I just replaced a 6054 Headlight on my 95 XJ. I used an OEM Sealed Beam Glass Style Headlight by Sylvania.

Question: Should the plug from the Jeep seat all the way against the back of the headlight? It may just be me and I did not really make note on the old headlight, but it seems as though the plug covered more of the prongs on the old headlight (Phillips) vs the new headlight???

The prongs on the new headlight seem to have Stops on the prongs wherein the plug only seats so far. I used dialectic gel and the connection is tight, but there seems to be too much of the prongs exposed???

All is working... Just a thought... Has anyone else seen this? Will there be a problem with moisture, etc?

 

Yes, that's normal. There is a lot of brass exposed and the stops are there so you don't fracture the new style ceramic plugs used as replacements. If you swap to H4 bulbs, they get hot enough to melt the old rubber plugs.

Incidentally, if you used Silvania Silverstar bulbs, H6054, they are brighter than regular ones, but only last about a year on average if you do a lot of night driving. H4 headlights have replaceable bulbs, but have metal reflectors that will eventually rust if the glass seal breaks. Also, installing a Putco style relay harness is required if you use H4's. I really don't like LED headlights since I've been on the receiving end of them too often. I haven't seen any yet that actually dim properly.

 

I've been running the Silverstar H6054's w/a Putco harness for at least the last 7 years. Lots of night driving on rough roads and on no roads. Maybe they've dropped in quality since I acquired them? I do know mine throw fantastic hi and lo beam patterns.

 

Well, I deliver newspapers 4 night a week so my high beams are on roughly 3-4 hours straight the whole time. I burn one out about once a year and only on the high beam. I don't replace them both at the same time so it's hard to judge. The 9005's and 9006's in my WJ last longer though. In that all 4 lights are on when on high beam.

 

I decided a while back that when (if !) I have a failure I'll go with a non LED H4 headlight bulb/housing. Not only because the SS H6054's are expensive but because I don't know of any other sealed beam that is as bright or gives as good a pattern. Also even though the SS's are bright enough there is the option of brighter with the H4 type.

 

Hmmmmm....I'll have to look into that! Thanks Earl!

 

SORRY Dave. I was meaning a change to H4's. You can get brighter options when ordering.
http://rimiusa.com/index.php?main_pa...products_id=55

 

Yeah, 60's are great but 100's will get you stopped! Ask me how I know. I had 7" Euro headlights in my 67 Camaro and the cops made it a point to stop me if they got hit with the brights coming the other way unexpectedly. I wound up buying housings and mounting them behind the grill to use as driving lights.

 

Which bulb would you go with on that?

 

As Dave alludes to if I lived in an area where I could frequently cross paths with LEO's I'd go white 60/55W. Since I live where there are more deer than LEO's I'll go white 100/55W. In fact I'm pretty sure WV is the #1 state with the highest probability of having a vehicle/deer encounter.

 

I used Sylvania XtraVision... H6054 OE Style Sealed Beam Light... Not for any particular reason... It was just readily available and promised brighter than stock... So far so good... It may be somewhat brighter than the other headlight that wasn’t replaced.

Here’s a question... Old light is stamped on Lens Cover with “2B1”... New light is stamped with only “2B”

Assuming 2B references “Two Beams”... Wonder what the “1” is referring to on old headlight?

 

All I can tell you is XtraVision is Sylvania's regular replacement bulb and it says it's brighter than ordinary bulbs, but the Silverstar's are zenon filled and supposed to be brighter than even XtraVision. This is what Sylvania is saying. The Silverstar I just took out is marked 2B1. The UPC on the box says 6054ST.BX whatever that means.

 

To OP. If you haven't done this already you really should:
http://cruiser54.com/?p=115

 

There is only one modification to these harnesses that should be made. I bought a cheap copy of the Putco harness and it worked perfectly for quite a while, then one night I lost ALL my headlights on a lonely dark road and almost lost control! What happened was the fuseholder for the main supply from the battery got corroded and the resistance melted it. I cut the 2 wires to it and pigtailed them to get home, went down to NAPA and got a replacement fuse holder with a snap cap on it and much heavier wires, and wired it in. Then I waterproofed the back of it with liquid electrical tape and it's been fine for 3 years that way now. This new fuseholder takes the next size larger fuse where the original one used a mini. Understand that this XJ lives in the salt belt with the associated rust, or "Orange Locktite" and "Green Crusties" as we call them!