I would try the 2x4 and hammer. If the pan starts to dent, you can take a putty knife and a hammer and tap it between the block and pan.
As for the brake line replacement, just cut the tubing close to the flare nut then use a 6 point socket to remove. If it's distorted now you may have to hammer the socket on, unscrew, then use a drift punch or bolt to remove flare nut from socket.

 

Any auto parts store should carry 3/16 and 1/4 inch replacement brake line. It comes in various lengths and has the flare nuts and flared ends ready to bend and install. Don't forget to get brake fluid for bleeding.

 

So...the oil pan wont budge. I hit it with a hammer and nothin.

 

Looks like you need to find something thin to get between the pan and the block and tap it with a hammer. The pan gasket glued itself to the block(heat and pressure will do that). If you go in on a corner, it may help.

 

I did with a putty knife and a flat blade screwdriver. All this managed to do was start bending the lip of the pan downwards.

 

Sounds like it's really glued on there! Ok, you'll have to keep the putty knife flat and just keep working your way around the pan. Hammer it in then pull it out, move over the width of the blade and do it again and again until it comes loose. By the way, my nephew looks like he could your brother. They say that everybody has a look-a-like somewhere. You may weigh a little less though. He's a big guy also.

 

I know that it is a very tight space to work...but...maybe a razor blade or box-cutter can cut the old gasket.

Also...multiple putty knives and screwdrivers might slowly widen an opening once it is started.

Keep with it...you will get it...worst case...a new oil pan is about 50 bucks on RockAuto (+ 20 bucks for shipping).

 

Are you sure that you removed ALL the bolts? I just dropped my pan, and missed a couple. The pan wouldn't drop, started looking a little harder, and found them. When all were out, the pan came out with no problems....RR

 

Do you know exactly how many there are? I didnt see any other bolts. Another person didnt see any who also tried to help me remove it. Got em all in my magnetic pan.

 

Here ya go:

 

Thanks Cruiser, I'm saving that pic, I may need it when I put mine back together. I think I know where they all go back,'but now I'll have it. The two back bolts, by the transmission, had something blocking the heads. Didn't feel like silicone, it was very hard. I was able to break it off in chunks just to get to the heads......RR

 

Good post cruiser. Thank you very much. My putty knife broke. Im going to go buy another one. Should i get a flexible one or a stiff one? http://www.homedepot.com/p/Clauss-Ac...8811/203805511 I was looking at this one. Its titanium so hopefully stronger than the steel one i had its also got the flat end i could use to tap it in. What do you think?

Oh and as for the brake lines i used vice grips and was able to salvage the flare nuts. I didnt want to replace the hard lines since they were nearly perfect. My brake fluid was almost black. Luckily i have a metering block on this jeep so i can bleed the fronts and not worry so much about the rears for the time being.

Let me know what you guys think about that putty knife or any other tips and tricks to get this gasket destroyed. Thanks for stickin with me folks.

 

Ok! So i counted 28 holes on that picture and counted 28 bolts in my pan so im good there. The haynes manual said remove the starter and the steering damper. Is this necessary for the pan to drop? I did not remove either yet.

 

Maybe for clearance once the pan is loose.

 

I would guess any putty knife is probably just fine...would guess that if the gasket is that badly stuck, you will need to be doing a LOT of scraping once the pan is finally off. Don't know if they are convenient near you, but Harbor Freight has really cheap tools. I usually consider putty knives kinda "disposable" and get that sort of stuff there. This one is $1.49. So you can get four of those for the price of the Home Depot one.