Looking for a reasonably clear picture of the heater control valve on a closed-loop Renix 4.0. My 89 just gained a new heater core and I'd like to plumb it in. I have a new (3-port) heater control valve but I'm struggling to find a clear pic of how it's oriented. Having never played with a cooling loop before I'd expect the valve to be on the hot side, but looking at the piping diameter I'm guessing it's on the cold side.

Anyone got a nice close up shot that shows the valve orientation and a nice wide shot showing the overall hose setup?

I've searched several times, but I'm still scratching my head and want to have this straight before I start pulling hoses.

 

Found this diagram a while ago: https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/hos...-anyone-75856/
Combine that w/ vacuum diagram, should be good to go.

 

The three port was used on 4 cylinder models and the 2 port on 4.0s IIRC.

Use the diagram below and just eliminate that plastic piece of junk. Plug the vacuum line to it with a screw.

 

Not sure if I'm describing the number of ports right -- I mean it literally has three pipe openings. It's also all metal, ostensibly NOS. Figured I could put this in and if it gives me trouble I'd have a nice spot to cut out the valve section and install a manual summer/winter handle.

 

I believe that's for the 4 cylinder.

You don't need one anyway. The heat is controlled by a blend door under the dash.

 

Yeah, I have a matching one with four ports Think I'm probably just going to go the big just-in-case manual handle route once I get to reassembling it all. I can see how the blend door shields the core but wouldn't mind having a shutoff option for the 100F days.

 

Save yourself the trouble. This guy here in Prescott, ARIZONA is the guy running NO heater control valves. Just sayin'.

 

OK, I can't argue with that

 

Looks JUST like mine on my 1989 4L .... oh, but mine is painted black?

...wait, ok the nipple near the valve, is plastic on mine, but it may be after-market??
I wouldn't remove it, besides you'd still have to build a pipe T.

 

If u eliminate the heater control valve and use a closed manual valve, u also have eliminated the "coolant bypass loop". The bypass loop allows coolant to circulate thru the head and block the moment the motor is started. Eliminating/closing the bypass loop is not a good idea. Allowing stagnant coolant to "sit" uncirculated in that new heater core is probably not a good idea either.