Not to sound too dumb but when you say remove the cable you mean the whole cable right? Also just out of curiosity should i check the Throttle body also?

 

Nah you should just need to disconnect the end at the throttle body. Check/grease the return spring also.

 

At this point I'd snap the cable off of the piece in your picture and move it by hand and see if it moves easily. If it does... the issue is most likely your cable.

 

I've always removed the whole thing but go overboard sometimes. Probably not necessary.

 

Okay so i popped it off and it moves easily and it just went right into the sleeve like this... Now i take it thats normal?

 

Is the pedal on the floor? If it is then that tells me the cable is moving fine. Can you easily pull the cable back out with very little effort? If so, the cable is fine.

You grabbed the cable mount on the throttle body and it rotates easily?

 

99 xj. my left front brake siezed up on me. so i installed a brand new caliper and rotor but that did not solve the problem in fact its even worse. tire just dragged. so im assuming that after i apply brake pressure, the brake fluid is not able to return to the master cylinder. this is only affecting the left front. so i followed the brake line to a unit just beside the master cylinder. all the lines go into here but the LF line only has a small brass fitting befor it. is this a one way valve??? could it be my problem?? help im stuck and so is my brake.

 

Yes it is and the cable mount moves easily with the slightest touch

 

Then I can't tell you without being there.

 

Nope don't have a heat detecting gun

 

well damn maybe its just the weather i don't know! But i do know i learned alot and thanks for all yalls help!

 

No problem.

 

This may seem obvious but make sure there's nothing holding up/blocking the pedal, like a floormat in my case.

 

I've got a light knock that I can sometimes feel through the steering wheel when steering lightly.

I haven't been able to replicate it whilst stationary, and there's a chance that it also happens on bumps, although I'm not yet sure.

Any thoughts!?

 

Well crap. Got the new passenger window/door lock control module in and my door locks still don't work. I can hear the relay in the new control module clicking, but nothing happens at the actuators.

At first the rear hatch actuator moved about 3-4 times, but then nothing. I checked the fuse and it is good.

Do I have a short that would cause the relay to click off thus not sending the signal to the actuators?

I'm about to throw in the towel on this one.

For those late to the party, I have checked all 5 actuators and replaced two bad one. The rear and the passenger door.