phillims

Srry if this has been asked a hundred time before, but I swear I looked.

Got my '93 XJ about a month ago, ~130k miles, stock DD. It has no major issues as it sits, and I don't want to make anything worse (I have come across many of the "I just did X, and now it's broke" threads).

My question is what things would you experts recommend Doing/Not Doing (maintenance)? I plan on keeping it as my DD for at least a year before any significant mods. I don't plan on any off roading until then.

My plan was to get the eng and underbody steam cleaned to help identify any leaks. She currently does not leave a puddle, but does have some, what I'm learning "normal" wetness around the valve cover and some drips on the underbody, can't tell if it's the T case of the oil filter adapter. I've read the threads about the mod to get rid of the adapter, but think a new seal may be my best short term fix.

The PO only had her for a year as a hunting truck, I was told the PO before that had most scheduled maintenance (MX) done at a shop.
I have run some seafoam through just the tank, I have the 703 injectors waiting to rebuild.

My thought was to change and flush all the fluids, just to get to a starting point, but I'm wondering if I shouldn't just leave well enough alone. I can't afford it to go down.

So, if you were somewhat mechanically inclined, this was your first Jeep, and you couldn't afford any down time, what would you DO, and what would you NOT do?

thanks in advance, you guys are great.

The Blacksmith

all fluids. Never take anyones word for it.

You can also run seafoam thru the vacuum line at the brake booster.
After you do the seafoam (not before) do the basics, like cap, rotor, wires, plugs, air filter.

change tranny, difs and xfer case fluids. Then youll have a basis.

tjwalker

Couldn't agree more. Fluids are the lifeblood of the vehicle and dollar for dollar, are your BEST investment on the reliability and longevity of your XJ.

Oil and filter, coolant (and new high quality Jeep or Stant SuperStat 195 degree thermostat), transmission (just drain the pan; 3-4 quarts and refill with Dex/Merc III compatible fluid, not ATF+4), differentials, transfer case.

Fresh Champion copper plugs gapped to .035, new quality plug wires, distributor cap and rotor. Inspect cooling hoses and replace all of em if there is a question; there are just a handful of hoses on the XJ.

Start a notebook or spreadsheet with everything you do. You can never remember all of it. Good to be able to check back when necessary.

Good luck and enjoy your '93!

phillims

So, no flush of the tranny, just the pan. I have heard a qt of tranny fluid into the oil, run a few min then change. What do you guys think of that technic? And no flush of the master cylinder.

I would like eventually to do the MS and rear disk swap, so I figure that would be the time to flush the brake system.

I’m trouble shooting some of the standard minor problems to get her back to factory, cruise control, intermit wiper, driver seat lean, head liner, NSS needs cleaning, and 4wd lights. I don’t really consider these mods, just putting her back where she should be.

After I get my Montero running again, I want to start down the mod road (reluctantly, cause I know it never ends).

I want a little lift, S10 w/ ZJ coils, about 2”. I’ll do the 703 injector swap and put on the ZJ alt I have waiting.

Blacksmiths fabs have inspired me to get a welder, and then Watch Out!

I am looking for an early factory external spare carrier, I fly all over the country and have taken to bringing my tools and hitting as many of the “you pull it’s” as I can. Going today to check out an ’87, ’88, and a ’91 in Sioux City.

Thank you guys again for your very knowledgeable inputs. This forum has 100x the stuff I could ever find for my Montero. I will be putting my money where my mouth is and becoming a supporter, and I would encourage anyone who has saved a s*** ton of money chasing blind lead with info from this site to do the same.

DFlintstone

x3/\, All the fluids. Plus you can learn about the condition of things from the old fluid. Hit the zirks. Front end and drive-lines. You might adjust the rear brake shoes. Is the pedal nice and solid? Parked in the driveway stomp the brakes as if your life depended on it. Better place to find a weak brake line than on the freeway. All machines come with a specific quantity of "magic smoke" inside. If this smoke escapes it's very expensive and time consuming to put it back. Maintaining fluids and lubricants is a great first line of defense.

mentalbreakdown00

ALL FLUIDS, never take anyone's word for anything. This would include brake fluid, p/s fluid, engine, trans, front and rear diff, xfer case, coolant. I would personally pull the pan and do a filter to see how much stuff is in the pan or on the magnet. I would also at least check if not replace cap, rotor, wires, plugs, air filter, and fuel filter. Check the condition of the coolant hoses, and belt too. Check the front end for play. And pull at least one wheel front and back and check the condition of the brakes, but it is better to look at them all.

phillims

Supper! I pulled the wheels this weekend, pads/drums/roters looked good. question though, my Montero had self adjusting rear brakes, although I never trusted them, suposedly every time you drove it in reverse it would adjust. Are the XJ just manual adjust?

I will add the tranny filter and any other fluids to the list and start my spread sheet. Just what I need another spread sheet! lol I've been wanting to start one for a long time to avoid the "didn't I just change that?".

DFlintstone

Mine don't seem to auto adjust, but I rarely use the E-brake. It might if i did.

Gorillaxj

they claim that they do, but no one actually drives in reverse long enough to make it actually adjust, most drum brakes are ok if adjusted properly evey 30k miles. But I would recommend every 15-20k miles if you can do it yourself.

as stated above fluids are a great place to start, same with hoses, belts, t/stat, plugs wires, filters... its also a god idea to shake down the motor mounts and drive-lines checking u-joints ect.