Water pump atv sealer?

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Aug 13, 2014 | 09:10 PM
  #16  
Quote: If you have a gasket why do you need sealer ?
Ive not used sealer ever on a paper gasket , silicone is one of the most mis used products out there .
I never personally used gasket shlack either.
I just did the T stat housing last year some shmo used nothing but silicone , its been leaking 2 yrs.
I pulled housing looked at the surface , I had to true it up( to bad I could not find a cast iron one) reassembled with new gasket and just a smidge of black rtv to hold it on while I put it in place .
Guess everyone has there way of doing things.
Agreed. How did we keep automotive systems sealed up for so many years before RTV? I built a Nissan Patrol engine with nothing but wheel bearing grease on the cork gaskets and it never leaked, even the side covers.
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Aug 13, 2014 | 09:23 PM
  #17  
Just because something was done for years a certain way does not mean it is best. Carburetors vs fuel injection is one example.
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Aug 13, 2014 | 09:26 PM
  #18  
Quote: Just because something was done for years a certain way does not mean it is best. Carburetors vs fuel injection is one example.
Correct. But lousy comparison.

Carbs worked poorly. Old gasket sealers worked just fine and still do.

And, newer is not ALWAYS better.........Our Cherokees for example.
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Aug 13, 2014 | 09:33 PM
  #19  
Quote: And, newer is not ALWAYS better.........Our Cherokees for example.


I think he will get better adhesion on the messed up surface he has with shellac.
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Aug 13, 2014 | 09:36 PM
  #20  
Quote:

I think he will get better adhesion on the messed surface he has with shellac.
And it has some body to it also.

I was in the car business at the dealership level in Parts and Service from 1974 through 1992. Had my own shop from 1992 til 2005.
I never saw more problems with oil leaks until the appearance of RTV on the market in the 80s.
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Aug 13, 2014 | 09:49 PM
  #21  
To the OP......quit guessing, listening to opinions and just use the right stuff for the job. Pretty much self explanatory. Here's one example of many sealers specifically for antifreeze/coolant exposure, I'm sure.

http://www.permatex.com/products-2/p...-gasket-detail
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Aug 13, 2014 | 11:17 PM
  #22  
I got some permatex high tack, I will just have to go easy on that bottom bolt . I'd love to get that bolt out but I guess they were In a hurry and drilled a hole right threw the head. Look at the pic I think I'm missing a chunk off the head that's why they didn't tap it out?
I did go with the OE/WP and thermostat.

Water pump atv sealer?-image-3196272107.jpg   Water pump atv sealer?-image-2107081215.jpg   Water pump atv sealer?-image-166080958.jpg   Water pump atv sealer?-image-2358556037.jpg  

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Aug 14, 2014 | 12:09 AM
  #23  
Thats a nice mess. Hope you can get it to seal.
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Aug 14, 2014 | 12:55 AM
  #24  
Yea it never leaked before I just decided to change out the thermostat while I'll was at the WP .
What is the best way to fill the block with antifreeze and bleed the system of any air?
1990 xj I6 L aw4 w/ 242tc
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Aug 14, 2014 | 12:56 AM
  #25  
Yea it never leaked before I just decided to change out the thermostat while I'll was at the WP .
What is the best way to fill the block with antifreeze and bleed the system of any air?
1990 xj I6 L aw4 w/ 242tc I do have a closed cooling system ?

Water pump atv sealer?-image-982035365.jpg  

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Aug 14, 2014 | 01:37 AM
  #26  
I Didn't even get you have a Renix Jeep. Looks nice! Yes, it's a closed system. Be sure to put the hole deal on the thermostat up at 12:00. I like the front wheels about a foot higher than the rears, but level works. Just fill it cold, then let it idle and add 50/50 coolant, (don't buy it, mix it). While it warms up it will go down as the air works out. If it starts spitting and spurting, stop, let it cool some, and repeat. They can be a little stubborn. Once you have it, check it the next day or two.

That's an expansion bottle. 1/2 full or even a little less is the goal, you want about 1/2 air in there to compress when the system get's hot. It's the weak point in the system, I lost count of how many I've replaced in 12 years. (I get them from the JY and only got clear how important it is to not over fill it couple of years ago)

I'd tighten those T-stat bolts 1/2, 3/4, the night before, then (gently of course), do the final touch the next morning.

Check out Cruisers tips in his sig, as well as mine for lots of info on your Renix Jeep.
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Aug 14, 2014 | 02:44 AM
  #27  
So would I fill it through the thermostat housing ? Once it's full I'll be ok to start it up right ?
I'm guessing just fill it anywhere I know it will burp itself eventually.
Just looking for some tips on the easy way to bleed air out of the cooling system do I have to kink the upper hose then start it?
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Aug 14, 2014 | 12:38 PM
  #28  
Fill it slowly thru the bottle. When the bottle stays 1/2 full, start the motor let it idle with the cap off and keep the bottle 1/2 full while it warms up.
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Aug 14, 2014 | 01:08 PM
  #29  
Thank you everyone who has chimed in!
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Aug 14, 2014 | 01:36 PM
  #30  
I have used just the gasket, and also a very thin layer of RTV Black, and #3, on either sides of the gasket, both with long-term no-leak results. Indian Head is great stuff too. Surprised they haven't faced political correctness over the name...but that's another story.

Follow your heart, OP
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