jtippett10

First time poster on the forum. I have however used the posts here to do a few projects to my XJ. Here is my story....1998 jeep xj 145k miles. Few months ago, xj started slipping out of gear and grinding while I was driving. It would slip back in after I let off the accelerator, and it wouldnt happen again for a day or two. I lived like this for a few weeks, but then it got worse, and I took it to the nearest shop. They drove it, made it make the sound, got under it, drained the transfer case, and showed it to me. There was plastic pieces just falling out of the T-case, and they quoted me $2,400 for a replacement. I figured I could just find a junkyard t-case, but that didnt happen. rebuilt np242's were over a grand, so I decided to do the t-case rebuild myself. I got the t-case off and on my work bench and took it apart. here are the problems I have found.
1. found the mode shift fork to be ground down to a stub on one side due to the plastic pads being desinigrated (bought replacement for $50)
2. the T-case lacked the seal plug underneath the linkage (making it easy to remove the forks, which I had read was supposed to be a PITA)

and now I have a few questions on what parts to replace, and how to reinstall everything.

Question 1. How can I replace or repair the "roll pin" and the seal plug that is missing, and is it necessary?
Question 2. How do I reinstall the forks so that the shifter rooster tail is in the correct position?

CCKen

Reassembling the 242 TC can be tricky, as you can see.

If you get a Factory Service Manual it will show you enough details to answer your questions, and then some.

Try downloading a FSM from Pacific Coast Manuals. It's close to $8.00 for the download (pdf). Just Google Pacific Coast Manuals and open their website. Directions are easy to follow to get to your Jeep.

If you don't have a credit card to use you may be SOL.

Parts catalogs can be viewed on Morris 4x4 website - free.

I'm in the process of rebuilding my 2nd 242J and would be lost without my FSM.

JeepMN

Is there a difference between NP242 and NP242J? Or does the J just stand for Jeep?

CCKen

Jeep.

jtippett10

I got a FSM from pacific coast manuals, and it will be useful in my re-assembly of the t-case, but I am still at a loss as for what to do about that roll pin that was missing in my t-case. Does it need to be replaced and sealed up? Does anybody have a part number or picture of what I should put in there? I dont have the original for comparing. thanks for the quick replies though.

CCKen

The roll pin part number is 1664355, and the rubber plug is part number 0015105.

That pin is required to hold the low range fork to the shift rail.

Once you have the low range fork installed to the shift selector, insert the shift rail with the hole in it down, then look through the hole in the TC case and align the shift rail hole with the hole in the low range fork. Using a pencil type magnet held to one end of the pin, push it into the hole in the low range fork as far as you can, then using a 3/16" pin punch, drive it in, but be careful not to go too far with it, nor have it sticking out of the low range fork to far.

Insert the rubber plug.

I made a pin from a 3/16" x 1" roll pin from Lowes. I used a dremel cutoff wheel to cut it down to 3/4". 1" ws too long.

Good luck.

Edit: I should have mentioned this above but you probably know already, that the main shaft and mode fork assembly has to be installed before installing the shift rail. Also, you'll need to temporarily install the range lever on the sector shaft so that you can use it to move the shift sector so you can see the hole in the low range fork.

jtippett10

OK, CCKen, I was able to get the transfer case all back together, except for the oil slinger/dust shield. What is the best way to get this thing installed? It is a tight fit, and I dont want to just hammer it on and find that I gotta take it off later. Is there a trick I need to know? a special tool? or do I have the wrong size slinger? thanks for your previous info, it was a life saver.

CCKen

Hope you don't have an aftermarket slinger, like a Crown product from Morris 4x4. It won't work. You'll need an OEM slinger from the dealer, part number 4798119 (new part number 5016615AA).

Even the OEM slingers need some adjustment. The inside diameter of the slinger is irregular and will need to be trued up. If you place the slinger on the splined end of the output shaft and it slides down freely, you're okay. If it hangs up on the very front of the splines you'll need to sand the inside diameter so it will slide over the splines. I use a small three stone hone, like a brake cylinder hone, to true it up so it slides on the splines.

The splined end of the output shaft is smaller in diameter than the boss on the shaft that the seal and the slinger seats on so you'll need to heat the slinger so it expands prior to install. Your choice: Either boil the slinger in a pan of water to get it up to around 200*F or used a heat gun to heat it up. It has to get too hot to handle, so you'll need gloves to handle it.

Slide the heated slinger over the splines until it bottoms out, then place the ghetto tool (see pic) on the slinger, flange end against the slinger, then using a piece of wood over the end of the tool, drive the slinger home with a hammer.

Ghetto Slinger Installation Tool:

1.5" Diameter, 6" long sink drain tube from Lowes, Home Depot, etc.

jtippett10

I was able to get the slinger all the way down the splined shaft, but I cannot seem to get it over the bottom of the shaft and seated onto the tail cone over the seal. I am going to try heating it up like you suggested today when I get home. I am curious....is this a step of the rebuild that is usually easy? why is there no information on this step of the rebuild? I found a plethora of information on how to do this rebuild of the transfer case, but some steps that I had problems with were not mentioned in most write ups. Just wondering if it was my bad luck or my lack of knowledge. thanks

CCKen

Ya, you'll have to heat it up and use that tube to drive it over the hump.

Make sure you have the snap ring on the shaft and the washer on top of it. This is what the slinger bottoms out on.

As you've seen, there's lots of little tricks required to get the job done that are not in the book, or that folks don't bother to mention in their youtubes or forum threads.

CCKen

Here's a pic of the setup to install the slinger. The block of wood is to pound on with a hammer so you won't destroy the tube.

CCKen

You may want to consider replacing the 10 MM internal hex drain/refill plugs with hex head plugs. See pic. They work very well.

jtippett10

OK, I got it! I used a PVC pipe I had laying around from some awful plumbing repair I had to do, and that worked to drive the damn slinger into place. Now I just gotta get this beast back on. Once I have it all put together, should the rear shaft spin easily? Mine will move, but it takes some work to move it.

CCKen

It will be stiff from all the new seals that you installed. If you shift to neutral it will get a little easier to turn, but that's neither here nor there.

After you get it installed, I recommend that you drive it awhile to heat the TC up, which will melt the vasoline you used to hold the needle bearings in place (and in other places). The melted vasoline will become part of the ATF you serviced and should be drained away.