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Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
Hey all - trying to troubleshoot my 95. I was working on a door lock issue yesterday and I needed to lower the back window to reach two things at once. And now because it's been 24 hours I can't remember exactly how it went down, but I THINK I couldn't lower the window from the driver door (had been working fine) so I lowered it from the back door switch. Now, it won't go up with either switch. All other windows are working normally.
When I push the back door switch down, I can hear a soft click from inside (kind of like it knows the switch is being pushed but doesn't do anything because the window is already down) but zero when I press it up.
One of the idiot POs thought it was a wrangler and took the doors off, so I spent a great deal of time getting everything working on the doors again. I replaced all of the wires that are typically cracked where the driver door wiring goes into the kick panel and just now replaced some shady, corroded crimp connects in same place in the rear door, but the issue is the same.
I know I might need to repair/replace the driver door switch assembly, but the fact that I get that soft "click" when I put the rear switch down gives me hope. Can I test the motor (or at least get the window up) by putting 12 volts to these contacts in the window motor plug? And swap them if nothing happens?
It works applying voltage with a Powerprobe, so it should but you need to provide ground as well.
Motor works directional- apply voltage to one side makes it go up, other side makes it go down.
I had that happen, managed to close it by switching the wires - but no nearer actually fixing it. There's a good vid on this on Project Dan H - but this was one of the times he was just too clever for me.
What happens if you lift the window with your hand and actuate the switch to the UP position?
Does the window go up? If it does, leave it up and report back.
Hey all - thanks for the great replies! Sorry, been working nonstop since I wrote this so no time to tinker. Just tried to raise the window by hand while pushing the switch up and it does NOT want to budge...should the next step be to try to power the two contacts on the motor?
So I discovered that when you remove the plug on the window motor, the two male contacts are the right size to slip a spade connector on each. So I ran wires from them to the battery, and as soon as I got the polarity right, the window went right up. So the motor is good!
I've read that all of the signals for the window switches run through the switch panel on the driver door, so I found this AWESOME video and followed it:
Basically, the driver door switches get the most use of any, and every time a switch is used, the little spark of electricity over and over and over eventually causes dirty buildup on the contact - I don't understand the specifics and it doesn't matter. BUT - the whole assembly is really well made and not difficult to take apart. You can take the individual contacts out and use a file to clean them off:
Before:
After:
That's what causes these switches to go "bad", so PLEASE don't spend $140+ on a new switch assembly unless something is literally broken - just spend 30 minutes taking it apart, cleaning it, and putting it back together. Now everything works like a charm!!
Protip: If you spend 20+ minutes trying to get the front door panel back on when usually it takes you 30 seconds, just stop and put it down because you're trying to put the rear one on the front door which does NOT work.
So I discovered that when you remove the plug on the window motor, the two male contacts are the right size to slip a spade connector on each. So I ran wires from them to the battery, and as soon as I got the polarity right, the window went right up. So the motor is good!
I've read that all of the signals for the window switches run through the switch panel on the driver door, so I found this AWESOME video and followed it:
Basically, the driver door switches get the most use of any, and every time a switch is used, the little spark of electricity over and over and over eventually causes dirty buildup on the contact - I don't understand the specifics and it doesn't matter. BUT - the whole assembly is really well made and not difficult to take apart. You can take the individual contacts out and use a file to clean them off:
Before:
After:
Spoiler
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That's what causes these switches to go "bad", so PLEASE don't spend $140+ on a new switch assembly unless something is literally broken - just spend 30 minutes taking it apart, cleaning it, and putting it back together. Now everything works like a charm!!
Protip: If you spend 20+ minutes trying to get the front door panel back on when usually it takes you 30 seconds, just stop and put it down because you're trying to put the rear one on the front door which does NOT work.
Thanks for all the great help!
Thank you so much for the video.
Last edited by LeightonDuffy; 04-22-2024 at 05:06 AM.
I have the self same problem but while, logically, the driver's master switch gets most use, I'm not sure that's true in a vehicle that often carries rear seat passengers. Of course that might explain why neither switch will raise the window - but it doesn't explain why only a rear window has failed when, surely, it is the driver's window that gets most exercise.
Oh, & I can't see the video, looks like it may no longer be available, could you post a link.
03-23-2024, 05:46 PM
Rear driver power window goes down but not up
