krazynezz

Replacing both the rear main seal and oil filter adapter, having issues with both lol. Top piece of rear main is stuck, it won't budge at all.

Oil filter adapter, according to this write up, https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/oi...o-ring-127359/ the hole he is putting the t60 into, mine isn't a torx, inside that hole on mine it is similar to a socket in shape but only half of one.

Just looking for some tips or hints. Basically i can't remove the adapter due to not knowing what tool i need, and can't slide the upper half of the rear main seal out.

Programbo

Long story short..I tried EVERYTHING that was suggested to get my oil filter adapter off and finally gave up and took the Sawz-All to it. I cut across where the red line is in the first photo which cut the head off the bolt holding the adapter to the engine. Once the head of the bolt is gone the whole adapter easily slides off the remainder of the bolt and without the tension of the adapter on it the bolt shaft pretty much unscrews with your fingers. I then just gut a replacement adapter/bolt off a Grand Cherokee in the junkyard which is easy since they have about 6 inches of room to play with.

RatchetMaster10

Mine was a royal p.i.t.a. too. I ended up using a air hammer with a chisel bit to loosing it and tighten it.

OleBlue

Use a small brass punch to tap the upper half of the seal out, have someone turn the crank with a wrench slowly as you do it. They can be a *****! also, disconnect your batt before turning the crank lol.

krazynezz

Turning the crank also help with install?
I just might have to cut my adapter also. You just cut the head if right? Not actually part of the housing like your picture shows with the red line?

Bbasso

don't cut anything!
I didn't have to...
here are some pics of mine: https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/i-b...1/#post2007313

RatchetMaster10

If you can, use a chisel and hammer and try and get it to spin

OleBlue

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/o...r-help-464868/

sounds like the older ones are 9/16 hex

cruiser54

Yes they are. And they're nowhere near as tight as the later ones. I don't think they used LocTite back then either.

krazynezz

I've run into so many paired bolts that one was torqued differently than the other is not even funny.

Thank you oleblue and cruiser for the advice on the 9/16 hex.i will search around ( probably have to buy one) and see if that works

krazynezz

Been wondering, why brass fir the punch? Finally found one but why not steel or anything else?

RatchetMaster10

Brass is a little softer, you'll have less risk of damage

krazynezz

That's what i was thinking but wasn't sure. 9/16 did the trick on the adapter and the punch worked wonders. Had to grind it down, smallest i could find was a 1/4 inch...

krazynezz

Pretty sure i got it all done right ( all being rear main, oil pan and filter adapter) how long would it take for leaks to start popping up, specifically for the rear main? If something isn't seated right would it start leaking immediately or could it take some time? First time doing it so I'm confident in my work but still slightly unsure lol.

cruiser54

I can see the beads of sweat on your forehead from here. Go drive it!!