trans shifts at 3000rpm. TC locks up at 65mph!
#1
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trans shifts at 3000rpm. TC locks up at 65mph!
It all works, but damn!! The shifting at 3000 RPM's I can handle, but the 65 mph torque converter lockup, it kinda defeats the purpose. And this is on "Comfort" mode. Power mode seems to move the shift points even higher. I tried rotating the TPS. And I did the cable adjustment. Nothing seems to have any effect.
Ideas???
Ideas???
#2
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Prescott, Az
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
TPS is probably bad.
This is always good to do:
Cruiser’s Trans Plug Refreshing
Over near the transmission dipstick tube are 2 rather large connectors. One is black and the other gray. These 2 connectors carry all the info between TPS, TCU, NSS, speed sensor, and transmission solenoids.
Unplug each one, visually inspect for corrosion or bent pins, spray them out with electrical contact cleaner and plug them back in.
Additionally, if your Jeep is an 87 to 90 Renix, it’s always a good idea to reach up under the glovebox area and unplug the connector to the TCU and spray it out along with the receptacle of the TCU. While you’re there, find the fuse right in that area for the TCU. Remove it and spray out it’s receptacle and clean any corrosion from the fuse.
Revised 9-10-2012
This is always good to do:
Cruiser’s Trans Plug Refreshing
Over near the transmission dipstick tube are 2 rather large connectors. One is black and the other gray. These 2 connectors carry all the info between TPS, TCU, NSS, speed sensor, and transmission solenoids.
Unplug each one, visually inspect for corrosion or bent pins, spray them out with electrical contact cleaner and plug them back in.
Additionally, if your Jeep is an 87 to 90 Renix, it’s always a good idea to reach up under the glovebox area and unplug the connector to the TCU and spray it out along with the receptacle of the TCU. While you’re there, find the fuse right in that area for the TCU. Remove it and spray out it’s receptacle and clean any corrosion from the fuse.
Revised 9-10-2012
#3
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Thread Starter
Thanks Cruiser54, that's how I got it back to working after I hosed it off. At least it does work now. I have also refreshed the ground at the oil dipstick and replaced the cheesy ground strap on the firewall with something a lot beefier. Easier to do when the valve cover is off.
I did your valve cover mod as well:-)
However, I will add that although I use contact cleaner, I also like to use Caig's DeOxit to clean off corrosion and oxidation from wires and terminals. It also provides a light lube and protection for the contact points. All of this I picked up from my vintage audio hobby.
I did your valve cover mod as well:-)
However, I will add that although I use contact cleaner, I also like to use Caig's DeOxit to clean off corrosion and oxidation from wires and terminals. It also provides a light lube and protection for the contact points. All of this I picked up from my vintage audio hobby.
#4
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Prescott, Az
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Thanks Cruiser54, that's how I got it back to working after I hosed it off. At least it does work now. I have also refreshed the ground at the oil dipstick and replaced the cheesy ground strap on the firewall with something a lot beefier. Easier to do when the valve cover is off.
I did your valve cover mod as well:-)
However, I will add that although I use contact cleaner, I also like to use Caig's DeOxit to clean off corrosion and oxidation from wires and terminals. It also provides a light lube and protection for the contact points. All of this I picked up from my vintage audio hobby.
I did your valve cover mod as well:-)
However, I will add that although I use contact cleaner, I also like to use Caig's DeOxit to clean off corrosion and oxidation from wires and terminals. It also provides a light lube and protection for the contact points. All of this I picked up from my vintage audio hobby.
#5
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Hell, CA
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
The later models are hardwired to "power" mode. I rin mine in power mode, shifts are better and mileage is better. So, even at WOT yours shifts at 3grand? Ddfinitely doesnt seem right. Mine will go as far as it needs to before shifting.
#7
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Mine's an '89, so I have the switch. But it seems not to have any effect. Switched to "Power" the light comes on, but the shift points remain the same.
As for how much the cable moved, I couldn't say for sure. I don't think it was much though.
As for how much the cable moved, I couldn't say for sure. I don't think it was much though.
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#8
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Bypass the switch into Power mode:
Bypassing the Power/Comfort Switch
Remove and unplug the switch. In the harness are 3 wires One has a stripe, one is tan, and the other black. Make a 4" jumper wire with a male spade at each end. Plug one end in the cavity for the tan wire and the other in the cavity for the striped wire and you'll be in permanent Power mode. Stuff the harness back in and reinstall the switch for looks.
Bypassing the Power/Comfort Switch
Remove and unplug the switch. In the harness are 3 wires One has a stripe, one is tan, and the other black. Make a 4" jumper wire with a male spade at each end. Plug one end in the cavity for the tan wire and the other in the cavity for the striped wire and you'll be in permanent Power mode. Stuff the harness back in and reinstall the switch for looks.
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