Might not be a bad idea to pull some plugs. (after that run). See if one is black.

That could isolate it from all getting rich commands, or to one or more injectors screwing up.

I'm new with fuel injection. Just a thought.

Pete, can he just unplug the IAT, and the CTS, and see how that goes?

And Rob..PLEASE check the 5V to that +++++++ MAP.

 

Yep, at this point, it randomly runs pig rich when it's warm/hot associated with no throttle response (hesitation)..

Yep, I had the PVC tube handy, and the injectors were clicking away.

 

Hard to see for sure in the photo, but the MAP line runs downhill to the TB with no low spots?

Pull the hose off the MAP or squeeze it closed when it acts up and see if it gets worse or stays the same!!

 

We were typing at close to the same time!! Yeah, unplug a sensor and see what happens. Start with the MAP.

How's the harness clip at the MAP? All of mine are cracked and I had to jury-rig them.

 

Yep, I just bought plastic tubing today and cut it to fit to where there are no bends or low spots..

WIll do, I'll check for the 5v and pull the MAP line off tomorrow when it's acting up and see what's up.. Thanks Pete

 

The harness clip looks good.. no cracks in good shape.

 

Will that 5v test tell me whether I need to do the bypass, that looks daunting!

 

You do realize you absolutely NEED to solve this Rob. The earths orbit will go out of kilter, and ash will rain from the sky if you don't.

Fine and good for an hour, then pig rich/bad idle. Had you turned it off? (off heat migrates to make some places hotter than they are while it's running)

C-101. When it screws up, turn it off, pull that and stick it back, then try it.

 

Oh, absolutely.. I'm not one to give up and as frustrating as it is.. I'm a car guy and I love it! I'm a meat and potato's car guy when it comes to mechanics, but a car guy none the less. I really appreciate you guys and I hope that others will learn by our trouble shooting.... I did not turn it off before it started acting up, it was at idle and did it on it's own.. After it started acting up, THEN I shut it down.. 10 seconds later I tried to start it and it was dumping fuel. I held my foot to the floor to cut fuel off and it fired up.

 

Naw...that's a one minute test of the ECU feed to the MAP. unlikely a problem, just a supper easy thing to rule out.

The CPS/c-1o1 bypass DOES look look like a bit of work. Instead, if I had one I might just eliminate it. A great soldering lesson. If you guys actually chopped that out, slid one or two sizes of shrink tubing to the side, soldered them all, (color coded you know), and made it neat, the rest of any soldering you do for the rest of your lives will seem relatively easy.

For me the booger there is in line/straight line, it's tough to twist the copper to hold straight while I let the solder run clean through and around.

Well, that and finding the soldering gun.

 

Only the ground for the MAP goes through the C101. The other two go right to the ECU.

Red w/tracer is 5V supply to the MAP , violet is output to ECU, and brown w/tracer is ground.

CPS bypass is what I was referring to as just being a good idea in general. It's easy. I think Flintstone could probably even do it.

 

Remember, I COULD find Arizona, if I needed to!

 

Violet w/tracer at B2 and White w/tracer at B3 in the C101 are the CPS wires.

 

Not if you needed something off that work table before you left on the trip.

 

Did you get the photo of the wiring diagram I sent you by email earlier?