track bar-track bar relocation bracket
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 262
Likes: 1
From: PSL FL
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Ok heres a question that im sure has been asked before and answered before
Whats the benifit of installing a new track bar vs the bracket? do they accomplish the same thing as far as the alignment of the front axle? I assume that an aftermarket one is stronger than stock, but are there any other benifits?
From other threads I gather that one of these will get my axle centered. My driver side tire sticks out more than the passenger side tire and when I brake hard while turning it pulls slightly. Would a track bar or the reloaction bracket help fix that?
Thanks for answering this for what im sure is 100th time......

Whats the benifit of installing a new track bar vs the bracket? do they accomplish the same thing as far as the alignment of the front axle? I assume that an aftermarket one is stronger than stock, but are there any other benifits?
From other threads I gather that one of these will get my axle centered. My driver side tire sticks out more than the passenger side tire and when I brake hard while turning it pulls slightly. Would a track bar or the reloaction bracket help fix that?
Thanks for answering this for what im sure is 100th time......
Senior Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 603
Likes: 0
From: Charles Town, WV
Year: 2005
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 3.7
I put an Adj. on mine and it centered the axle and now the tires stick out the same on each side. I did not use the relocation bracket and have had no prob lems so i dont know the benifits.
Relocation brackets 
Adjustable trackbars
I would much rather re-drill the hole over some than get a bracket. It's just a bunch more bolts to come loose and may throw off angles. Remember, when modifying the trackbar up or down, the draglink has to follow suit. They must stay parallel to each other or else the jeep will get bumpsteer.
Adjustable trackbars

I would much rather re-drill the hole over some than get a bracket. It's just a bunch more bolts to come loose and may throw off angles. Remember, when modifying the trackbar up or down, the draglink has to follow suit. They must stay parallel to each other or else the jeep will get bumpsteer.
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 262
Likes: 1
From: PSL FL
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Relocation brackets 
Adjustable trackbars
I would much rather re-drill the hole over some than get a bracket. It's just a bunch more bolts to come loose and may throw off angles. Remember, when modifying the trackbar up or down, the draglink has to follow suit. They must stay parallel to each other or else the jeep will get bumpsteer.
Adjustable trackbars

I would much rather re-drill the hole over some than get a bracket. It's just a bunch more bolts to come loose and may throw off angles. Remember, when modifying the trackbar up or down, the draglink has to follow suit. They must stay parallel to each other or else the jeep will get bumpsteer.
). I will not go past 4" lift in the near future and will keep my 31" BFG's untill they wear out.So the draglink.....that will keep the steeringwheel rotated to center if adjusted properly right? Anytime you adjust the trackbar you have to adjust the draglink right? But how do you lower it? Do I have to buy a new draglink also?
Thanks Guys!
Short Bus Motorsports
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 1,111
Likes: 7
From: Plymouth Indiana
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Brackets have a tendancy to work loose, go with an adjustable. Rough County i believe is 4.5" to 6.5 inches of lift. Maybe to long for a 3" lift. I have been running a Black Diamond/Superlift works just fine.
http://www.truckmod.com/directpart.a...tnumber=716220
http://www.4wheelerssupply.com/catal...oducts_id/1582
http://www.truckmod.com/directpart.a...tnumber=716220
http://www.4wheelerssupply.com/catal...oducts_id/1582
::CF Administrator::
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 10,039
Likes: 16
From: Okc area
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
One thing no directions seem to ever tell you are the torque settings for the upper bolt/nut ie at frame side and the bolts/nut at axle end.. Axle end is 55 FT lbs and frame end is 100 FT lbs. I know many people feel just tightening till it won't turn anymore but IMHO that's a bad practice.. Proper torqued bolts and nuts won't bind up and will move to factory specs.. Also after install of any new part recheck those torque settings after a couple hundred miles and then again at 1000 miles.
Also definitely go adjustable and like others have said the RC bar is for their 4.5" lifts.. xjjeepthing posted some good links to some good bars that will work just fine for what you want and need.
Also definitely go adjustable and like others have said the RC bar is for their 4.5" lifts.. xjjeepthing posted some good links to some good bars that will work just fine for what you want and need.
Renix Super Guru
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 24,653
Likes: 19
From: In yourz postez fissin jurr spelinzs
Year: 1990XJ/1989MJ
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0L Renix
I have a RE 3.5" lift and kept the OEM trackbar until I could afford the adjustable trackbar. I intended to stay with RE for that as well but got a new JKS from another forum for $100 shipped so I grabbed it. I have not had a problem with the two different manufacturers components working together. In another thread I stated that I just did the ZJ steering upgrade and it is much heavier duty than the hollow XJ stuff and I was impressed with it and the ease with which it went on. I had my pickle fork and BFH and expected to whail on it but that was not required.
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::CF Administrator::
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 10,039
Likes: 16
From: Okc area
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
I have a RE 3.5" lift and kept the OEM trackbar until I could afford the adjustable trackbar. I intended to stay with RE for that as well but got a new JKS from another forum for $100 shipped so I grabbed it. I have not had a problem with the two different manufacturers components working together. In another thread I stated that I just did the ZJ steering upgrade and it is much heavier duty than the hollow XJ stuff and I was impressed with it and the ease with which it went on. I had my pickle fork and BFH and expected to whail on it but that was not required.
::CF Administrator::
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 10,039
Likes: 16
From: Okc area
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
How about a rough country bar? The price is right and I havent heard too much negative stuff about them. For now its still my DD and I live in Florida so I dont see much extreem off road stuff in my near future unfortunatly(all i can find on my own is mud and water
). I will not go past 4" lift in the near future and will keep my 31" BFG's untill they wear out.
So the draglink.....that will keep the steeringwheel rotated to center if adjusted properly right? Anytime you adjust the trackbar you have to adjust the draglink right? But how do you lower it? Do I have to buy a new draglink also?
Thanks Guys!
). I will not go past 4" lift in the near future and will keep my 31" BFG's untill they wear out.So the draglink.....that will keep the steeringwheel rotated to center if adjusted properly right? Anytime you adjust the trackbar you have to adjust the draglink right? But how do you lower it? Do I have to buy a new draglink also?
Thanks Guys!

