Pic of heater control valve install on closed loop 4.0?
09-29-2013, 12:10 AM
#1
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Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Pic of heater control valve install on closed loop 4.0?
Looking for a reasonably clear picture of the heater control valve on a closed-loop Renix 4.0. My 89 just gained a new heater core and I'd like to plumb it in. I have a new (3-port) heater control valve but I'm struggling to find a clear pic of how it's oriented. Having never played with a cooling loop before I'd expect the valve to be on the hot side, but looking at the piping diameter I'm guessing it's on the cold side.
Anyone got a nice close up shot that shows the valve orientation and a nice wide shot showing the overall hose setup?
I've searched several times, but I'm still scratching my head and want to have this straight before I start pulling hoses.
Anyone got a nice close up shot that shows the valve orientation and a nice wide shot showing the overall hose setup?
I've searched several times, but I'm still scratching my head and want to have this straight before I start pulling hoses.
09-29-2013, 01:06 AM
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Year: 1988
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Engine: 4.0L I-6
Looking for a reasonably clear picture of the heater control valve on a closed-loop Renix 4.0. My 89 just gained a new heater core and I'd like to plumb it in. I have a new (3-port) heater control valve but I'm struggling to find a clear pic of how it's oriented. Having never played with a cooling loop before I'd expect the valve to be on the hot side, but looking at the piping diameter I'm guessing it's on the cold side.
Anyone got a nice close up shot that shows the valve orientation and a nice wide shot showing the overall hose setup?
I've searched several times, but I'm still scratching my head and want to have this straight before I start pulling hoses.
Anyone got a nice close up shot that shows the valve orientation and a nice wide shot showing the overall hose setup?
I've searched several times, but I'm still scratching my head and want to have this straight before I start pulling hoses.
Combine that w/ vacuum diagram, should be good to go.
09-29-2013, 07:28 AM
#3
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Year: 1990
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Engine: 4.0
The three port was used on 4 cylinder models and the 2 port on 4.0s IIRC.
Use the diagram below and just eliminate that plastic piece of junk. Plug the vacuum line to it with a screw.
Use the diagram below and just eliminate that plastic piece of junk. Plug the vacuum line to it with a screw.
09-29-2013, 09:27 AM
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09-29-2013, 11:46 AM
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I believe that's for the 4 cylinder.
You don't need one anyway. The heat is controlled by a blend door under the dash.
You don't need one anyway. The heat is controlled by a blend door under the dash.
09-29-2013, 09:36 PM
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Think I'm probably just going to go the big just-in-case manual handle route once I get to reassembling it all. I can see how the blend door shields the core but wouldn't mind having a shutoff option for the 100F days.
09-29-2013, 09:40 PM
#7
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Save yourself the trouble. This guy here in Prescott, ARIZONA is the guy running NO heater control valves. Just sayin'.
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09-30-2013, 09:04 AM
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05-05-2014, 05:18 PM
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Not sure if I'm describing the number of ports right -- I mean it literally has three pipe openings. It's also all metal, ostensibly NOS. Figured I could put this in and if it gives me trouble I'd have a nice spot to cut out the valve section and install a manual summer/winter handle.
...wait, ok the nipple near the valve, is plastic on mine, but it may be after-market??
I wouldn't remove it, besides you'd still have to build a pipe T.
Last edited by RacerX; 09-10-2014 at 08:45 PM. Reason: correction
05-05-2014, 05:48 PM
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If u eliminate the heater control valve and use a closed manual valve, u also have eliminated the "coolant bypass loop". The bypass loop allows coolant to circulate thru the head and block the moment the motor is started. Eliminating/closing the bypass loop is not a good idea. Allowing stagnant coolant to "sit" uncirculated in that new heater core is probably not a good idea either.
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