2001 XJ. I-6. Stock height. Pretty soon I'll be dropping my oil pan and replacing my rear main seal. Last leaks of the big four (already done the rocker arm cover and oil filter adapter O-rings).

Anything else to look for while I'm in there? Any other major wear items? I'll be removing the inspection plate to check the flex plate, but what's your thoughts on the oil pump? I don't have any indicators that it's giving problems, but is it worth replacing while I'm down there? Oil pressure is fine, oil changes have always been regular intervals, current mileage 181k.

Oh, and anybody with a LP Dana 30...does it make getting the pan out more difficult? I've seen a few people talk about using a bottle jack to press the axle down, but that seems a little dangerous. Any tips on that potential problem?

Thanks for any advice, especially if it's something you've personally done.

 

At most you'll need to drop your drag link and transmission cooler lines to get clearance.

Do your oil pump while you're in there. It's cheap enough - just do it. Don't listen to that "lifetime part" crap a lot of people try to spew. You can get one for like $60-80.

 

For sure the oil pump with a new pump screen, very cheap parts. Also Timing Chain and Gears, also cheap. Tools to remove balancer can be rented for free at O Riellys.



Mike

 

My plan is to just disconnect the front shocks, and change the seal and gasket for about $30. Undo steering components as needed...(no extra $ to burn/invest right now)

 

I would not change the pump unless there is a problem with it. They don't commonly go bad. A good one is better than a possibly defective new one IMHO.


Oil pan gasket and RMS.

The tranny cooler lines can be pulled back enough for clearance without the need to disconnect them.

 

Thanks for the responses guys.

For those who recommend replacing the pump, timing chain, etc. have any of you had to do it on your XJs yet? Not asking to be a *****, but I figure first hand advice is better than general internet advice. The parts may be cheap, but the job may be a real PITA. A "let sleeping bears sleep kinda" thing.

Have any of your oil pumps or timing chains failed or given you issues? Do you know of a general failure window (mileage-wise)?

 

My Brown 90 with 282K is hummen fine, no oil gauge though. My hill about always triggers the E-fan (218* or so), and the light never blinks at idle. Timing chain problems very rarely turn up here on the forum. You might inspect your front pulley..they separate sometimes....

 

It is up to you and to anyone with their own experienc, but I have always been told and also learned to "not replace if it isn't broken". Just my two cents but I understand the idea as it can be a PITA to pull some of these parts.

 

I bought my Jeep for 1200.00 with 161,000 miles on it. It had been abused. The rear main seal was leaking and I had low oil pressure. My engine had lots of sludge in it. After replacing the valve cover gasket and cleaning out sludge on the top end I pulled the oil pan.


My oil pump pick up was "Full" of hardened sludge. I replaced the pump with a new pickup tube and screen along with the rear main seal. I looked at the timing chain and it had an excessive amount of slope to it. I replaced it also.


My oil pressure is back to normal on cold startup and hot running. I have put over 2000 miles on it since. This was just my experience. You vehicle may or may not need it. But this is what I did with my oil pan off.


Mike

 

Thanks Mike. I appreciate that. Mine's had at least two previous owners so who knows what I'll find in the bottom of that pan. I'm considering using Gunk's Motor Flush before I drain everything in the hopes that any heavy build up finds its way into the pan so I can clean it out. I'll check the filter screen while in there, chain too.

 

Just "general info". In the old days before HD oil (High Detergent), we would find insane sludge. One (Chev 350) I saw, the valve covers were packed solid with only room for the rockers to move. You can actually wash your hands with today's oil. It keeps stuff suspended "in solution" so it ends up in the filter. Sludge would be the result of serious neglect. The detergent breaking down is a big reason we change it every year! (whoops, did I say that?)

In the AW4 automatic trans, it's highly recommended you just let the detergent work on a neglected, dirty trans. (just change often, like with oil changes). After a number it will stay pink. Power flushing or hitting it hard might free chunks of crud that could cause real trouble.

I myself wont bother with additives, I'll just check the screen, clean the pan of course, can always change the oil.

 

On my 97 XJ, while the head was at the cylinder head shop, I dropped the pan and pulled the front cover to change gaskets and seals since it was leaking from the front cover and rear main seal. Not a lot, but since the Jeep was down anyway, I figured I'd do it. While the cover was off, I found the chain to be near the maximum allowable slack so I changed it. I also found a bolt in the oil pan, from the oil pump, so I put it back in and torqued it down. My oil pick up screen looked brand new.

 

Do you check the timing chain slack similar to how you'd check slack in the drive belt...deflection between the pulleys? How much deflection is allowable?