KJ Rear brake conversion questions
#1
Member
Thread Starter
KJ Rear brake conversion questions
I've been looking to do this conversion since seeing it here a few years back.
At this time I've purchased all the basic parts and have mocked up the axle. What I need is some advise and a few answers from a few of those that have experience with brake systems.
The brake lines on both sides are from the KJ. I'm looking at routing the hard line on the backside of the axle tubes. This causes the flex portion to have a tight loop as shown in these pics. This is my DD so if locating the hard lines forward on the axle tubes is not a big deal. Advise?
My other question is regarding the proportioning valve. My reading/searching here has brought me to the understanding this is a must modification for the new found braking power. Removing the valve spring assembly will send the same braking pressure to both ends. Not the best solution. So without going into replacing the prop valve block and other MC changes, what is the best/easiest solution for a spring assembly replacement you have found? Also if I understand the valve function correctly, the spring pressure needs to be increased to increase pressure to the rear brakes?
As for the parking brake cables this seems to be my biggest challenge. I can get the OEM cables off the 2004 Liberty I've been cannibalizing. The wrecking yard boss is cool but doesn't like guys messing his cars up to take parts. So my challenge is the console removal and removing the cables quickly and clean. Any links or tips?
Thanks for your assistance
At this time I've purchased all the basic parts and have mocked up the axle. What I need is some advise and a few answers from a few of those that have experience with brake systems.
The brake lines on both sides are from the KJ. I'm looking at routing the hard line on the backside of the axle tubes. This causes the flex portion to have a tight loop as shown in these pics. This is my DD so if locating the hard lines forward on the axle tubes is not a big deal. Advise?
My other question is regarding the proportioning valve. My reading/searching here has brought me to the understanding this is a must modification for the new found braking power. Removing the valve spring assembly will send the same braking pressure to both ends. Not the best solution. So without going into replacing the prop valve block and other MC changes, what is the best/easiest solution for a spring assembly replacement you have found? Also if I understand the valve function correctly, the spring pressure needs to be increased to increase pressure to the rear brakes?
As for the parking brake cables this seems to be my biggest challenge. I can get the OEM cables off the 2004 Liberty I've been cannibalizing. The wrecking yard boss is cool but doesn't like guys messing his cars up to take parts. So my challenge is the console removal and removing the cables quickly and clean. Any links or tips?
Thanks for your assistance
Last edited by MtnGoat; 08-20-2015 at 11:43 PM.
#2
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Join Date: Jan 2015
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
KJ Rear brake conversion questions
I'm not sure about the question regarding lines. As for the proportioning valve. You can swap the valve from a zj in because it was the same master cylinder with 4 wheel disks. As for the parking brakes crown sells a set for xj disk brake conversions.
http://www.crownautomotive.net/product/RT31041.html
http://www.crownautomotive.net/product/RT31040.html
http://www.crownautomotive.net/product/RT31041.html
http://www.crownautomotive.net/product/RT31040.html
Last edited by toasterknight; 08-21-2015 at 12:01 AM.
#3
CF Veteran
The lines look fine, they are not kinked. Just make sure that it doesn't come into contact with the tire.
You don't have to use a different porportoning valve but some folks swear it improves the performance, others say it makes no difference.
You can reuse your stock emergency brake cables along with a small cable clamp. Hook & loop the cable around the actuator arm & put the clamp on.
If you decide to use the Liberty cables bring a 13mm, 12 point wrench. Use the wrench to get the cable out of the parking brake equilizer & also off of the backing plates.
No need to get inside the Jeep & tamper with anything, if they're like the ZJ, you remove them from underneath the Jeep.
You don't have to use a different porportoning valve but some folks swear it improves the performance, others say it makes no difference.
You can reuse your stock emergency brake cables along with a small cable clamp. Hook & loop the cable around the actuator arm & put the clamp on.
If you decide to use the Liberty cables bring a 13mm, 12 point wrench. Use the wrench to get the cable out of the parking brake equilizer & also off of the backing plates.
No need to get inside the Jeep & tamper with anything, if they're like the ZJ, you remove them from underneath the Jeep.
#4
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Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Oregon Coast
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
KJ Rear brake conversion questions
The lines look fine, they are not kinked. Just make sure that it doesn't come into contact with the tire.
You don't have to use a different porportoning valve but some folks swear it improves the performance, others say it makes no difference.
You can reuse your stock emergency brake cables along with a small cable clamp. Hook & loop the cable around the actuator arm & put the clamp on.
If you decide to use the Liberty cables bring a 13mm, 12 point wrench. Use the wrench to get the cable out of the parking brake equilizer & also off of the backing plates.
No need to get inside the Jeep & tamper with anything, if they're like the ZJ, you remove them from underneath the Jeep.
