Aw ****, I thought you had a "no start". Have you tried cycling the key a few times, on a couple secs, off, then on...., until the fuel pressure is up? (mine, I stop hearing the pump run on the second or third time). There is a check valve in the fuel pump that can fail. Also fuel leaking past an injector (or anywhere), can let pressure drop. Could be while you are cranking it those times you are just priming it.

I guess it should not drop more than 20Lbs in 1/2 an Hr, if I remember right.

 

Gotta hit about 300 RPM before ECU gives fire and fuel.

Sounds like you may also have a fuel priming/injector leakdown problem if you 've got to go through that, Lowes..

 

I removed the American auto CPS. Drilled out the original one a little more.
I now have 0.4Vac. I dealing with very marginal voltage. I'm getting closer.
I guess I could always drill out a little more.

 

I have tried cycling the key a few times. "to prime it" It still has to crank and crank to start.

 

I will check the pressure again at the rail. I will do no power, 12v on, then cranking.

 

Any improvement with .4 vs .2 AC volts?

 

Tonight I removed the CPS. I took a side cutting bit and made the hole just a little bit bigger. It now is at first crank 0.4 then flutters at 0.5.
I guess by making the hole a little bigger at a time I was able increase the voltage just a little.
I did run a #4 ground wire from the engine manifold bolt attaching it to the body ground above the rear of the engine. (I kept the old braded line attached as the engine ground lug would nut budge)
I thought an extra ground couldn't hurt.
It does start a little better. I guess the Renix is a love hate relationship.
I believe I may need to run the old girl a little. Let it get up to operating temps then check the voltage again in a few days.

 

Hey Cruiser, 300..thanks again.


""Around 10 when cycling fuel pump
Fuel rail reads close to 40 PSI when cranking.
The fuel gauge reads full all the time.
( I need to check the ground for the fuel pump)
I am now suspecting something in the fuel line /pump
Like if it sits over a period of time it doesn't hold enough pressure? Bleeding off overnight? ""

Your book probably has it but this attachment (if it works), talks about pinching the return line for a sec to bump it up to 95, and ALSO watching bleed down from there. (You turn it off right away when it goes high). The idea being that you can tell weather it's leaking at the regulator or the check valve by how it drops from the higher pressure.

EDIT; well no attachment. One page-23 MB? Pdf didn't go. 0frustrating)

 

The cable is a good idea. Did you scrape the paint off the firewall before attaching it? There's 2 coats of paint on that firewall.

Renix works fine if you do the basic ground refreshing, add some ground wires, C101 cleaning, sensor ground checking, ICU/Coil refreshing, and connector/relay refreshing right off the bat and get it all behind you.

How big are the holes in your CPS now? .5 to start and rising from there would be even better......

 

Yeah I scrapped the paint away, then wire brush to make in shiny.
My fear now is my bolt heads are looking bad. I may need to find some new bolts before I proceed further. I may order a premium CPS and drill it out once a I find some new bolts.
10 times of removing the CPS sure takes a toll on the head of the bolt.