StephenG

I just changed the starter on my 93 Cerokee and I got the bottom bolt, but in the process I lost my top bolt... My luck. Just need to know what size the start bolt is, thanks!

okcjeeper

The top bolt is the same size as the bolt that holds the rear bumper mount to the body. You have two mount that has 4 bolts and that's what you need. Ask me how I know, I asked the very same question.. I figure the factory bumper mount doesn't need all 8 anyways..

schmaunty

Wouldn't know what size the bottom one is too eh? Kinda been driving without that one for a while

5-90

Heh.

The thread is either 3/8"-16 OR M10-1.5.

Early XJs can have one of each. Do not ask how I know this...

I find it much easier to put a stud in one of the holes - I'll usually thread it into the starter motor proper, which makes it easier to put the damned thing in place and not have it land on my nose while I'm reaching for screws...

LocTite #242 or equivalent may be considered necessary.

The starter motor itself should have the hole threaded M10-1.5. The transmission is the "Even odds" part - I know the AW4 can go either way, the BA-10 can as well - but I think the AX-15 is fairly consistent about being M10 as well.

davida

I agree with 5-90 the stud route is the way to go, use some semi (not perm) locktite (or Maalox (yes the stomach medicine)) to keep the nuts on.

davida

Sorry 5-90 did not see you already touched on the loctite!

schmaunty

Thanks for the help! I'll get on it right away

5-90

No worries - I've just dealt with enough people that had loose starter motor screws (it's a quick fix, doesn't cost much to have me do it, and makes me a useful amount of money...) that I should mention it.

RULE: Never install a screw dry! In my garage, I keep:

Clear nail polish (very small screw threadlocker, but the screws can be moved.)
White nail polish (for bringing out witness marks, timing marks, and alignment marks.)
LocTite #222 (machine screws #10, #12, and 1/4")
LocTite #242 (machine screws 1/4"-1")
LocTite #271 (exhaust manifold screws)
LocTite #272 (anything over 1")
Nickel never-seez (general purpose. Lower installation torque by 50%.)
Copper never-seez (for electrical or high-heat applications. Ditto.)
PTFE Paste (useful for cooling screws, or hardware that goes into or through the cooling jacket. Coat the whole shank on carbon steel screws, if you're not going to replace them with brass, bronze, or CRES. Lower installation torque by 10%)
And, plenty of oil and grease of all varieties (even Type F transmission fluid. I don't run across many old Ford autos anymore, but it also makes a good ersatz hand cleaner when I run out of the good stuff...) Screws with a "clean, dry" spec lubed with engine oil or chassis grease get installation torque values lowered by 20-25%

Oh - and cyanoacrylate "gel" style glue - for those quick little "First Aid" moments. It's bad form to bleed on your work, and blood promotes rust (haemoglobin is just a complex, organic form of rust anyhow.) CA closes up those little cuts and scrapes quickly, and kills germs to boot! I should have a lot more scars on my hands than I do - the only scar I really have is on my left index finger, but that was from bali-song training (and I stitched that one up myself. Did a good job - finger works well, and you can't tell it's there unless I show it to you...)

And yes, the "reduce installation torque values" comes in handy when "extending the capacity" of your torque wrenches. Don't have a torque wrench that goes to 200 pound-feet? Gotta put on a front stub shaft nut? That nut gets 185 pound-feet - coat the stub shaft threads with never-seez, and torque to 92-93 pound-feet instead. Just as good - and it's worked for me plenty of times before (I wouldn't suggest it if I didn't do it myself.)

I've heard that the new never-seez lubes don't require torque value modification, and I really should look that up sometime soon. Meanwhile, I'm still using old stuff (I've got plenty of it!)

katuah

Sorry to revive a dead thread, but I also need some help with starter bolt sizing. I just had my clutch replaced and the starter is making a rattling noise. I took it off and had it tested at AZ and it tested OK.

When I pulled it off I had to use a 9/16" socket on the bolt that goes in from the back/top (nearer the solenoid) (a 14mm would not fit), and a 15mm for the one with the head at the bottom facing the front. The 15mm-head one was short, the 9/16-head one was much longer. The writeups I am finding appear to be saying this is incorrect - did the shop dude mix up the bolts? Could you even successfully do that and have it work at all?

I have a '98 with the AX-15. I have a longer thread going on this over at NAXJA but this thread seemed to have more specific info from people with deep knowledge. Hoping y'all can help me out. Thanks.

EDIT: Never mind. Found this: https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/jee...-bolts-187635/