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Window-lock out bypass (solves the issues of window switches not working)

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Old Jun 29, 2010 | 10:29 AM
  #31  
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Default The way I understand it...

I though about the paper clip corroding and making a bad connection over time..... fire??? well... So I spliced the wires together this weekend.

I took the tan and yellow wires from in front of the the plug and stripped a quarter inch of insulation then twisted them together. Then I took the tan and yellow wires from in back of the plug and did the same thing.

Then I took the two wires from the front of the plug and the two from the back and crimped them together with a connector and they now work perfectly.

An easy, safe fix.
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Old Jun 29, 2010 | 06:20 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Skipper
I though about the paper clip corroding and making a bad connection over time..... fire??? well... So I spliced the wires together this weekend.

I took the tan and yellow wires from in front of the the plug and stripped a quarter inch of insulation then twisted them together. Then I took the tan and yellow wires from in back of the plug and did the same thing.

Then I took the two wires from the front of the plug and the two from the back and crimped them together with a connector and they now work perfectly.

An easy, safe fix.
do you have to do it on both sides of the connector
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Old Jun 29, 2010 | 07:03 PM
  #33  
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heres a link with pics on the correct way to do this without that paper clip for those of you who want to do it properly!

http://soxja.org/images/pics/Bypass/Bypass.html
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Old Jul 1, 2010 | 11:03 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by 00XJ
do you have to do it on both sides of the connector
Yes you do. Strip and twist the tan and yellow from the front and back of the connector and use a crimp connector to put the four wires together.
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Old Jul 1, 2010 | 06:33 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Skipper
Yes you do. Strip and twist the tan and yellow from the front and back of the connector and use a crimp connector to put the four wires together.
ok...to you connect tan from front to tan from back....im confused.....and i suck at electrical work
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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 03:44 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by 00XJ
ok...to you connect tan from front to tan from back....im confused.....and i suck at electrical work
You need to put the jumper across the tan and yellow wire, completing the circuit.

Here's the finished pic from storm101's link.
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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 07:12 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by cobiray
You need to put the jumper across the tan and yellow wire, completing the circuit.

Here's the finished pic from storm101's link.
i read his link and that didnt clerify any i guess people will just have to ask for me to roll there windows down
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Old Jul 3, 2010 | 07:33 AM
  #38  
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all you need to do to fix this goes as follows

1. Use the pics provided to find the correct plug that has the tan yellow and black wires.


2. Connect the tan and yellow wires together. 2 quick spice connectors and a small piece of wire works good as shown above. That's all.
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Old Jul 4, 2010 | 03:45 PM
  #39  
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I just did something similar to mine today instead of the paper clip i ran a jumper from the tan(hot when key in acc) to the power side of a lighted switch, the ran the yellow(hot when window switch is operated) then grounded the switch now when i turn on the jeep the light comes on and lets me know my windows are unlocked turn the sw. off and lock the windows
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Old Jul 4, 2010 | 09:06 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by ol"blue
The connector for the other windows is under the carpet and it sometimes gets corroded. Cleaning it can usually remedy the problem and keep the window lock-out switch functional.
Can you tell me where? and what it looks like?
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Old Jul 4, 2010 | 09:11 PM
  #41  
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For those who do not like the paper clip idea, try a tap splice like the one in the link below, you will have to clean out a bit of plastic for both wires to fit but once you do that you can slide both wires in, press the blade in and then close the cover. No exposed wires. If you ever want to remove it you just grab the blade with a pair of needle nose, pull, remove the plastic piece and rap some tape around the very small slice in the insulation of both wires.

This is kind of like the photo above, just with one splice after cleaning out the plastic bulkhead that prevents two complete wires to pass through.

Amazon.com: Quick Splice Wire Tap Connector 16-14 Gauge (Blue) - 100 Pack: Automotive Amazon.com: Quick Splice Wire Tap Connector 16-14 Gauge (Blue) - 100 Pack: Automotive

Most of you have probably seen these with trailer wiring, or stereos.

EDIT: I just did the above, all the windows work now, even the 4 year old's. He is pretty good about listening though so it won't be a problem. Thanks for the quick tip.

Last edited by Dugualla; Jul 4, 2010 at 09:37 PM.
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Old Jul 12, 2010 | 10:56 PM
  #42  
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I'll have to try this tomorrow.

As a side thought, is there any way to wire the windows to be hot all the time? Not just when started or in "on" position.
Just an idea...
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Old Jul 13, 2010 | 12:03 PM
  #43  
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This is great for a work around.

But, If I want to fix it correctly what do I need to do? How do I remove the door controls and replace the part/parts that are bad?

Dealers want to much money to fix. Trying to do it myself.

Thanks
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Old Jul 13, 2010 | 05:08 PM
  #44  
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hi, i have a 98 2.5 dl right hand drive over here in ireland doing the same thing,just wondering if the wires will be on my driver side or not?
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Old Jul 14, 2010 | 01:21 PM
  #45  
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Thanks for the Tip, Saved me having to tear apart the door panel. I Stripped each wire about 1/2" Without cutting them ! Then wirewrapped them together with a length of #20 bare Wire and soldered the connection... Worked Great !
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