Hey guys, I am a proud owner of the 6th vehicle I haven't ****ed up yet. A 1996 Jeep Cherokee sport, dark metallic green, 5 speed. It currently is my daily and only car.

I have OCD when it comes to old vehicles, I want to restore whichever unfortunate car that lands my way. But Im poor and can't really afford to restore a damn thing. So, for now I'm looking for cost effective ways to keep rust at bay and remove as much as I can without going broke. Currently I am brushing old conventional motor oil on whatever is rusted, as well as scraping off any undercoating that has become weak and has let moisture in. Anyone have any other cheap, effective methods?

 

While it might not be a super cheap solution... many will swear by using Fluid Film. Good stuff.

 

Congratulations on a jeep ownership!

You ask an extremely complex question, because the answer depends on a huge host of variables.
Rust arrest varies depending on degree of rust, and where it is at, and how much total rust the car has. Photos will do wonders in you getting the most useful replies. Please post photos of rust areas of concern. Photos will expose these variables!

Also, is this a salted road driven, or salty beach car? can car be stored under cover of garage or carport?

Some rust can be stopped, not removed and monitored for many years, successfully. Some other rust may need a more complete repair a.s.a.p. in order to prevent very expensive damage. Now some rust can grow hidden from view, getting worse and worse$$$$$ even with oil treatments, fluid films, and a boat load of hope.. That is the type that needs more aggressive action than periodic oil and monitoring.

Some cars however, specifically salt area cars may have lots of hidden rust all over. The floors, frame, fenders, wheel wells, doors, hoods, truck, etc... for that kind of car, you need to look careful, as that one little bubble of the paint on the door bottom may actually be a sign that the whole door lower skin is failing from rust thru from inside, and in the folded lower seam$$$$$$$. if it is a salt car, well it wont be just one door, rather all doors will likely be rusting from the inside, and the frame, and the floors, etc... a little time bomb of rust, that kind of car is usually not worth the money to fix right. sure fix the doors, $$$$ but next year it will be the frame, then the hood, then the trunk, etc.... an endless money pit. So on that car you do minimal to arrest the rust, sheet metal screws and metal from an old stop sign with a slathering of roofing tar to "fix" the big hole in the floor, aluminum tape to stop the rusted windshield frame from leaking in the rain, etc.....and drive till it falls apart as it will cost more in parts much less labor to make right. cheaper to fly to California and buy a rust free car and drive it home kind of thing

So please send photos, and let us know if this is a salt exposed car or not?

Good Luck

 

PS According to the state of California, used motor oil causes cancer. Just so you know 😣😁🤣😣🤔🤗🙂

 

According to the state of California, walking causes cancer and so does sitting in a car.

 

California IS cancer. Get out now.

Depending on the location and severity of the rust, it could be too late to do anything about it. Rust leads to rot, and no amount of Fluid Film will help. Only fix for rot is to remove and replace. But surface rust is easy to deal with. Sand or wirebrush it as best you can to get the loose stuff off, and hit it with self etching primer, and paint. The rust will come back eventually, but taking care of that stuff now will help. If the panels are pitted, do the same. If the paint is lifting and the panel is coming apart in layers, thats a another story. Rust can get expensive, fast. Do what you can.

Like said, send photos.

 

any car part I get that originates in CA (and maybe elsewhere in USA), states it may cause cancer ( such as a track rod) lol

as to the PO rust, we need pics!

used motor and trans oil mixed together and sprayed will certainly prevent rust, and is vey cheap, but its environmentally unsound, and a bit stinky

 

Sorry for taking so long on these pictures, life gets busy.
Anyway these pictures are of the worst sections, the sheet metal overtop the rear driver side leafspring mount is just as bad up front, the center section is okay for the most part. Ive started to remove a bunch of **** the previous owner sprayed on (whatever that hasn't hardened) and its really starting to show just how bad it is. Thankfully the frame rails are good.

This is why bedliner and painting over rust is never a good idea, sure you won't deal with it when you sell the ****ing thing. But still, the old man's son who did this can **** himself.


Front passenger floor pan

Floor pan to firewall

 

Not sure if anyone added this yet. Still new to navigating the site. I'm a jeep junkie. I own 4xjs and a parts xj. Anyways, very important that you check the seal on the windshield. If you can't afford the new seal professionally throw some silicone right at the top of the A pillar outside the windshield. Water gets in there and rust builds throughout the car. Water finds its way. Good luck.

 

Watch Mustie1 on youtube, he uses winter grade chain saw oil mixed with a thinning liquid and sprays it on underside of his cars. this leaves sticky film that creeps into hard to get to places.
I use Fluid film on my wife's Cherokee and it seems to work in Saskatchewan where they love road salt.

 

I'll check him out too, so far I've been using used 10w-40 and off-road Diesel. Seems to become kinda tacky over night and has so far prevented any further scaling. Idk why the east coast has such a fetish for this ****, I remember out west being far more efficient with plowing and rarely used salt.