I have no question, just a rant.
So we all watched the Youtubes on how to take off your cherokee's NSS, right? Just loosen the big nut, put a screwdriver back there and tug, right?
HA!!Double HA! HAHAHAHAHAHA! And you thought you were gonna just clean yours? HAHAHAH!
IDK if its just because mine is up here in the road salt sub zero rust belt all it's life but, heads up, mine broke off in pieces over the last 2 days on my back in the cold garage.
The final step .... removing the piece of it that was permanently bonded to the shaft. You see, the outer chunk of aluminum came off with a chisel, not so bad. But the last 7/16" chunk surrounding the base of the shaft, close to the transmission, was a bear and a half.
2 trips to harbor freight for various pry bars,..no joy.
Ended up drilling it with the side of a long drill bit, flake by shiny flake, until most of it was gone, then a few more taps with the chisel and it finally popped off. Gawd awful. Everything is in the way, transmission lines, muffler pipe, and filler tube.
Now the new one doesn't want to just pop on either, so no illusions about that. But it will after I sand and take off the edges and a few burrs.
Mind you I'm no novice, no amount of heat (and you really don't want alot of heat because who only knows what you might be doing inside that transmission) or prying or anything else short of all out combat would do it. 2 days and counting.
But it just had to get done, the starting was more and more unreliable, would jiggle and jiggle for 10 mins before it would start.
Oh new one was cheap these things used to be $400 at the parts store, probly to discourage you from doing it at all.
But now they are dumping them on amazon etc for under 40 bux
I get a feeling that this NSS would have defeated my tool.
So I have been meaning to ask about that tool.
So how does it work. Getting one.
I noticed an order this printed button but noticed I have to install an app.
Noticed I could download it but is it alright to get it printed?
My neighbor has a 3D Printer so....
Then is there like specs on material to use to print it?
When it comes to XJ jobs that are on youtube, there are some that are actually pretty easy but that people make seem hard. Then there are others that everyone wants to make look easy, but can be a real pain. I put a stuck NSS into that second category.
I rarely let anyone work on my XJ, but replacing the NSS was one that I gave to my local shop (tech was an XJ owner as well, so I knew he would be familiar with the NSS and the various tricks to get it out).
When it comes to XJ jobs that are on youtube, there are some that are actually pretty easy but that people make seem hard. Then there are others that everyone wants to make look easy, but can be a real pain. I put a stuck NSS into that second category.
I rarely let anyone work on my XJ, but replacing the NSS was one that I gave to my local shop (tech was an XJ owner as well, so I knew he would be familiar with the NSS and the various tricks to get it out).
I've been VERY FORTUNITE with my '96 in that I've had no major problems with disassembling or replacing various parts. That includes the complete suspension system,NSS,a rear disc swap,cooling system rebuild,and most recently the oil filter adapter O-rings. So far I've only had it to a front end shop after I dislocated the front diff trashing a LCA w/bracket and bending the bracket on an upper one. I may have either a slight rear main leak or oil pan gasket leak. If so and when/if it comes time to do a repair I'll probably let a friend who has a shop do it. A lift would be NICE.
Well it's in. My Goodness that was difficult. Although I admit that was not some of the verbage I used.
So the new one is apparently machined so tight that you not only have to line it up perfectly with the shaft, but then drive it on perfectly straight. I threaded the new nut on and used a foot long piece of 3/4 plywood to drive it,, tapping with a hammer. Still took 2 hours. But all good, everything works like a champ instantly.
That is, if you don't count the transmission line,.. which now leaks at the plastic fitting at the transmission, because I had to bend it out of the way slightly. Day 4 is in sight.
Anyone know a quick fix on that? Can I just try bending it back around somehow and see if it stops?
That is why I use anti-sieze on almost every automotive part I ever install, unless thread locker is specified...sometimes, I ignore the thread lock specification, and use anti-sieze anyway, such as XJ rear spring bolts
(heads are marked so I can see if they ever move...they havent)
And now, the exciting conclusion to our story. Went to repair the busted transmission line and determined that the nss was still not seated the last 1/4 inch or so, I threaded the big nut back out to the end and a few taps with a hammer and punch carefully seated it. Whew. Set the adjuster 12mm bolt to where the old one was,, as visible on the old switch. Reverse lights worked right where they should and it spun right up in Park, all good. Tightened the big nut to what I guessed was the obligitory 21 ft lbs.
I then bought a transmission line at Advanced using the online discount for $12, it was the wrong line (regular line is $40 for one) but all I wanted was the part that goes in the quick disconnect at the tranny. Cut that off with a few inches of the preformed tube too, and used about 8 inches of 3/8 fuel line and 4 worm clamps to splice it to the old line. Next replaced the quick disconnect with a Dorman for $7. No leaks,
The story you have just heard is true. The names were changed to protect the innocent.
The NSS really needs to slide on easily and not require hammering to install. If it's not free to move when you tighten down the bolt that keeps it from rotating, it can bind or even break the NSS. The big nut gets tightened last, until after adjusting and tightening that hold-down bolt. I had someone complain that it was really hard to shift after doing the NSS - sure enough it was bound up and loosening the big nut let things settle in correctly.
The NSS really needs to slide on easily and not require hammering to install. If it's not free to move when you tighten down the bolt that keeps it from rotating, it can bind or even break the NSS. The big nut gets tightened last, until after adjusting and tightening that hold-down bolt. I had someone complain that it was really hard to shift after doing the NSS - sure enough it was bound up and loosening the big nut let things settle in correctly.
Please don’t misunderstand me because I mean no disrespect, you are full of baloney. While in an ideal world that may be true, as the title implies this 22 year old xj was not easy, and hammer and chisel was required for both removal and installation. As to the adjustment, I did not encounter this problem you describe, but have heard of it.
