I have a 98 jeep Cherokee with aw4 trans and both lines are leaking and I was wondering if you just custom make lines or what lines to buy because they just got replaced about 3 years ago and are already leaking again...

 

yeah you can buy the hose by the foot and just clamp them well. Just remember you are working with pressure so it needs to be a good fit. There should be a write up or two floating around. I have had zero issues with my lines in 5 years or more of the flimsy disconnect lines being replaced.

To add, that is if just the quick disconnect parts of the lines are leaking by the rad, if the lines going into the tranny leak, that is a different story.

 

They aren't really pressurized. Though a tight fit is very important, cause exhaust temps can reach the flash point temp of ATF, dangerous if you're leaking onto the exhaust. Besides, you don't want to leak trans fluid anyways!

P.S. if your disconnect lines at the tranny are leaking (happened to me) you can buy a barb adapter and hook the hose right up to it. Though I couldn't find a metric threaded barb fitting so I needed to buy an adapter as well.

 

It's leaking around where the rubber hose connects to the metal hose where the flare fitting is between the two...How is the line connected to the transmission??? Can I run just like a rubber or stainless steel hose and eliminate the oem style???

 

yeah then that line can be replaced like above, just use tranny cooler line by the foot. Also there IS enough pressure to find a weak fitting and you will have a bad day. Those metal flares are the "quick" disconnects that leak and become stuck on easy, making them not so quick.

 

Alright well what kind of fitting is on the transmission??? Same quick disconnect as the side on the radiator??? And I was thinking about taking the factory lines off and making new ones...and I am replacing the radiator already so i want to replace the lines to while I'm there and doing it

 

The side of the tranny uses the same goofy QD as up front, its just a lot harder to access them.
I'd use a tubing cutter and cut the tube by the oil pan, then run bulk tranny cooler rubber hose to the radiator. Slide the hose as far as yuo can over the metal line, double clamp it, call it good. Zip tie it off well so it doesnt jump into the fan. Worked for me. Its not under a lot of pressure at all.

 

Might want to get under it and look.....who knows what a PO may have done. I would think u would want to keep as much metal line as possible and as suggested, double clamp the rubber hose where it slips over the metal line.

 

Oh ok...I get what your saying now...I didn't even think about that I was going to run one line from the radiator to the trans itself but this makes a lot more sense to do it that way...ok thanks guys you have been a great help and that's exactly what I'm going to do

 

A few observations on that pic.
1- wow, that is gotta be the cleanest tranny tunnel and AW4 out there
2- that is the tranny dipstick that is hose/clamped up. They must have fubared it when the pulled the tranny, or maybe thats just good preventative measure. Underneath that is the factory split between tranny mounted dipstick tube engine mounted upper portion. there's supposed to be an O-ring between them, I'm digging that rubber hose over the joint.

 

Be sure to double clamp the rubber hose.

 

Haha pick out everything u see haha I like it...n I will for sure double clamp it, I don't need to blow a line off and not know it lol

 

Negative on the fubar.....using a small tubing cutter on a dipstick tube that is really stubborn and won't separate prevents a fubar when doing a pan drop/filter change and makes the pan drop a piece of cake in the future. Many thanks to a forum member that did this.....I just posted pics. The rubber hose is below the joint.

 

I use a 3/8" hard line to -6 "bite" fitting in a trans cooler kit... works really good, very clean....
sliding a 3/8" HP line line with double hose clamps works too!