Transfer case drop Please help
#1
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 H.O.
Transfer case drop Please help
As my dad and i are dropping my transfer case, rough country tells you to take out the 1 bolt and one nut (same on each side) Then they tell you to remove the stud that has the threads on it so that you can put a bolt in its place. We have tried doing this by using 2 nuts. one as a locknot. and when that failed over and over again we welded a nut to the threads and tried to back it out and it barley spun then the weld would break. Does anyone have any ideas how to get those studs out?
#2
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
im not sure if those studs are welded or threaded in but if they are threaded which they should be try using a torch to heat it up then try removing it with the nut welded like you were
#3
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Year: 1987 MJ, 1998 XJ, 1973 J2000, 89 waggy
Model: Comanche (MJ)
Engine: 4.0L H.O
they're only threaded in.... if they're welded then someone did it..
i've always done the double nut setup.... the way i've always done it was put a jack under the CM and then remove the 2 bolts and 2 nuts...
then take both nuts and tighten the 1st nut onto one stud..(all the way down or just half way) then take the 2nd nut and tighten it down to the 1st nut.... switch the wrench onto the 1st nut and spin the ****er off..... hopeing you dont break it.. soak it with some PB blast and then get a breaker bar or another wrench to get some leverage on your wrench
also how much was your t-case drop kit??? and was it the spacers or the steel block??
i used hockey pucks and they worked perfectley plus they have a bigger base for more support and it only cost me $20 for pucks and hardware alltogethor
i've always done the double nut setup.... the way i've always done it was put a jack under the CM and then remove the 2 bolts and 2 nuts...
then take both nuts and tighten the 1st nut onto one stud..(all the way down or just half way) then take the 2nd nut and tighten it down to the 1st nut.... switch the wrench onto the 1st nut and spin the ****er off..... hopeing you dont break it.. soak it with some PB blast and then get a breaker bar or another wrench to get some leverage on your wrench
also how much was your t-case drop kit??? and was it the spacers or the steel block??
i used hockey pucks and they worked perfectley plus they have a bigger base for more support and it only cost me $20 for pucks and hardware alltogethor
#5
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Year: 1987 MJ, 1998 XJ, 1973 J2000, 89 waggy
Model: Comanche (MJ)
Engine: 4.0L H.O
here are some of my pics.... just an example for the hockey pucks
this is my 96 cherokee... with drop t-case kit from rough-country
this is my comanche... with my homebrew t-case drop kit from MC sports and Tractor Supply Co
Much Cheaper
this is my 96 cherokee... with drop t-case kit from rough-country
this is my comanche... with my homebrew t-case drop kit from MC sports and Tractor Supply Co
Much Cheaper
#6
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Double nut failed on me.
What I did was take a dremel and shaved two flat sides on the stud. While doing this, the dremel heats up the stud and loosens the locktight and it also gives the pipe wrench something to grip on. Right after that I take the pipe wrench and twist the stud off. Came off like butter. Try it
I used BIG nuts:
What I did was take a dremel and shaved two flat sides on the stud. While doing this, the dremel heats up the stud and loosens the locktight and it also gives the pipe wrench something to grip on. Right after that I take the pipe wrench and twist the stud off. Came off like butter. Try it
I used BIG nuts:
#7
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Double nut failed on me.
What I did was take a dremel and shaved two flat sides on the stud. While doing this, the dremel heats up the stud and loosens the locktight and it also gives the pipe wrench something to grip on. Right after that I take the pipe wrench and twist the stud off. Came off like butter. Try it
I used BIG nuts:
What I did was take a dremel and shaved two flat sides on the stud. While doing this, the dremel heats up the stud and loosens the locktight and it also gives the pipe wrench something to grip on. Right after that I take the pipe wrench and twist the stud off. Came off like butter. Try it
I used BIG nuts:
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#8
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
just a bit of advice, keep an eye on the engine mounts. mine were worn and the engine slid back to where the mounts were metal on metal, made alot of bad noise.....took the tc drop out after i found out what it was.
#9
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
That stud can be a major PITA. Hit it with PB blaster or the sea foam deep creep and wait. Then hit it again. then hit it with a torch right before you try to remove it. I ended up getting the double nut to work that way, but on another rig we ended up snapping it off, drilling it out, retapping it. I think that took less time than mine actually removing it.
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