The RC trackbar is for 4" lifts so it will fit at that height(4"). Get the 7571 trackbar.
JKS is an awesome trackbar and i run it as does Blue. They have two, one for 1"-3.5" and another for 4"+. It's a very beefy bar and that's why i've alway run that on my wrangler and now my xj. It does cost more than most though but you can find them used like both of us did (i paid $150 on ebay).
4wd hardware has their own trackbar for 3"-6.5" and it's pretty much like the stock one, only adjustable. It has the regular tie rod end joint like the stock one so you don't get as much flex out of it but it's pretty decent. That one is $150.
RE has one for 3.5"-4.5" for around $160.
Super lift also has one but i've had so many problems with that one and i won't list details on it.
Yes the draglink keeps the steering wheel centered by the adjuster sleeve near the pitman arm. When you adjust the trackbar, you are sliding the axle left or right and this pulls or pushes on the draglink, turning your steering wheel. Just twist the adjuster in either direction, depending on which way you need to turn the steering wheel ( I can never remember which way does what
) and then go check to see if it's straight.When you run a trackbar with a drop bracket, usually you use a drop pitman arm to lower the draglink to the same plane. I think some kits that come with drop brackets also come with drop pitman arms for this very reason. For example, RE's 5.5" extreme duty has a drop bracket and drop pitman arm.
http://www.rubiconexpress.com/Produc...=88EF4E7243642
Last edited by muddeprived; Sep 5, 2008 at 04:34 PM.
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 262
Likes: 1
From: PSL FL
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Wow, thanks guys, lots of good info!
I will probably go with a 4"+ bar cause this is pretty addictive.....
I take it this can all be done with the wheels on the ground right?
I will probably go with a 4"+ bar cause this is pretty addictive.....
I take it this can all be done with the wheels on the ground right?
Renix Super Guru
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 24,653
Likes: 19
From: In yourz postez fissin jurr spelinzs
Year: 1990XJ/1989MJ
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0L Renix
It can be done either way My first was done on the ground my second was done on a lift and my third required no trackbar changes.
I prefer on the ground. That way when you remove the stock one, you shake the jeep side to side, jump on the bumper up and down so it settles itself. It should be about centered after that.
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