In my last oil change I used the factory recommended speck: 10-W 30 weight (in high mileage oil)
What is the school of thought on raising the grade using 10-W 40 weight (in High Mile Pensoil)?
FYI just turned 161,000 miles, with oil pressure instrument gauge reading 45 + at highway speed.
I am surprised at the acceleration How could I find out if I had a high power out put engine? is there a VIN group code?

 

What year is your Jeep?

And I wouldn't worry about running 10w-40, I don't think its a big enough difference to cause a problem. Run what you want.

 

I always ran 10w-40 in my 91 mj

 

The "High Output" engines are Chrysler's rework of the 4.0 starting in the 1991 model year. Non-HO are Renix. You can request a build sheet from them, on it you'll see a "PowerTech Inline 6" or some such.

As for oil weight that depends on climate. If it gets cold where you are you should be running a 5w30 or 5w40. Also there is no reason to not run the 5w oils year round. Filter is very important: Skip the cheap ones! WIX/NAPA Gold is a well priced reputable unit. $3 FRAM or store brand special is not.

There are about 8473928492028195 threads on this topic btw.

 

Not gonna happen, I'll just cut/pry/brake them off.

 

Its just like 6 bolts, torx bits (I think that's what they're called I never get that right)

Why are you taking them off anyways?

 

You should only have to take the end caps off of the rail then push the button on the thingy magigy and slide it off. If you can't take the end cap off, say the screw is hidden, then yes the whole rack comes off. Really simply probably 30 seconds each side

 

One of the better videos:
http://www.xjtalk.com/showthread.php?t=7055

I did mine. First one ever. Trouble spots: P/S removal, make sure that bolt in the back of the head is halfway installed, vacuum hose routing upon reinstall.

I took my head, intake and exhaust off as a unit. Used a 2x4 across the engine bay with help and lifted it out. That means you need a friend with you. Maybe two on the install, as you have to guide the head into position slightly tilted.

I'm happy I did my own. I'm much more confident with the how the engine is put together now.

 

What is this? '88 Renix Comanche, broken plug hanging by diff

 

Knock sensor?

 

This tim , on the same harness as your o2 and some other sensor

 

Same harness as O2, yep. That's bottom driver-side of motor? I forget.

 

Yes sir. Knock senor bolts right into the side of the block right above the oil pan. Thens another sensor near the engine mount.(don't know if its a senor or not) my knock sensor had been broken off just like that. $60 and it didn't really make a difference for me.

 

The whole plug disintegrated when I grabbed it, and just a green gel mold was left. Looked like coolant in gel form. It's corroded to hell, but I put it back on the prongs on the block.

 

Like I said it made no difference for me. I wouldnt worry about.