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Window-lock out bypass (solves the issues of window switches not working)

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Old Jul 14, 2010 | 04:47 PM
  #46  
cubanchris81's Avatar
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From: Dover PA
Year: 1998
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Engine: 4.0L Power Tech I-6
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Thanks man glad to see someone doin some investigating. I was lookin at switch in door today & even though the switch housing has phillip screws I still couldn't get the darn thing apart without fear of breaking it. Was my first attempt. Came home jumped on forum read your thread used a piece of stranded copper 14awg wire & wire nuted splice before plug works great.
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Old Aug 1, 2010 | 01:09 AM
  #47  
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Default Wiring noob

Quick question because I'm horrible when it comes to electrical wiring.

I went ahead and tried to follow this tutorial to the best of my ability but ended up making too many snips. What I have is the tan/yellow wires from BOTH ends of the plug, snipped, stripped, and all 4 wound together in a big wire nut, no exposed wires from the wire nut, then wrapped well in electrical tape. Then the black wire connecting at the plug like normal.

Other than this being an absolute horrible solution and not looking pretty, is this at all an electrical hazard with 4 wires touching at the same point in a screw nut? I'm not sure if these wires carry a strong current or what. But am i gonna catch fire?
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Old Aug 1, 2010 | 07:16 AM
  #48  
ol"blue's Avatar
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Year: 2004
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Originally Posted by xer0
Not my write up but the question always comes up and should be stickyed and i feel this is the easiest fix
Originally Posted by jayjohnson88
Quick question because I'm horrible when it comes to electrical wiring.

I went ahead and tried to follow this tutorial to the best of my ability but ended up making too many snips. What I have is the tan/yellow wires from BOTH ends of the plug, snipped, stripped, and all 4 wound together in a big wire nut, no exposed wires from the wire nut, then wrapped well in electrical tape. Then the black wire connecting at the plug like normal.

Other than this being an absolute horrible solution and not looking pretty, is this at all an electrical hazard with 4 wires touching at the same point in a screw nut? I'm not sure if these wires carry a strong current or what. But am i gonna catch fire?
No you're not gonna' catch fire. What you did is just a more involved job of doing the same thing as the "paper-clip fix".
And Welcome to CF!
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Old Aug 2, 2010 | 11:42 AM
  #49  
Graham Crackers's Avatar
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Year: 1999
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Engine: 4.0L I-6
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So. I've done the paper-clip thing about 5 times, it works, but then after a week the windows stop working again. I eventually decided to bridge the wires with a wire I got from the hardware store that wasn't quite as thick (that was probably my downfall) - that worked for a couple weeks. UNTIL my window locks became possessed and starting locking themselves every 5 seconds. Anyone have any ideas on a fix? Thanks in advance.
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Old Aug 3, 2010 | 08:30 AM
  #50  
Inline6's Avatar
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I think it goes back to a post I made a few weeks ago on this thread.

Is there any information on fixing this correctly? I understand that this works. But, I am looking to fix it correctly. I have tried to get to the switches in the door but I feel I am going to break it.

Has anyone fixed it to original? And how on earth do you get to the switches in the door?

Thanks in advanced.
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Old Nov 19, 2010 | 06:39 AM
  #51  
TonyB's Avatar
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From: Lenoir City, TN
Year: 1994
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So no one has a the fix for the <96 or whatever years?
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Old Jan 11, 2011 | 07:45 PM
  #52  
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Default window-lock out

hey thanks for this!!
i feel so hopeful. i even think i can figure how to do this myself with the diagram!
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Old Jan 11, 2011 | 10:45 PM
  #53  
toxic's Avatar
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From: MN
Year: 2001
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Great info!
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Old Jan 11, 2011 | 10:56 PM
  #54  
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From: Greenville S.C.
Year: 1992
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man wish I had known that.
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Old Jan 16, 2011 | 12:19 PM
  #55  
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Aaaand Cherokeeforum.com simplifies my life yet again....
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Old Apr 30, 2011 | 03:04 PM
  #56  
gggg's Avatar
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Default awesome job man!

Works excellent! I just "X" soldered the wires. I suppose a vampire tap quick connect would work better! Anyway awesome! Works! A+
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Old Apr 30, 2011 | 03:56 PM
  #57  
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Year: 2001
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Thank God for this I didn't want to rip my door up ... done in under 5 min and works great

Last edited by UN150N; Apr 30, 2011 at 04:01 PM.
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Old Apr 30, 2011 | 04:01 PM
  #58  
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From: Crystal Lake, IL
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Engine: 4.0L I6
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Hey guys, kind of a strange question... ive tried the paper clip thing a few times and it has never worked for me at all... if i bridge the wires should it be on the door side or the car side of the connector?? and ive made my doors removable, but strangely when i have no doors the rear windows still dont work themselves... can i bridge the wires on the car side of the connector and it will work? or should i grab the door side of the connector from the jy and then bridge that, and plug it in when doorless?
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Old Apr 30, 2011 | 05:31 PM
  #59  
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Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
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Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
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pretty sure power comes into drivers door then goes to other doors thus no power when door off,as for the jumper b4plug
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Old Apr 30, 2011 | 05:32 PM
  #60  
freegdr's Avatar
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Originally Posted by gms0623
Hey guys, kind of a strange question... ive tried the paper clip thing a few times and it has never worked for me at all... if i bridge the wires should it be on the door side or the car side of the connector?? and ive made my doors removable, but strangely when i have no doors the rear windows still dont work themselves... can i bridge the wires on the car side of the connector and it will work? or should i grab the door side of the connector from the jy and then bridge that, and plug it in when doorless?
is there power at the wires you jumping if theres no power you not jumping anything
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