don't have a clue as to why but i can't start my engine unless i crank it twice. and if the first time i crank it i leave it cranking, my battery voltage starts dropping. got the battery tested and it fully charges, but iv never had a battery drop volts by the second cause of trying to start. any ideas? i tried to get new battery from warranty but walmart said if it fully charges that they cant supply me with a new one

 

that is a crap statement from wally world.

have it load tested from vato zone and see if there is a dead cell or a shorted cell.

if there is make wally world give you a new one.

how bad is your drop?

 

I'd strongly recommend you clean your battery terminals and posts to bright metal. Also inspect the cables for corrosion.

The load test, as suggested, is an excellent idea.

 

it goes down to 1/4 full voltage

 

my terminals are as clean as they can be. the battery isnt even that old but with all the bumping around from playing in assuming something isn't right.

 

1/4 of full voltage? do you have a reading?

 

i don't have the drop tester but when i crank it the needle on the gauge drops to about 5 or 7 volts

 

you must have high resistance somewhere in the starting circuit (if your battery load tests fine)

do you see any green corrosion on the positive or negative leads/ are your grounds secured and clean?

but def start with a proper load test.

 

Should he continue to try an start it if the voltage drops that much?( at least according to the gauge) voltage that low could cause some damage to some of the electronics couldnt it?

 

You have:
- Faulty connections in starting circuit, or
- Faulty connection to PDC, or
- Failed/failing battery (charge acceptance is irrelevant, there's a "deep charge" and a "surface charge," and the only thing that can really be tested on the bench is a "surface charge,") or
- Failed/failing alternator (either a charging fault or an incipient rectifier fault allowing a drain,) or
- Ignition Off Draw (IOD) circuit fault.

Recommendations:
- Find my writeup on testing primary electrical (no, I don't have a link) and follow it. That will give you a better test of your alternator output and battery state than whatever the MW monkey can do at Wally World.
- Visually inspect mains connections. Disassemble all for inspection, clean/reterminate PRN. If you need to replace hardware, do not use black oxide-coated fasteners! Bright zinc, CRES, brass, or bronze.
- Dismount & clean starter motor & mounting pad. Oil leaks (from the valve cover, timing chain cover, and oil filter adapter) can collect back here and cause current drains. Make sure the starter gets remounted securely, replace hardware PRN (bright zinc or CRES. NB: One screw may be 3/8"-16, the other may be M10-1.5. Forewarned is forearmed...)
- Stop going to Wally World for diagnostic information. Autozone, et al are only marginally better.

 

ill take all this in and check one by one