99% sure my grandpa has a kit for ball joints.

 

That is for u joints and ball joints. They just have it listed for ball joints. It may not come with the right spacers/ adaptors for u joints.

 

Ahhh... Ok ok... Well i could rent one or use a press to do it easy AF and i will have a lot of other uses for it as well with all the BS i do. Idk, tax time will tell lol

 

I'll spray yo under there. It's hard for me to tell where the oil is coming from because it's also leaking close to the oil pan gasket seal up close to the water pump and the rest of that oil is leaking up behind the engine somewhere that I can't see it very well. It just soaks everything so much. I'll spray it down and try to get a better idea where it's coming from exactly.

 

Okay, I found your article about the distributor. I checked it and it is right where it should be. I did find some motor oil in the distributor which most likely got there when the ccv system was clogged up when I bought it. That problem was solved months ago but apparently the cc pressure pumped oil into the dist. housing. The wires and grommet were a little soft from the oil. I pulled the dist. and completely disassembled it and cleaned everything out with TB spray cleaner. When cleaning the pick-up coil I did find a tiny sliver of metal stuck to the magnet. Not sure if this is significant enough to cause the problem that I'm having. I pulled all the plugs and they still look almost new after a couple months of driving. No vacuum leaks, all new vac hoses and just replaced intake/ exhaust gasket when I put a new exhaust manifold on it. Throttle position sensor came from partsgeek. Bad part? Maybe should have got it from NAPA? Has new fuel filter and air filter, and I have tried a new MAP sensor. About the only sensors that I have NOT replaced are the engine temp sensor on the side of the block, the knock sensor, and the intake air temp sensor.

In the engine wiring harness from the c101 connector down to the o2 sensor, there is this one wire that is wrapped in what looks like light blue foil tape. Any idea what this wire is and why it's wrapped in foil tape? It doesen't look damaged but from all the previous oil leaks under the hood the tape is trying to come unwrapped in a few places.

Possibilities:
ignition coil?
fuel pressure regulator?
ignition switch (bad or dirty contacts???)
ecu "brain box"?
injectors sticking?
cheap ***** autozone plug wires?
aftermarket tachometer from autozone bad???
could there be something in the transmission or drivetrain trying to lock or freeze up??? It doesn't make any noise when it misses other than when it misses really hard and it jerks the slack out of the drivetrain.

If it is a bad injector sticking, what are the upgrade injectors that I can put in without having to change the fuel pressure regulator? I'm not looking for performance, just reliability and driveability.

A buddy of mine has the diagnostic reader for this year Jeep and we've hooked it up several times and it has never shown any trouble codes. Apparently it won't store codes so we are going to try hooking it up and driving for the 50 + miles and see if it will show any errors or malfunctions.

I've been trying to nail this "miss" for almost 8 months now and nothing seems to work. When it misses, most of the time it does it hard enough to jerk the slack out of the drivetrain. I used to think it did it more on bumpy roads or rough terrain but it will do it going down a perfectly smooth highway with no bumps at all.

Everything else on this old Jeep works wonderfully and it runs strong with plenty of power and runs very nicely except for the irritating miss.
I dunno. I'm almost out of things to replace, I'm out of money, and I'm definitely out of patience.

 

I hear a bunch of popping from my front suspension when my steering wheel is at full lock and I am reversing (like when I am parallel parking)

Anyone know what this probably could be?
Sway bar bushings?
Track bar mount?
Shocks?

 

Tighten the track bar mount to frame rail bolts. If you have a 3/8" impact gun, it's better to use it than hand tools.