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Window-lock out bypass (solves the issues of window switches not working)

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Old Apr 30, 2011 | 10:25 PM
  #61  
gms0623's Avatar
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From: Crystal Lake, IL
Year: 2001
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Originally Posted by freegdr
pretty sure power comes into drivers door then goes to other doors thus no power when door off,as for the jumper b4plug
K thanks dude
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Old May 4, 2011 | 11:51 AM
  #62  
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I Read This Thread And It Helped Me Out Tremendously. I Was Getting Sick Of Rolling Down Everyones Window. I Used The Paper Chip As A Tester First, Then Butt Connected The Wires, Just To Be Safe. Thanks






Bravo Zulu Seal Team Six!
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Old May 5, 2011 | 03:38 PM
  #63  
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From: Staten Island NYC
Year: 2001
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absolutely love this write up ive been having this problem with my windows since i bought my jeep and i came across this post n just fix my problem windows work great now ty for the write up
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Old May 9, 2011 | 08:28 AM
  #64  
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that is a great and simple fix to a common issue i used a splice connetor to fix mine AWSOME
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Old May 17, 2011 | 09:59 AM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by xer0
Not my write up but the question always comes up and should be stickyed and i feel this is the easiest fix
Great tip but what kind of socket does it take to get rear nut off that tiny stud.
Thanks in advance
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Old May 17, 2011 | 10:38 AM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by ncjeep2000
Great tip but what kind of socket does it take to get rear nut off that tiny stud.
Thanks in advance
11mm on 97+ if you can get that far in there, I just broke it out
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Old May 31, 2011 | 09:01 AM
  #67  
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I just did this today. Now i don't have to hear the wife *****. thanks alot guys.
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Old Jul 25, 2011 | 06:49 PM
  #68  
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I just performed this jump and it worked flawlessly. Thanks brother you are a stress saver,,....
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Old Jul 26, 2011 | 10:29 AM
  #69  
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From: Johnsonville, South Carolina
Year: 1998
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Default ok just to clarify

If I jump the yellow with the tan this will resolve my issue, I have first taken my original controller apart (RPITA by the way to get apart {even more PITA to get back together and have the mirror control in tact}) then went and bought 4 drivers side controllers from the junk yard and none of them have resolved my issue, I have spent 65.00 on parts and a .10 connector could have fixed my problem. LOL

What exactly has gone faulty here or does anyone really know??

I assumed the drivers side controller but maybe I am thinking wrong here, didnt think the odds of picking up 4 from my LJY would all have the same problem without some sort of recall from back in the day on these things.
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Old Jul 26, 2011 | 12:39 PM
  #70  
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Year: 2000
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Originally Posted by Topaz45
If I jump the yellow with the tan this will resolve my issue, I have first taken my original controller apart (RPITA by the way to get apart {even more PITA to get back together and have the mirror control in tact}) then went and bought 4 drivers side controllers from the junk yard and none of them have resolved my issue, I have spent 65.00 on parts and a .10 connector could have fixed my problem. LOL

What exactly has gone faulty here or does anyone really know??

I assumed the drivers side controller but maybe I am thinking wrong here, didnt think the odds of picking up 4 from my LJY would all have the same problem without some sort of recall from back in the day on these things.
Yep those are the two. Look at picture on first page. Its a very common issue.
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Old Sep 9, 2011 | 10:16 AM
  #71  
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effin A i've got a 98 and 2k both with this issue i just took the switch apart to find it was the circut board...so after searching here finding this, problem solved....i went a little less crude (granted scotch locks and a jumper are still hack) lol
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Old Sep 16, 2011 | 05:30 PM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by Dugualla
For those who do not like the paper clip idea, try a tap splice like the one in the link below, you will have to clean out a bit of plastic for both wires to fit but once you do that you can slide both wires in, press the blade in and then close the cover. No exposed wires. If you ever want to remove it you just grab the blade with a pair of needle nose, pull, remove the plastic piece and rap some tape around the very small slice in the insulation of both wires.

This is kind of like the photo above, just with one splice after cleaning out the plastic bulkhead that prevents two complete wires to pass through.

Amazon.com: Quick Splice Wire Tap Connector 16-14 Gauge (Blue) - 100 Pack: Automotive

Most of you have probably seen these with trailer wiring, or stereos.

EDIT: I just did the above, all the windows work now, even the 4 year old's. He is pretty good about listening though so it won't be a problem. Thanks for the quick tip.
Just found one of these in my tool box.
Check out my albums and you'll see me fixing this same problem.
Works great now. Wife doesn't have to ask anymore. It's a two door so the passengers in the back are SOL.
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Old Sep 16, 2011 | 05:38 PM
  #73  
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I did this a couple months ago. I used the bladed connector too. Worked out nicely.
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Old Sep 16, 2011 | 11:24 PM
  #74  
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This has been a problem for a couple weeks! I followed the steps and in about 10 minutes everything is working...Thanks!!!
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Old Sep 19, 2011 | 01:26 PM
  #75  
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i went out and did this today. i just spliced all the wires together and wrapped them up. i feel thats better than just a paper clip sitting in there.
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