Alabama

hello all... new to the forum.

thinking about trading a boat for a 90 cherokee 4x4 4.0 4dr.

what should i look for?

common issues?

what should i expect?

thanks

winston427

Rust is the biggest issue to check for. The most common spots are the rear quarter panels, floor pans under the rear seat and front floorboards. Just do a thorough inspection for any worn suspension and steering parts, and for any fluid leaks (rear main leaks on the engine are common on almost all XJs).

trapper

http://consumerguideauto.howstuffwor...p-cherokee.htm

http://www.samarins.com/check/simplecheck.html
(READ!!)

http://www.automallusa.net/1990/jeep...e/recalls.html

*Look for tool marks on nuts and bolts.. especially on the front fenders.. signs of a front end collision!

If you hear about something called the death wobble.. dont worry, just come back and search this site.. tons of good info there, this was my solution for the problem and get it aligned http://www.jeepin.com/features/trackbarfix/index.asp




Post pictures HERE on this forum.. ppl will help you.. most are nice some are opinionated and reject others for their beliefs.. 99.99% awesome though..

I say buy it.. as long as you want to improve it... it is nearly 20 years old

1,000s still on the road and most of us will be buried with them

Good luck

Alabama

well, i have a dd (95 ram) and my wife has a 08 commander limited. she wont let me play with her jeep so i figured i would get my own and do all the playing i want...probably cheaper on the XJ anyway...lol.

i will get pics up as soon as i get some.

Abovetimberline

I would look for overall condition,I would make sure there is not wires that have been hacked,make sure oil is contained in the motor not on the outside,overall condition.
The one thing I would do is a compression check,it will tell you alot about the engine.

trapper

X2 that.... very important

and I was thinking.. rear main seals can be bad too.. gotta drop the trans. for that one

Alabama

i appreciate all the info guys.

i know how to look at a used vehicle...and i know its 20 years old...lol. i dont expect perfection...just 95%...jk

my question is are there any common issues with the xj?

my first jeep was a 99 grand cherokee with the 4.0... i loved that motor! torqy as heck!

NewXJaddict

also look for anything that appears to be aftermarket. lifts and such. Check for valve cover leakage too.

trapper

1 - death wobble (info below.. print and file)

2 - worn out springs..

3 - rear main seal



---------------------------------------------------



Death Wobble

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=89888

http://www.jeepin.com/features/trackbarfix/index.asp
CHECK THIS JEEPIN LINK…. I AM DOINT THIS FIRST>>




Curing death wobble is definetly a reality. Death wobble isn’t similar to a wobble from an unbalanced tire. It is by far worse. When death wobble hits you will know… it’s a violent shake form the front end that feels like the Jeep is about to fall apart. Usually when it happens the only thing you can do to stop it is slow down. The first steps to eliminate death wobble should be a visual inspection of each component, check the bushings, tire balance and an alignment. There are some common things you must check anytime you lift your Jeep. Death wobble is experienced mostly on lifter Jeeps, however it is not uncommon for someone without a lift to experience the dreaded DW. Listed below are a few things you can check.

Torque specs:

Item ........................................ Ft. lbs. ................... Nm

Lug nuts (1/2 X 20 w/ 60* cone) .... 85-115 .............. 115-150
All tie rod ends ............................ 55 ..................... 74
Steering (both ends) .................... 55 ..................... 74
Shock absorber upper nut .............. 16 ..................... 22
Shock absorber lower nuts ............. 17 ..................... 23
UCA frame end ............................. 66 ..................... 89
UCA axle end ............................... 55 ...................... 74
LCA frame end ............................. 85 ...................... 115
LCA axle end ............................... 85 ...................... 115
Track bar frame end ..................... 60 ...................... 81
Track bar axle end ....................... 40 ....................... 54
Track bar bracket bolts ................. 92 ....................... 125
Track bar bracket nut ................... 74 ....................... 100
Track bar bracket support bolts ...... 31 ....................... 42
Hub bolts (3) ............................... 75 ....................... 102
Hub- axle bolt .............................. 175 ..................... 237

Alingment specs (stock):

Angle ............. Preferred ........... Range ............. Max R/L diff.

Caster ............ +7.0* ........ +5.25* to +8.5* ......... 1.25*
Camber ........... -0.25* ....... -0.75* to +0.5 ........... 1.0*
Total Toe-in .... +0.25* ....... 0* to +0.45* ............. .05*
Thrust angle .... 0* to ± 0.15*



Check your Track Bar, play in this can cause the axle to shake.
1. Bushings - check to see that they are not worn. Looks for cracks, and excessive play)
2. Angles - this angle should be the same as your draglink. Use an angle finders you can get at sears to determine this, don’t just eye-ball it.
3. Bolts – Make sure all bolts are tightened down to spec (some lift components have a different torque spec then)

Check the Axle, your mounts may be worn
1. Check the axle mount. Here is a good write up on a wallowed out bolt hole
http://www.jeepin.com/features/trackbarfix/index.asp
2. Check your Universal joints, a binding or lose U-Joint can cause DW
3. On the frame end if you still use the conventional Tie Rod End or (TRE) make sure that there is no play in this, as play can cause DW.
4. Look/Check for worn/torn boots on ball joints/tie-rod ends.

Check your Tires
1. Out of balance tires can cause shaking in the front end, which can lead to death wobble.
2. Make sure all of your lug nuts are tight, (Sounds elementary but it happens to the best of us)

Check your Frame
1. Small cracks in the frame can cause the steering box to feel loose, Shaking from DW can only make this worse. 33’s and larger should have some form of Steering box brace, or frame brace in.
2. If you have upgraded your frame mount, make sure its cranked down nice and tight. (best to use an impact gun)
3. A busted Frame Mount can cause play in the front end causing DW (Keep a watchful eye on the welds as welds in sheer can break over time.

Make sure you have a good alignment
1. After you get an alignment done, have them print out the numbers for you. An XJ should have a 7* positive caster angle. A lifted XJ can’t always have that high of a number because the pinion would become out of alignment with the front driveshaft. Pinion angle takes precedence over caster.
2. Make you sure you go to a place that will adjust the caster if necessary (either by shims in the frame side of the LCAs, or adjustable LCAs).

The more adjustable parts the easier it is to tune in your suspension.
1. Adjustable Track Bar
2. Adjustable Upper and Lower Control Arms (upper ones above 4” of lift). Not only are they adjustable, but they are stronger.


Things to remember:
1. A Steering Stabilizer (SS) is not a quick fix for DW.

Entire list of everything that can cause death wobble:
-Front tires out of balance
-Front alignment out of spec
-Loose track bar
-Worn track bar bushings
-Worn track bar end
-Need adjustable track bar
-Bad bushings/joints in control arms
-Worn/damaged steering stabilizer
-Worn/damaged shocks
-Worn/damaged tie rod end
-Bad U Joint
-Bad ball joint
-Loose frame mount
-Steering box looseness
-Need drop pitman arm
-Driveshaft(s) not balanced
-Bad front hub assembly

Alabama

thanks a million.

as far as DW goes...ive got a funny story for another time