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what temp does your xj run?

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Old Apr 14, 2013 | 07:39 PM
  #31  
MACherokee's Avatar
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Just a tad under 210 all the time... 2000 XJ Limited
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Old Apr 14, 2013 | 07:49 PM
  #32  
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~210 just like the engineers wanted.

Guys with 150 and 180... fix your stuff lol
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Old Apr 14, 2013 | 09:02 PM
  #33  
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From: The Republic of TEXAS
Year: 1998
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Since u live in Canada, where it gets really cold, how/why would a motor actually run 210F with a 195F stat with the heater running? At 210F actual, a 195F stat should at, or very close to wide open, no? If the 195F stat is at or close to wide open, and it's freezing cold, how can coolant actually reach 210?
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Old Apr 14, 2013 | 09:07 PM
  #34  
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just a tad above 210
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Old Apr 14, 2013 | 10:30 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by salad
~210 just like the engineers wanted.

Guys with 150 and 180... fix your stuff lol
there is nothing wrong with my jeep running a 180* thermostat in the summer. i still consistently run 195-210*, its a bit more assurance to know that i can wheel for hours and not have a heat soak issue.
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Old Apr 14, 2013 | 10:32 PM
  #36  
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about 210....after the new radiator went in...lol
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Old Apr 14, 2013 | 10:35 PM
  #37  
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I have a new radiator,water pump and thermostat. Boiled it over a couple of times while sitting in line for death in a cup. Got a new volvo pressure tank cap, no longer a problem. I have to try and run up to 210. 4L automatic
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Old Apr 15, 2013 | 07:21 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Mr. Pink
there is nothing wrong with my jeep running a 180* thermostat in the summer. i still consistently run 195-210*, its a bit more assurance to know that i can wheel for hours and not have a heat soak issue.
Heat soak has next to nothing to do with your thermostat. Correct engine bay ventilation is what you need. Your Jeep is still running in the 210 neighborhood because the rest of the cooling system is engineered around that temperature. Unless you convert to a clutchless mechanical fan or always-on electrics you're just wasting money on the risk of aftermarket thermostats. Running the correct temperature range in the 4.0, like other fuel injected engines, is important for setting the AFR and getting halfway decent fuel economy and emissions. Running cold causes warmup issues with the computer and really just wastes gas (and possibly fouls spark plugs).

I realize it's only 15 degrees but it can make a difference. Not to mention you just admitted that this 180 degree thermostat has done absolutely nothing for you...
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Old Apr 15, 2013 | 07:32 AM
  #39  
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195* thermostat, I've been running right at that or 200, have yet to go above. Also haven't had the XJ during the hot summer months yet.
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Old Apr 24, 2013 | 04:07 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by djb383
No, I don't have a link or scientific studies.....so I'll re-phrase......over the years, all I have is 1st hand experience comparing factory gauges with aftermarket gauges. I've used AutoMeter, Stewart Warner and a few other brands of analog gauges on older (non-computer/carbed vehicles) as well as ScanGauge, Daytona Digital and General Motors digital gauges on later model (computer/EFI vehicles).

Most aftermarket gauges (analog or digital) will "tell it like it is or "what's actually happening". Most factory gauges are purposely rigged to display +/- the middle of the gauge as long as factory "normal" parameters are being met. This keeps the owner/driver from bugging the shop foreman with "the needle is pointing way different today than it did yesterday".

There's no way any water cooled motor will run the same temp in freezing cold weather/heater roaring, as it will in triple digit weather/air conditioning roaring. For the most part though, a factory gauge will point to +/- the middle throughout the 4 seasons as long as normal factory parameters are met. Aftermarket gauges aren't rigged for any parameters, other than their min/max range.

I'm not saying factory gauges r worthless, but after plugging in a aftermarket digital gauge/scanner into the ALDL port under the dash of various vehicles (including the XJ) and observing digital readings under all kinds of driving conditions (hot/cold ambient, heater/a/c roaring, towing, etc.), one will wonder about the factory dash gauge readings.
Especially on a Ford. They put oil pressure gauges with switch senders to read mid-scale as long as there's any oil pressure at all. Seems like fraud to me. Not surprising from a company that sold $25,000 Rangers and Explorers like hotcakes that had unadjustable caster/camber unless you spent $300 putting in a kit... and almost every one of them wallows down the road eating tires every 20,000 miles unless you do. And I'm not talking about the old twin i-beam design that pretty much never needed aligned.
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Old Apr 24, 2013 | 04:13 PM
  #41  
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Mine runs at 366 Kelvin
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Old Apr 24, 2013 | 04:40 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by djb383
Since u live in Canada, where it gets really cold, how/why would a motor actually run 210F with a 195F stat with the heater running? At 210F actual, a 195F stat should at, or very close to wide open, no? If the 195F stat is at or close to wide open, and it's freezing cold, how can coolant actually reach 210?
a thermostat varies by 10 to 20 degrees
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Old Apr 27, 2013 | 04:22 PM
  #43  
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210 had even blown out my bottom rad hose no coolant still at 210 lol!
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Old Apr 27, 2013 | 04:45 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by bruni86xj
a thermostat varies by 10 to 20 degrees
.....not a top quality Stant SuperStat, they're tested to with-in 2-3 degrees. I've used digital
gauges over the past few years that verify this.
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Old Apr 27, 2013 | 05:08 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by minni-me
210 had even blown out my bottom rad hose no coolant still at 210 lol!
Whaaaaat?
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