Yesterday, I noticed a wet spot under my jeep, in a parking lot... didn't think anything of it. This evening, I was driving and noticed that my oil pressure gauge (I rebuilt the motor back in September, so I have a bit of an OCD about keeping an eye on my gauges as often as I can think about it) was staying consistently around 20 psi, never going up anywhere near 40, when accelerating. I stopped and looked underneath, only to find an oil saturation on the starter, oil pan and in the area under, near the oil filter and adapter. I hope and pray it's nothing more than a loose connection or simple gasket replacement issue. the filter was snug and I checked the oil and it seemed to be in an ideal spot on the stick. Anyone else ever have this happen? What were your findings?

 

Did u replace the oil filter adapter o rings & valve cover gasket when u did the engine rebuild?

 

Yes... the only thing on the motor that isn't new, is the oil pressure switch.

 

Ya, those things go bad and leak over time. My oil pressure switch was bad and was leaking oil out of the connection to the plug. Swapped it out and problem solved

 

Try and fix it quickly or you will have starter failure will it being oil coated, #1 cause of them failing.

 

Thanks for the replies... turns out, it was the oil pressure switch. Now, I just need to rebuild the transmission, install the lift and rims/tires and she'll be as good as new... minus a paint job.

 

Why does your trans need rebuilding?

 

When I bought the jeep, the whole thing was marked like it was built out of junkyard parts. The "mechanic" I bought it from isn't someone that I would ever recommend to anyone. I have been doing a lot of work to it, to make everything ri,,g,, ,ht. With that said, I don't know how many miles are on it and it feels even worse ever since I rebuilt the motor.A

 

I recently installed a high-end brake controller as I am now pulling a trailer with brakes.

My stock volt gauge would normally read 14 volts for the first few minutes after start up then drop to 12 volts a few miles down the road.

My brake controller has diagnostics built in, one thing it does is display volts, controller is wired separate from any of the truck's wiring.
Brake controller displays volt reading, volt reading is continuous and constant and is reading consistently 13.9-14.2 volts at all times.

Moral of the story- if you want accurate readings...........do not trust stock gauges.

 

Feels worse? Have you adjusted the TV cable or changed fluid?

 

Yes and yes.

 

So, what is it doing?

 

The stock gauges haven't failed me yet, they have kept me out of trouble so far. I rely on them more faithfully than the idiot light gauge cluster. I'll be adding a trans temp gauge though.

 

Slipping.

 

Dump the ATF+4 the previous "mechanic" almost undoubtedly filled it with, refill with Dex III/Merc and see if that fixes it.