If you have some kerosene it is a better option. It is less flammable (still flammable but less prone to "flashing" like gasoline is) and will penetrate better.

 

http://www.zorotools.com/g/00052181/k-G2564475?utm_source=google_shopping&utm_medium=cpc &utm_campaign=Google_Shopping_Feed&kw={keyword}&gc lid=COii6eb3pr0CFWdk7AodwiMAKg

you need one of these on a 90 degree die grinder, they work wonders removing gaskets and won't hurt the mating surface of the gasket.

Probably not RTV, permatex makes "the right stuff" it comes in a tube like calk, it works wonders for differentials and oil pans.

as for taking them off, you get a prybar between the pan and gasket and just tap all the way around the oil pan until it starts to come loose. takes a little bit but it works.

also, you've got the oil pump out of it, why not put a new one in?

 

Crimmy, I'm glad your hangin in there with this project. I think you inspire some of the readers with keep-on-keeping-on. Have you tried a stiff rotory wire brush that goes in the end of a drill?

 

I do not own a drill. I know a very basic tool but ive been aquiring tools as my jeep needs them =P I do have an air compressor however so that idea is possible. I found one for 15-20 dollars at harbor freight. But i dont see the 3m roloc discs at harbor freight or lowes or home depot. What kind of bits do i need for a die grinder? Can you guys help me look for it on harbor freight?

 

Ok! So is this ok? http://www.harborfreight.com/complet...kit-43029.html

With this. http://www.harborfreight.com/1-4-qua...der-52848.html

Will that get this gasket off without hurting my block?

 

Yes and yes and yes. Just work slow and when you start to see bare metal, you know it's working...,RR

 

Ill have to work slow. =P Only have a 1 gallon campbell hausfeld air compressor. Gonna be letting it refill every 10 seconds.

 

Crimmy, you may not be happy with the lack of power using the air compressor and die grinder, not to mention the amount of waiting for your pressure to build. I think you would be a lot happier with the constant power of a drill or hand held grinder. The 4 1/2 in. hand grinder along with a twisted wire cup wheel is awsome at removing crap without hurting the metal it's stuck to. Harbor Frieght #60625 or #69645 ($14.99) and #47926 ($3.99) should do the trick. If you can borrow a hand drill, get wire set #60475 ($3.00) This sould get into some areas that the hand held grinder may not fit.

 

Another late night update. I was feelin kinda down in the dumps and figured beating on my jeep would make me feel better. So i worked on my track bar. Took some pounding to get the axle side nut loose. It looks like the bushing in that part was starting to wear oddly and even some parts looked kinda melted.




And then the frame mount side was even weirder. Underneathe the grease cap theres what is reminiscent of cat feces. Something a mix of rust and grease it looks like. Im going to scrape as much of that out as i can and then grease that joint up really well. One of just many bushings and ball joints that will eventually get replaced.

In this picture if you look on the floor thats part of the rtv that came off of my oil pan. it was at the front of the engine. The rest all appears to be jb weld or something. Those pics are coming in the next post.

I took a torch too it and it was kinda scary at first. But i noticed if i held the torch in one spot on the metal insert then rubber would start spewing out around the sides and then eventually dropped out. I got the 2 metal inserts and 2 rubber parts out. Now im going to get my dremel and cut the 3rd metal ring out so that i can fit the new bushing in. =)

 

Oh a question. is that ball joint end is that bolt part supposed to move around or is it supposed to be stationary?

 

Got it out! No small feat though. Wish i wouldve had a hack saw or something like that. Wouldve made life much easier.

I screwed up pretty bad too.

Cut into the track bar itself without realizing it. My idea originally was to create a score about 75 percent of the way through and then smack it with a hammer and a flat blade and cause the metal to break apart but i didnt get it deep enough underneathe that bent metal so i cut more and went a bit too far. I sanded it down to at least try and remove any burrs but it will eventually destroy that bushing. This should hopefully be a good temporary solution.


And here are pictures of the gasket on the block. It seems that some of it is rtv and that some of it is jb weld.

 

Small update. Spent another 4 hours at work on the oil pan. Dumped hot water with dawn into the oil pan and scrubbed and scrubbed. The hot water and the dawn soaked into the gasket material i noticed and it made it come off a bit easier. I used a razor knife to shave off layers until it was close down to the bare metal and then i wet sanded the rest off.

Theres 3 significant dents in the lip of the pan. Any ideas on how to bang them flat guys? If im lucky someone will come pick me up today. Im going to try and find a corded drill and get a cheapo wire brush and wire wheel pack for the drill from harbor freight so that i can get to work on the block.

 

Picked up a corded drill for 20 bucks and a few wire brushes for it. It is working! Its slow going and i need to take frequent brakes. Arms keep going jelly like on me after a few mins of trying to keep the drill in place. The back half of the block is going to be a challenge. I dont fit under the jeep so well and its jacked up as high as my jack stands go but ill figure something out. Im so excited that this is moving forward!

 

Proud of you buddy.

 

Me, too. Way to stick with it.

Ever pondered what you could do with that drill and brushes to that butthead who installed the pan last??