You don't have to use a different porportoning valve but some folks swear it improves the performance, others say it makes no difference.
You can reuse your stock emergency brake cables along with a small cable clamp. Hook & loop the cable around the actuator arm & put the clamp on.
If you decide to use the Liberty cables bring a 13mm, 12 point wrench. Use the wrench to get the cable out of the parking brake equilizer & also off of the backing plates.
No need to get inside the Jeep & tamper with anything, if they're like the ZJ, you remove them from underneath the Jeep.
#5
Member
Thread Starter
As a log for others attempting this mod a few notes for those to keep in mind. The drum brake backing plate studs are a thread or two short for the extra thickness of the KJ plate. I pulled the studs from the Liberty and without cutting they're a bit long. I'll mockup the parking brake and see if there's any interference. The other option is extra red locktite on the short studs.
Same problem with the wheel studs. The drum studs are a few threads short so I purchased the Liberty replacements. I measured the new studs and they are almost 10 thousandths larger in dia than the axle holes. Large enough that they can't be pulled through with a lug nut. So this will be a trip to a press.
Same problem with the wheel studs. The drum studs are a few threads short so I purchased the Liberty replacements. I measured the new studs and they are almost 10 thousandths larger in dia than the axle holes. Large enough that they can't be pulled through with a lug nut. So this will be a trip to a press.
#6
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Thread Starter
I reshaped the Liberty brake line bracket then drilled/tapped bolt holes to tie those down. The lines are routed to the rear of the axle for my peace of mind.
Notes about fabbing the lines, I reused the Liberty lines and the XJ T-block. The old line nuts were reused and a double flare tool finished the job.. Big difference between the two lines is the Liberty tubes are cover in a plastic cover that needs to be removed when flaring the ends.
Notes about fabbing the lines, I reused the Liberty lines and the XJ T-block. The old line nuts were reused and a double flare tool finished the job.. Big difference between the two lines is the Liberty tubes are cover in a plastic cover that needs to be removed when flaring the ends.
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#8
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It gets 25 per mile.
I have an 86 coupe for sale 8K. Had just finished all the projects on it.
Then my dream car showed up....
.
I have an 86 coupe for sale 8K. Had just finished all the projects on it.
Then my dream car showed up....
.
Last edited by MtnGoat; 08-23-2015 at 10:57 PM.
#11
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
KJ Rear brake conversion questions
I reshaped the Liberty brake line bracket then drilled/tapped bolt holes to tie those down. The lines are routed to the rear of the axle for my peace of mind.
Notes about fabbing the lines, I reused the Liberty lines and the XJ T-block. The old line nuts were reused and a double flare tool finished the job.. Big difference between the two lines is the Liberty tubes are cover in a plastic cover that needs to be removed when flaring the ends.
Notes about fabbing the lines, I reused the Liberty lines and the XJ T-block. The old line nuts were reused and a double flare tool finished the job.. Big difference between the two lines is the Liberty tubes are cover in a plastic cover that needs to be removed when flaring the ends.
#12
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Thread Starter
#13
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Thread Starter
Nearly ready for the swap and was eyeballing the existing installation.
That's when I noticed a wiring harness going into the L/R drum assembly.
I'm guessing that's a wheel sensor for the ABS...... Just above the E-brake cable
Anyone. Anyone?
That's when I noticed a wiring harness going into the L/R drum assembly.
I'm guessing that's a wheel sensor for the ABS...... Just above the E-brake cable
Anyone. Anyone?
#14
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Thread Starter
For those lurkers.... Yep I have to pull the axles and modify the backing plates for ABS sensors.
I'll try to document all the necessary steps and mods for future XJ'ers
I'll try to document all the necessary steps and mods for future XJ'ers
#15
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Thread Starter
Not sure what years this applies to. So maybe the more experienced XJ'rs can chime in with a better definition of these parts.
Turns out my replacement axle is from an earlier XJ without ABS. You can see how the end of the housing/seal is tight to the hub.
The later housing is shorter to allow room for the ABS gear.
However, the ABS sensor mounts to the backing plate studs making for an easy installation. Just need to cut an opening for the cable/grommet.
If I want to go without ABS and E-brakes I'm ready to rock right now.
But no ABS with winter rain and snow coming can't be sure that's a good idea for a daily driver.
Turns out my replacement axle is from an earlier XJ without ABS. You can see how the end of the housing/seal is tight to the hub.
The later housing is shorter to allow room for the ABS gear.
However, the ABS sensor mounts to the backing plate studs making for an easy installation. Just need to cut an opening for the cable/grommet.
If I want to go without ABS and E-brakes I'm ready to rock right now.
But no ABS with winter rain and snow coming can't be sure that's a good idea for a daily driver.