what is this and how hard to replace
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Joined: Oct 2009
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From: nc,clemmons
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
i got pics for u it is for the clutch i can already tell u that but my clutch pedal is to the floor it is leaking oil everywhere need help


Last edited by dogdog130; Apr 9, 2010 at 09:42 PM.
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Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 379
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From: Modesto
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 high output straight 6
Thats your clutch master cylinder, The seals are shot and the fluid is going through the path of least resistence ( i.e. the rubber seal )
I believe that the master cylinder and the throwout bearing/clutch slave need to be replaced at the same time since it is to the best of my knowledge a complete system on jeeps.
I may be wrong though since I have switched just slaves on mid 80's cherokees
I believe that the master cylinder and the throwout bearing/clutch slave need to be replaced at the same time since it is to the best of my knowledge a complete system on jeeps.
I may be wrong though since I have switched just slaves on mid 80's cherokees
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Joined: May 2009
Posts: 296
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From: Wy & OK
Year: 83 CJ7 & '96 XJ & '97 XJ
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 258ci, 4.0 & 4.0
The stock Master and Slave are both plastic, The parts stores offer a upgraded version thats made from Aluminum Casting and it's way better then the original. About $95 for the Master and $60 for the Slave, You most likely can find a better price if you shop around. Reuse the plastic hose that runs between the two. Do not cut the strap on the slave, it is meant to be installed with the strap. The first time you push in the clutch it will break the strap leaving the rubber hood on the end of the rod between it and the throw out bearing.
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Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,601
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From: Kalamazoo, MI
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L with throttle body spacer and cold air intake, bored throttle body, #784 injector upgrade
Depending on your year jeep, you will have different kinds of slave cylinders and master cylinders for the clutch. If you have all plastic right now then you need to watch out for the little cotter pin that holds the line in place. You will need a small punch to push it out and it can be reused if you do it right. There is another pin up by the master cylinder also on some. This is what holds the lines in place. On older models you might have a threaded line on the master and that pin on the slave. If you can't get the pin out of the line then remove the whole assembly carefully and set it on a bench to get that evil little pin out. Best of luck... my jeep sat for three days before I figure out about that little pin.
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Seasoned Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 296
Likes: 1
From: Wy & OK
Year: 83 CJ7 & '96 XJ & '97 XJ
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 258ci, 4.0 & 4.0
Is this what your Master looks like? the yellow circle shows where the pin is that must be driven out. Then the line will pull right out.
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