My GF asked me to check out her 2001 xj this weekend because she says it doesnt feel right. I drive it around and there is something off about the power steering (I have a 96 that I take good care of so aware how jeeps feel in general, and ive driven hers a lot in the past). Anyway, its like the entire steering column feels a little 'sticky' in that it takes some effort (esp when you first start the jeep) to turn. It reminds me when I used to drive fire trucks how you have to crank a little before you get it to turn, both in terms of play and tension. Is is not that bad exactly but easiest way to explain it. Also it feels the slightest bit 'jerky' where I will be going straight and i'll feel a slight pull to one side (often right if I remember). So it both takes some slight effort to turn, slightly less responsive, and maybe slightly pulling to a side.

I checked the power steering fluid and looks very clean. What is my next steep? Is this the power steering pump, something else? Thanks as usual for any help!

 

Sounds like the pump is dying. Is it making noises when turning? How old is it? The new ones are low quality, so even if it was replaced recently, chances are it is dying already.

The pulling could be an alignment/tire issue, separate from the slow steering.

Before spending money on new parts, check the steering linkage from the steering wheel to the pitman arm. Have someone turn the wheels back and forth and look at the intermediate steering column. Then look at the gearbox, and the pitman arm/ball joint stud in the drag link. Look for play. Like the gearbox body moving. Look at the other suspension parts too.

 

It could be fluid leaking past the piston in the gearbox, sort of delaying response. That might also account for the pull to the right because of a slight pressure bias in the unit. I'm just guessing because of past experience with my friend's 75 Blazer which did the same thing and a gearbox change cured it. He changed the gearbox on a guess, but it worked and he was told by someone that was the reason it had that symptom. IDK if that was true or not, but changing the gearbox worked in his case.

 

Ok does the jeep need to be jacked up to check for play or no? Also should there be ZERO play when I check?

Assuming no play, how do I know the pump needs replacing? No sound from what I recall.

 

No need to jack up the Jeep. The Jeep needs to be on the ground, on a smooth, level surface. Take precautions when under the Jeep while it is running. Chuck the rear wheels, make sure Jeep is in park, make sure the person turning the steering wheel back and forth knows not to put it in D while you are under the Jeep looking at things. You want to look for play at all the joints and connections in the suspension, steering parts. When the Jeep is off, you can also grab and pull all the different bars to see how solid they are.

As for how to check the steering pump, I have no idea. I have had 2 fail on me. They gave warning they were dying, though. Like one would not engage right away in cold weather starts. Another started by getting heavy to steer.

 

Thanks OldTires. Got a recommendation on steering pump brands? oem/mopar or just the trash at auto stores good enough? Something off amazon maybe? Here is one from amazon: https://smile.amazon.com/ECCPP-20-38...03/dp/B07K1STN

Oh, and if I slap a new one in, how do I bleed the air out of it?

 

Stay away from Amazon and Ebay for parts, just because who knows what you are getting. If you want to roll the dice on cheap parts, try RA. If you want more accountability go with AZ or Napa. At least you can return it if it does not work.

You definitely want to drain the old fluid out of the gearbox before installing the new pump because the old fluid is probably old and dirty, and it may have metal particles from the old pump that will kill the new pump.

Do a google search on how to flush the steering fluid from an XJ. And then do a search on how to install a new pump. You will get plenty of videos.

But like Dave said above, it may be the gearbox too. Hopefully it is the pump, cause changing the gearbox is a major PITA, with reman boxes that sucks right out of the box.

 

How would the gearbox be acting if that was the problem?

 

It could be the gears are actually binding because of worn ball races or misalignment between the worn and sector. Also the pulling to one side may be because of fluid leaking from one side of the assist piston to the other. That's what happened with my brother's Blazer. With my GMC truck, I hit a rock with the pitman arm and shattered some of the ***** so it was clicking, popping, and sticking every time you turned the wheel.

On some power steering pumps, the pressure hose screws into a fitting where it comes out of the pump. That fitting is actually a pressure control valve and that could be faulty. If you have to replace the steering box, I'd look into using a Dodge Durango steering box. It's slightly bigger but it mounts the same.

 

To see if the gearbox is pulling on its own, on a flat surface, make sure the front wheels are pointing straight. Put the Jeep in Park and turn it off. Chuck the rear wheels, apply the parking brake. Now jack the front up a little so the front wheels are not touching the ground. Kneel down and look at the pitman arm, and have someone else turn on the Jeep. Make sure the person turning on the Jeep does not move the steering wheel. If the gearbox is pulling, you will see the pitman arm move on its own out of the center position. You can also see if it moves after you turn the wheels at different positions.

I had one reman gearbox that would pull on its own. I would move it to the center, and it would slowly move off center. When I took it out, if I rotated the output shaft by hand, it would always push in the opposite direction at a certain point for a second. It was making my steering very jerky.

But before you go messing with the pump and gearbox, make sure none of the other suspension parts are the issue. Make sure the wheels turn freely, by jacking up the wheels off the ground and manually turning the wheels side to side. You should be able to move them with no issue. Check the wheel hubs too. The wheels should spin freely and if you shake the wheels there should be no play. The pump and gearbox are a PITA to change and get right, so you don't want to replace them only to find out that was not it.

As always, use precautions and be safe.

 

The pump is a PITA to change? Seems like you just unbolt and slap the new one in, short of putting the vacuum back on it which I dont know how to do.
I know her suspension is a little rough shape, so that might be part of it.
Yesterday I took it out cold (hot day though) and first 5-10 min I had to crank decently hard to get it to turn, but it got better as I drove more.

 

What vacuum are you talking about?

 

Ok so here is an update. Got under the jeep and pulled on all the parts and they all feel secure though some of the grease joints look rough. Had her start it up, and when you turn the wheel you hear a pretty decent whine...I tracked it down to the pump itself. Acting like its under pretty intense load. Fired my jeep up and substantially more quiet and easy to move. (Should these make ANY noise?). So I am guessing its the pump? How hard is this, is there anything special or crazy I have to do to get the vacuum established?

 

I was reading something about how you need to put a vacuum back into the line, is this not the case? How do I get the air out, or will it work itself out?
Also do I need a tension pulley system tool kit, or will just my regular tools work?

 

There's no vacuum involved with power steering. The hardest part about changing the pump is getting the pulley off and back on. The air will work itself out if you turn the wheels lock-to-lock a few times after you get it running, then top off the reservoir. You need a special puller to do it right, but you can probably rent one at Autozone or other parts suppliers. Make sure the pulley is located on the shaft exactly the same way it was on the old one to maintain belt alignment. I believe the pulley should be exactly flush with the end of the shaft.