hose diagrams needed- anyone?
#1
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hose diagrams needed- anyone?
I have a 1988 Jeep cherokee Pioneer with a 4.0 in-line six. The heater hoses are all screwed up and I need a diagram of the proper hose structures.... any help would be great.
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moeintaheri34 (04-11-2022)
#5
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the problem is that someone( presumably the previous owner) jury-rigged the hoses and now Im getting oil into my air filter. i know that they substituted the wrong hose and now i dont know how to set it up correctly
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#8
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ok thats progress already! thank you so much- now can you help ,e figure out how to set them up correctly? someone used a heater hose as a substitute which obviously is wrong. my air filter is soaked in oil now
#9
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Location: Grand Rapids, MI
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Green = your CCV valves with their corresponding hoses (orange). Bottom hose in picture goes to your airbox, top one in picture goes to a nipple on your intake manifold. Make sure you have both valves, too. The one on the bottom should have a wide opening, the one on top should have a smaller (metered) opening. They look similarity but it is actually two different part numbers. Fixing these hoses/valves will probably cure your oil-in-air filter problems...this is happening due to engine blowby not being circulated properly and finding its way into your intake.
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
You can go to the dealership for these parts, or check EBay.
FIRST you must find out if your valves have the key tabs in them (they are removed from the valve cover by twisting 90 degrees and pulling out...they also have a built in grommet). For this type, see the following link: http://bit.ly/ey1HEE
IF your valves do NOT have the key tabs in them, and use a seperate grommet, see the following link for that kit: http://bit.ly/dIZgTj
FIRST you must find out if your valves have the key tabs in them (they are removed from the valve cover by twisting 90 degrees and pulling out...they also have a built in grommet). For this type, see the following link: http://bit.ly/ey1HEE
IF your valves do NOT have the key tabs in them, and use a seperate grommet, see the following link for that kit: http://bit.ly/dIZgTj
#12
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can I run another problem by you? my radiator keeps over heating and boiling out the coolant onto the ground.... it has a plastic reservoir and a plastic cap mounted on the passenger side right below the windshield. the thermostat is only about a year old. i am currently going through about three gallons of coolant a month because of this problem...... any advice or idea's?
#14
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
You have the closed cooling system, you have to be particularity careful about air pockets within the system. Your first troubleshooting task should be to "burp" your cooling system:
Taken from another post:
Originally Posted by BlueXJ:
You need to burp a closed system a little differently than a open system.
first place the rear end higher than the front. (ramps work great)
Second remove the coolant sensor on the rear of the head.
Third fill the system until coolant comes out of the place on the top of the head where you removed the sensor.
Lastly replace the sensor and fill your expansion tank to the full line (not to the top)
You have successfully burped a Renix system.
Alternatively, you can also drill two holes in your actual thermostat to help with future air pocket issues. Taken from the same thread:Drill two small holes (1/16" or so) in the flange on either side of the poppet valve 180* apart.
Install thermostat with one hole at 12:00 and the other at 6:00
Stop worrying - the system will now purge itself of air. The air behind the thermostat will escape the 12:00 hole (displaced by water through the 6:00 hole) and will travel up the heater hose at the thermostat housing until it gets to the volume tank. Problem solved!
If problems consist, consider replacing the radiator or converting to the open system. EDIT: Link to thread: Here.
Taken from another post:
Originally Posted by BlueXJ:
You need to burp a closed system a little differently than a open system.
first place the rear end higher than the front. (ramps work great)
Second remove the coolant sensor on the rear of the head.
Third fill the system until coolant comes out of the place on the top of the head where you removed the sensor.
Lastly replace the sensor and fill your expansion tank to the full line (not to the top)
You have successfully burped a Renix system.
Alternatively, you can also drill two holes in your actual thermostat to help with future air pocket issues. Taken from the same thread:Drill two small holes (1/16" or so) in the flange on either side of the poppet valve 180* apart.
Install thermostat with one hole at 12:00 and the other at 6:00
Stop worrying - the system will now purge itself of air. The air behind the thermostat will escape the 12:00 hole (displaced by water through the 6:00 hole) and will travel up the heater hose at the thermostat housing until it gets to the volume tank. Problem solved!
If problems consist, consider replacing the radiator or converting to the open system. EDIT: Link to thread: Here.
Last edited by billfrank85; 02-04-2011 at 01:36 AM.
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