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no power to obd port

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Old 10-25-2014, 08:21 PM
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Default no power to obd port

I tried researching but everything that I found on this subject leads to people having a bad fuse. Well I tried to get my codes read at auto zone and there is no power in my obd port. I have checked all fuses one by one and all are good. What else could be the problem. My plates expire in 6 days and I can't get new ones until I pass emissions which I obviously can't do since the station can't hook up to my obd.
Old 10-25-2014, 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by helmut
I tried researching but everything that I found on this subject leads to people having a bad fuse. Well I tried to get my codes read at auto zone and there is no power in my obd port. I have checked all fuses one by one and all are good. What else could be the problem. My plates expire in 6 days and I can't get new ones until I pass emissions which I obviously can't do since the station can't hook up to my obd.
Have you verified power to the connector? Sometimes those wires and the pins they are connected to get loose. Hook up a meter to the power pin and try pushing in from the back and see if you get an intermittent...
Old 10-25-2014, 09:57 PM
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Originally Posted by roninofako
Have you verified power to the connector? Sometimes those wires and the pins they are connected to get loose. Hook up a meter to the power pin and try pushing in from the back and see if you get an intermittent...
I will do that tomorrow I guess. I just wanted to know if there might be something else to look at before I start monkeying around with wires . thanks
Old 10-26-2014, 12:11 AM
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Maybe try different store ?
Old 10-26-2014, 06:50 AM
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Originally Posted by helmut
I tried researching but everything that I found on this subject leads to people having a bad fuse. Well I tried to get my codes read at auto zone and there is no power in my obd port. I have checked all fuses one by one and all are good. What else could be the problem. My plates expire in 6 days and I can't get new ones until I pass emissions which I obviously can't do since the station can't hook up to my obd.
The fuse that feeds the DLC also feeds the headlamps. So if you have headlamps the fuse should be okay.

The grounds (2 each) for the DLC are at the oil dipstick tube mount bracket.

Did you test for power at the DLC using a voltmeter?
Old 10-26-2014, 07:13 AM
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Here's a schematic of the CCD Bus that includes the DLC pinout.

Note that pin cavity 16 is power (12 VDC) and pin cavities 4 and 5 are the grounds.

Pin cavities 6 and 7 are the SCI interface for the scan tool.

Examine the pin cavities in the DLC closely for corrosion and bing enlarged from people shoving meter probes in them. One should only touch the pin cavities when using a meter. You can't meter anything from the SCI pin cavities.

I had corrosion in my pin cavity 16 at one time. I used a round tooth pick dipped in White Vinegar to remove the corrosion then flushed it with CRC Electronic Cleaner.

freegdr is right, after checking your DLC, try a different store/different scan tool.



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Old 10-26-2014, 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by CCKen
The fuse that feeds the DLC also feeds the headlamps. So if you have headlamps the fuse should be okay.

The grounds (2 each) for the DLC are at the oil dipstick tube mount bracket.

Did you test for power at the DLC using a voltmeter?
Now that's info. My oil dipstick tube is not bolted to the side. I broke it long ago and just slid the new one in.
Old 10-26-2014, 09:22 AM
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I just looked at it . that ground is completely loose. I will get it bolted tight later and get it rescanned. Hopefully that's the issue. Thanks.
Old 10-26-2014, 09:24 AM
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Originally Posted by freegdr
Maybe try different store ?
Thanks. But I tried the store and I was turned down by emission station too for no connection.
Old 10-26-2014, 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by helmut
Now that's info. My oil dipstick tube is not bolted to the side. I broke it long ago and just slid the new one in.
That's where the DLC gounds attach (see pic). If you broke the stud off where are these grounds attached now? If nowhere, you can unwrap the wires and see if they reach one of the rocker cover studs/bolts.

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Old 10-26-2014, 09:31 AM
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Here's a better view of G102. The pic is of the Trans/NSS connectors but G102 shows up.

It looks like you could reach the rocker cover if need be.


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Old 10-26-2014, 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by CCKen
Here's a better view of G102. The pic is of the Trans/NSS connectors but G102 shows up.

It looks like you could reach the rocker cover if need be.


Yeah that's the stud exactly. Its not broken. I just remembered about it because the bracket for the dipstick that it attaches to is broken. The ground wire is completely loose probably from me trying to loosen the bracket before I just decided to brake it off. And then I never retightened it. Or something like that. It was long time ago. I just looked at it now and the ground wire is completely loose. I hope that's the problem. Thanks
Old 10-26-2014, 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by helmut
Yeah that's the stud exactly. Its not broken. I just remembered about it because the bracket for the dipstick that it attaches to is broken. The ground wire is completely loose probably from me trying to loosen the bracket before I just decided to brake it off. And then I never retightened it. Or something like that. It was long time ago. I just looked at it now and the ground wire is completely loose. I hope that's the problem. Thanks
After you secure the wires, check for voltage at the DLC using pin cavity 16 (+) and Pin cavities 4 and 5 (-), then let us know what you get.
Old 10-26-2014, 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by CCKen
Here's a schematic of the CCD Bus that includes the DLC pinout.

Note that pin cavity 16 is power (12 VDC) and pin cavities 4 and 5 are the grounds.

Pin cavities 6 and 7 are the SCI interface for the scan tool.

Examine the pin cavities in the DLC closely for corrosion and bing enlarged from people shoving meter probes in them. One should only touch the pin cavities when using a meter. You can't meter anything from the SCI pin cavities.

I had corrosion in my pin cavity 16 at one time. I used a round tooth pick dipped in White Vinegar to remove the corrosion then flushed it with CRC Electronic Cleaner.

freegdr is right, after checking your DLC, try a different store/different scan tool.



So, ya douched out the 16 cavity?
Old 10-26-2014, 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
So, ya douched out the 16 cavity?


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